Fender Scoop Broken Stud Extraction help

So I finally bought my first Daytona after many years of looking and started to take care of a few housekeeping things. While driving, I noticed light coming from the front edge of the scoop thinking the front mounting stud needed tightening. I wish that were the case. I pulled the scoop and found that the front stud is broken. I was able to grab the stud "stub" with vise grips but the stud just spins and doesn't unscrew out like I was hoping. Does the stud have some kind of head or bolt cap that prevents it from unscrewing out? Any recommendations what to do next?
Thanks.

I'm no Daytona expert but I am building a clone. The fender scoops I got from Janak are set up for studs that screw into the scoops. I would guess that if you put a little pull on the stud while you are turning it'll come right out.

if it was mine, i'd cut the stud boss in half around the circumference, and lift it off. see how it's attached. embedded with a disc on the stud? replace the stud, and then epoxy the top half of the stud boss back onto the bottom half. i'd use my dremel tool, with the mini circular saw blade on it. it's already broken off, so you aren't going to lose anything by removing the bottom half.

I have no specific info on Daytonas but would imagine that stud is similar to those used in air grabbers, a-body hood scoops, 71 Challenger R/T 1/4 scoops. Search for “air grabber stud replacement “ and you’ll find some info. I believe they look like this:

Mapp/propane torch and heat the post (not the stud) cherry red then grab the stud with the vise grips. You're painting it right?

Cherry red as first try would be excessive.
Just heat somewhat, twist & pull.
The internal threads are probably shot,
Stud threads are probably corroded also.
Keep the boss intact as much as possible.
Easier to fix the threads, or maybe go oversize,

Lots of good tips here. I thought of drilling small pilot holes around the stud then wiggling the darn thing out. Then epoxy glue in a new stud. But the won't work if there is an embedded head.

You might want to do some more research but from what i can see they look like the stud was molded in to it. If that's the case you need to drill it out and epoxy in a new one. Before you drill a pilot hole level the broken stud with a grinder. You can try to center punch it so it will keep the drill from walking from the center.

Who cares about all this fixing crap, let's see the car!!!!!!!!!

Ron

Again, I'm no Daytona expert but I thought the scoops were plastic on the original street version. If so, I'm not so sure heat is a good thing.

I just learned on another forum that the stud is more like an upside down hex screw with the head cast into the post. Crap, not good. Might have to cut the whole post off to get it out.

Here ya go Ron. Pics are when I picked it up in Hughesville PA.

Up

I am not sure about Daytona scoops but the superbird scoop studs are just plain unplated studs, at least mine was. I just drilled them with progressively larger bits and the heat got most them loose with a final reverse drill bit. A few I used a large soldering iron to get an 1/8" bit real hot to get them out, you will feel the plastic soften a little, then they came right out. My scoops are abs plastic so I bought some abs rod on ebay to replace one broken post and plastic welded that on and threaded it. You wouldn't think plastic would rust that tight
to steel but it sure does with the plain studs they used. If you ever mess with rear wing studs make sure you know what you are doing, 2 on each side have a taper pin in them sideways drilled thru the stud before it is cast, those need the wing jigged up in a Bridgeport to drill out a broken one, one of the so called best body shop heros in my state fkd mine up, after I told him to leave them alone. So arrogant he was.

Floyd, i think the stud you show is what is used.
the "washer head" between the course thread that goes into the stud and the fine thread that is used to retain the scoop[s] is just slightly molded into the scoop stud a tiny bit below the plastic surface, or is slightly exposed, having a few slivers of the plastic stud on the mounting side.
this is how i remember the originals being, when i owned my junkyard from 1972-1984/5.
not daytona or super bird scoops, [we never had any of those, or hemi cars] but super bee scoops, a-body scoops, etc. [there were several in the yard during this time] i would imagine all scoops had the mounting studs this way.

Several years ago I made the mistake of replacing the back light (rear window) in my 66 Coronet. Si,ilar to the OP's saga the original glass was concave and followed the body lines. The new glas was convex and gave the rear winow a bubble top kind of look which made the car look goofy to me. I sold it and found a 4 speed car to build. I'd rather have an original OE beater than an aftermarket laden show poodle for this reason. The cars built off of the reproduxtion parts is a representation of the original. If used as intended most of that stuff will fail.

I

If you can find someone with an induction heat tool, that may work. I would cut a slot in the broken part, heat with the tool and stop before the surrounding material became too soft, just enough to break free and back out with screwdriver.

I bought one off Amazon last year and have used it countless time when usually all hope was lost in getting a bolt out in a tight spot. Just used on someone's license plate screws that were seized (machine screws in a captive nut on the hatch).

I have a knock off amazon one, was cheaper when I bought it. Amazon Inductor Tool

I understand I'm late to the thread but here's what the original superbird scoop hardware looks like. I would say theres nothing really there keeping it in place other than stripped out plastic.

If you wait for the base to turn cherry red, you will melt the whole thing. Those thing are probably made of aluminum or even pot metal, so when heated they don’t change color, they will collapse in a puddle, so be very careful. I will give you a chance in a million they are made of steel.

Oops thought they were made of steel, my bad

Agreed, just years of rust and embedded old Cosmoplast/FRP (fiberglass re-enforced plastic) stuck in the rusted stud threads, if the OP said he could get a set of vise grips on the stud, then there might be enough stud exposed to use a drill, tighten the chuck on the stud, go in reverse and spin/pull at the same time gently/slowly as to not smoke the FRP/plastic, you'll blow the hole out getting the stud out, clean up the hole with a small dremel using a burr to get to some rustfree/clean FRP, then use a bolt 1/4-20 thread, wrap the threads lightly with one wrap of thin white teflon tape, you could use an epoxy/JB Weld/etc, I like to use polyester resin, fill the hole, push in the teflon wrapped bolt, wipe away the excess resin/epoxy/etc, let dry fully, unscrew the bolt, you'll have fresh threads, I always replace/use Stainless 1/4-20 set screws studs and stainless K lock nuts....