543 stroker kit update

Some people asked me to do a little progress update on the 543 stroker build from 440 Source. I have made a bit of progress with my limited time and thought I'd put together a video series showing what you get in the kit and walk through the build highlighting the differences between a stock style rebuild and stuffing a 4.5" crank in there.

At the present, I've fit the rotating assembly, torn it back down, ground the block for clearance, and gave it a good cleaning.

My Edelbrock heads went out for porting in January and I'm expecting them back soon. The custom cam is here (thanks Dewayne). I'm waiting on a few more parts to get here before I can start final assembly.

Looking good.

That was cool.

nice video feets !

I used to think my kids were weird for watching unboxing videos and it just hit me I'm doing the exact same thing, albeit with much more expensive toys. lol

This is great stuff.

Are your videos going to cover installation into the car too?

The idea is to cover things that change when building a stroker. I've got it going back together now. The video showing the block work has been done and needs editing.

I plan on continuing the videos through engine dyno testing and some after it is installed.

Good job.

I'd be interested to know what the as-delivered wrist pin clearance is, if you have a minute.


This is done very roughly, but maybe it will help later:
https://youtu.be/7gAK3LaDfAc

A wee bit late.

I've hung the pistons already. The pins were fit very nicely on the pistons, naturally. Rods were a bit tight. I made a flap wheel from a 1/4" rod and 2000 grit paper and eased them out to size.

Some spirolox dropped right in. Others put up a fight.

I don't believe I'da said that out loud...

Kevin

It's not a big deal, assuming you're talking about the rods.
The pins would start going inon one side of the rod but would not pass through. I took a 1/4" rod and slit the end with a Dremel. A little piece of 2000 grit microfine paper was put into the slot and I chucked the rod in my mill.
I spun the 2000 grit at 1500 rpm and used it to ease a .0001" or two out of the rod. It is a very low pressure operation with a very slow material removal rate. The pins now fit the rods perfectly.

Each rod had a tight side. It is surely a result of them pressing in the bronze bushing.

That’s a nice review👍

Looking good feets. Will be a fun assembly and build to observe.

Thanks for taking time to document and post it.

Wow. Appreciate the honest response. I hope it works out and you have a good engine.

Seems like it would be really difficult to get the bores straight but maybe just taking your time,having a good feel for it, measuring and not cutting too much material would do it.

Knowing you have all that and more going on, I'm sure it will be fine.

Me, I have always paid a professional for pin fit, since most everywhere I work with has a Sunnen rod hone and they can do a good job for not much cost to get it corrected.
On the handful I have had done, they have usually start out either interference fit like yours was, or the parts will just slip together
and "seem okay" but end up with inadequate clearance when measured.



Good luck with the beast.

Just finished up the videos, some good info in there on the kits. I did not know that the pistons are not a zero deck style for the application in a 440

Were you able to manage fitting an internal pickup? Or are you forced to external?

Eagle rods were the same, I don't think they are using a mandrel and temperature difference to put the bushings in. In the field on compressor jobs,we use a mandrel and hammer to put brass bushings in aluminum rods, I just warm the rod end and tap them in and I don't get the one tight side phenomena the eagles had, which was a very thin ridge of material on one side. I just used a swivel pipe reamer to knock the thin ridge down and it was good after that.