Repo Wire harness vs Original?

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Old wire is just that old wire. If all the connectors are good and clean, that is half the battle. Most harnesses have a few toasted wires that need repair. If they are not too bad, they can be fixed. I have repaired many. If the bulkhead and fuse blocks are perfect, then you should be ok with a repair job of the melted wires and really clean the terminal ends. If you are not comfortable with that job, then order the new YO and check to make sure all the wires are correct. I check the wire form continuity and make sure they are in the correct places. I checked my buds new superbird harness and it had a wire in the wrong spot. The wipers would not have worked. The only think I do not like about the 70 B body harness is that they only make one for the 70 Charger with the electric headlight motors. The bird did not use that part of the harness so I removed it and change a wire or two to match the original. If your are buying one for your 70 R/T, It will be the same way.

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Hardens has the correct harness for a 70. Even has a version prewired for mopar electronic ignition. Got one for my 68 looks super fit nice and evey thing worked with no mods needed.

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If you have an NOS harness and it's been stored clean and dry it should be just fine, I've never seen a bad one yet and I've been though many of them. M&H is the best harness reproduction wire source there is but they are usually just close, I haven't seen "Perfect" yet and probably never will due to different materials, connectors, wire color, or just added or lacking connections due them typically being patterned from prints rather than modeled from an actual original example.

If the choice were between used original and new M&H I'd go with new, used 40 year old harnesses are time bombs.

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Chassis? Not sure what you are describing?

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I bought a new wiring harness from YO for my 67 GTX Hemi car and the oil pressure switch wire was in the wrong location and the tach wire was the wrong color.

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Right, those are the types of things that they get wrong on occasion,the last 67 harness I ordered had the same issues and also had the wrong color (and shape) fusable link wire and molded tab. How does this happen? Simple, the prints callout a blue wire, but the print doesn't say "with a molded yellow fusable link tab" so they made the entire wire and tab blue, the shape of the tab is square vs round as it molds around the wire (as originals were, once again, print doesn't call that out, nor does it call out what shade of blue the wire is, originals were darker than reproductions,etc. As you said, if you offer an original harness to copy they are willing to help which is huge.

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I guess I should clarify my statement some. I was referring to dash or instrument wiring. Sometimes you can save it. Engine harness is completely different. I always buy new. Rear tail light it the same as a dash harness. Sometimes it is ok.

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I can understand your concern, of all the harnesses the most costly is the under dash. One thing that can make a difference in whether to replace is where the car came from a shore are,ie NJ, and/or if it was previously melted or modified. Even if not we have worked on cars (our own at times and for customers too) and they had hard start problems, burned up turn signal switches, etc.
Turned out the main harness had resistance and corrosion in the wires. Even if you clean the terminals there can be oxidation in the wires that creates resistance and causes heat, burned fuses, and melted wires. For the $500-$600 cost of the main harness it is not worth losing your car to fire. Or, having the car die on a trip due to an old harness.
Just for fun you can strip back one of the wires and see if it is green, if it is chances are the whole harness is a disaster waiting to happen.

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Yep!

To add to that the ammeter wires and bulkhead connectors tend to be the biggest problem areas. As far as corrosion, I agree, upon a quick inspection peeling wire covers back at the ends of a harnesses, condition can be spot checked for corrosion, usually turning dark or green as opposed to a nice bright & healthy copper color. But don't stop there, corrosion often starts further up the wire from the ends and remain hidden until it gets hot from resistance and self destructs.