Any Ford Mechanics here?

I have a 2014 E250, small V8 which is having a non starting issue. Everything electrical works normally and when you turn the key, nothing. It has about 140k miles and is having a non start issue. I've changed the starter an battery, thinking it was the usual suspects. After some further online research, found it could be the ignition switch, ignition key cylinder, or nylon sleeves on the transmission range selector. So I replaced all these items as well. After no luck, had it towed to a mechanic. They cleaned some relay in the box in the engine compartment and it started up. This was just a few months ago. Well, it is acting up again. I am not sure which relay was "cleaned" , as they thought it is a ground issue; also said it might have something to do with a "smart box" (but didn't mess with it after it started a number of times after the relay cleaning).

Has anyone seen this issue on Fords and know what the solution is? Otherwise, I am going to be towed back to the mechanic again.

Thanks

Look for a starter relay in the fuse center. If there is one it will be marked on the fuse cover. Or try finding it on line. This might help. https://www.bing.com/search?q=2014+...hBox&FORM=IENTTR&conversationid=

Security key? any security codes,check with scanner.

Ill check for that relay in the fuse area. This van has the actual big relay integrated in the starter, not one on the side of the fenderwell like a lot of Fords have/had.

I don't have a security key, when I replaced the ignition cylinder the locksmith asked the same question. It ran fine was it came back from the shop the first time and this was after I already changed the lock cylinder. There isn't anything special about the key either. I don't have a check engine light on but I can check with a scanner.

No codes on the scanner...

I've swapped relays around and checked the fuses, still no start....

Start at the starter and work backwards with a VOM to locate the issue... since this is
a no crank problem you should have another person to hold the key in the crank position

Has anyone checked the starter ?

I have a '93 Nissan Pathfinder, currently 210K on it. At around 200K, its original starter finally gave up.
Miserable job w/o a lift, so had my mechanic replace it, and he uses NAPA.
1st NAPA replacement failed in a few weeks (wouldn't hot start/re-start).
2nd NAPA replacement is now failing, same deal - fine cold, but hot days or conditions, NG.
Every relay, cable, ground, switch, charging component & battery is known good.

i just [FINALLY !] repaired a no-start issue, but it was on a diesel tractor.
as mr. P said, start at the starter & work backwards.
i did that, but for the life of me, couldn't figure out what was going on. i didn't want to shotgun new, expensive parts on it, just to still have the same problem.
i THOUGHT i had found the item that was causing the problem, but i really didn't want to spend a BUNCH of bucks on it to find out i still had the problem.
i was SUPER LUCKY to have a member here guide me through the convoluted maze of safety switches incorporated in this particular wiring harness, to end up at the ignition switch.
it ended up being a cheap repair, and i was [as was my buddy that owned the tractor !] truly GRATEFUL for this fellow member's help !

i'm by no means suggesting your problem is a bad ignition switch, rather you need to trace the problem from the source [the starter] to where the solution lies.

hope your luck is as good as mine was !

By some chance is there an aftermarket remote start system installed on it?

Ill get back on it tomorrow.... I will check the starter with a hot wire to the solenoid. I'll look to see if there is a safety switch on the transmission and if there is, Ill check to see if it is aligned and then I will clean the plug (saw these things on youtube).

No aftermarket starting, alarms, no aftermarket anything. I also do not have a factory remote starting either. The ignition key is just that, a key...I do have a fob that just locks and unlocks the doors or I believe sets of the alarm if pressed.

I do appreciate the help!

Update..... I checked the starter by running a wire to the relay from the battery, the starter turns over. So I then checked out the neutral safety switch on the transmission. Just looking at it I am thinking this is part of the problem. I tried to take it off the transmission and was unable to remove the main nut that holds it onto the shaft of the transmission, so it is soaking in WD40.

I might have also broke something..while I was trying to get the nut off using a socket, the shaft turned (while it was supposed to be in PARK) and now using the gear selector in the cabin, it won't return back to PARK. The plastic end of the selector cable was broken in two, leaving a very weird angle between the end on the shaft and where the cable is held prior to exiting the sleeve". I think the pivot ends have rusted up causing it not to be able to turn, therefore breaking the plastic tube that runs over the cable to the metal end. I am hoping that a new selector cable will allow it to work properly again, so I ordered one.

I am fairly certain that since things are crusty under there that the neutral safety switch is not aligning correctly to allow it to start. I am sure I will need a new one so I have that on order as well.

keep us updated as to your progress.

If the mechanic fixed it before in the electrical distribution box, I would start back there. Since you've already cleaned the starter relay there is also the start diode in that same box to be checked. Doesn't take much corrosion on these small connections to upset current flow. When cycling the key, you should be able to hear/feel that starter relay cycling. With suspected neutral safety switch, I would attempt to start it with the shift lever in every position. I agree with MR. P on using a voltmeter/ohmmeter. A little troubleshooting would have saved you a few hundred in parts so far. If you have a meter then we can definitely go into more depth on testing.

Thanks for the input, Doggs, I moved around a bunch of the relays in the distribution block. I took a look at them as well before reinstalling them in the different positions. I saw a small amount of corrosion on one and I used some sand paper to clean it up, which I put that one in at the wipers location. I did pull the bigger relay on the side of the box and it looked OK.

I've tried to start it in every gear location and still didn't get it to fire. With the shift cable now "messed up", I can get it to go from PARK to DRIVE, but cannot go back to PARK unless I get underneath and move the lever by hand. I am going to spray the nut again with some more WD40 that the shaft that goes in the transmission through the neutral safety switch. Until I get that nut off, I can't get the neutral safety switch off. I even tried to remove the plug briefly but couldn't get a good angle on it. It is pretty crusty there so I am hoping that the oil will get it to unstick.

If I can get the plug of the safety switch, once the new one arrives, I can plug that one into the connector and see if it starts. If not, then Ill go back to the relays. I do have a voltmeter. I didn't know about the neutral safety switch the first time around or I might have saw its condition plus the broken plastic end on the gear selector cable.

I will report back when I get the new parts. Thanks all and keep the ideas coming....

Update on the van. I took it to the shop to have the NSS and new gear selector cable installed. That didn't fix the no start problem but what they found is the start diode actually burned out and messed up some of the fuse box. They are going to remote mount a new diode as they said it would otherwise need a new fusebox, and possibly harness, about $1500 for parts and labor. The remote diode idea is way more budget friendly and will be underneath, so it will still look stock. At least they found the problem and hopefully the thing will actually be usable.