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Aftermarket speaker help.

Posted By: fastmark

Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 02:26 PM

My Son bought a stereo system for his truck and he had some Polk Audio 6x 9” for the door. He installed one and rolled the window up and the gear destroyed this part of the stereo. I assume it’s a resistor. Any one know of a source for this. I can solder a new one back on. It says 0.035??? and then the sticker is messed up. Any thoughts to help out my kid?

Attached picture image.jpg
Posted By: Pacnorthcuda

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 03:25 PM

That looks to be an inductor. AKA, coil / choke. Likely the value is .35mH. Any replacement coil of the same value should function, but you may find a direct Polk Audio replacement. Check eBay.

You can probably just bypass it too, but then you are starting to hack the system....I can’t say how important it is or isn’t.
Posted By: jcc

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 04:52 PM

I agree, if it's a door speaker, and there are other speakers in the system, the item damaged, which if still a useful conductor (still needs to insulated even with electrical tape) can be used, it basically filters out high frequencies, that are reproduced more then likely by other speakers in the system. If its 8ohm speaker, its crossover is in the 3K range. Bypassing it will hurt little, but would degrade the sound quality slightly, and that's very subjective.
Posted By: fastmark

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 05:54 PM

Ok. How about this? Can I wrap the wires back around and twist the ends together? It broke the wires at one spot. Or should I just wrap them around and seal them up with silicon?
Posted By: Sunroofcuda

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 07:02 PM

Go to www.parts-express.com & see if they have a new component. You could also email them a photo of this & they can advise.
Posted By: jcc

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 08:30 PM

Yes IMO, but a solder job would be better. No matter what, you can't hurt anything, unless there is a short in your wiring/repair somewhere
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/27/20 11:17 PM

I think that is a 0.35mH Inductor. Its part of the 2 way Frequency Divider crossover. If bypassed the tweeter may not work or will burn out from too much bass.

$13 from Ebay. They are 0.30mH but I do not think you could hear the difference of 0.005mH......

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Frequency-Divider-Oxygen-Free-Inductor-Crossover-Copper-Coil-0-1-2-0mH-0-35mm-7/333427054738?hash=item4da1cd1892:m:mNjWp1P3H7V87KF3C0jAIhw


You would not believe the CHEAP ones that are inside a set of Bose 601 speakers. I bought 2 sets of top brand inductors and capacitors and replaced them and made them sound much better.
Posted By: jcc

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/28/20 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by Dave_J
Its part of the 2 way Frequency Divider crossover.
.


How exactly do you know that?
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/28/20 06:33 PM

Originally Posted by jcc
Originally Posted by Dave_J
Its part of the 2 way Frequency Divider crossover.
.


How exactly do you know that?


wrench Just a guess that its a 2 way speaker. If its a 3 way it could be for one or the other speaker drivers.

Years of building, up grading or repairing 2 and 3 way speakers. Cross over networks are not rocket science, close, but not. To build one from scratch takes a lot of equipment I do not have. But, if the OP were to make his son pull the other speaker and take a picture that may help. The problem is the damage is just after the 0.35__. It is for a fact an Inductor and they are rated in mH so I must assume it is 0.35mH. It will also have its spec's silkscreened on it, like max volts. A picture of speaker 2's inductor may help.

I have taken so many "Top of the Line" audio equipment apart and replaced a lot of cheap components.

Most cross over networks will:
1. Match the speaker drivers Ohms so the net effect is 4 or 8 Ohms using resistors in series, parallel or series-parallel circuity.
2. Use Inductors and capacitors to change frequencies for each driver. It will have 'Taps' off for each set of drivers, Tweeters, Mid range woofers and Bass woofers. Now days even 'Sub' woofer drivers.



Attached picture 3 way crossover.jpg
Posted By: jcc

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/28/20 09:48 PM

Well it looked to me to be just a simple inductor low pass filter, in the OP's posted pic, I could not make out any evidence of any capacitor (s), and this pictured low pass solution would be fine in a car application with a separately remote mounted HF transducer with its own separate high pass circuitry.
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/28/20 10:46 PM

Originally Posted by jcc
Well it looked to me to be just a simple inductor low pass filter, in the OP's posted pic, I could not make out any evidence of any capacitor (s), and this pictured low pass solution would be fine in a car application with a separately remote mounted HF transducer with its own separate high pass circuitry.


Not sure why you're upset with my reply. shruggy Ether way, after this posting I am done with this post.

I guess with the limited quality of the OP's picture I assumed.... I may be wrong or.....

It is a SIMPLE inductor he shredded. No capacitors shown so not sure if they are there.

What I showed in that diagram was a simple 3 way cross-over network that is VERY common in most speakers but not used on all. They put all that on a very small PC board.

It could be as simple as this 2 way cross-over:

Attached picture 3 way crossover.jpg
Posted By: fastmark

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/31/20 01:54 AM

Well, I spent the day helping out my kid. It was an enjoyable day. We did not order any more speakers. I think Dave is correct. It is a three way front door speaker. It stated .35mh on it I moved the decimal point in the op. I have found a couple of different parts. They are inductors. The local stereo guy said it would burn out the tweeter if we bypassed it. These are listed as 4 ohm speakers but the parts on eBay listed the inductor I saw as a .8 ohm and .40 mh. Would this work?
Posted By: Sniper

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/31/20 02:42 AM

The .8 Ohms has nothing to do with the speaker ohms, it's just the DC resistance of the inductor.

40mH will change the filter frequency response, your ear may or may not be sensitive enough to notice the difference between the fixed and the untouched speakers.

Will it work, yes.
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Aftermarket speaker help. - 05/31/20 04:02 AM

Originally Posted by fastmark
Well, I spent the day helping out my kid. It was an enjoyable day. We did not order any more speakers. I think Dave is correct. It is a three way front door speaker. It stated .35mh on it I moved the decimal point in the op. I have found a couple of different parts. They are inductors. The local stereo guy said it would burn out the tweeter if we bypassed it. These are listed as 4 ohm speakers but the parts on eBay listed the inductor I saw as a .8 ohm and .40 mh. Would this work?


Originally Posted by Sniper
The .8 Ohms has nothing to do with the speaker ohms, it's just the DC resistance of the inductor.

40mH will change the filter frequency response, your ear may or may not be sensitive enough to notice the difference between the fixed and the untouched speakers.

Will it work, yes.


Yes it will work. I have played around with these cross over networks and it takes about 0.20mH change before you notice a slight =/- to the treble. Buy 2 and if it changes the one too much, fix the second one too. I think they come in 5 or 10 pieces to the pack.

My old Kenwood 15 inch 3 ways have a switch for "Soft" "Normal" and "Clear" and all it was is a set of 3 different value Inductors about 0.15 to 0.20 mH apart and I think 0.60mH is the clear. But its been 18 years since I replaced the 15 inch woofers with a 15 inch Sony Xplode Sub Woofer. When the Helicopters fly over in a movie, they shake the neighbors house.

Attached picture Kenwood KL-777.jpg
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