Fender tag color don't match car color??

I am working on a 69, 340,4spd swinger, tag says f8, yes it's the original tag, ordered paint. Have dealt with this before where the paint don't match and have to tint or change. This car is clearly f5 under the original window seal and everywhere that hasn't been repainted and is original paint. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks Ryan
Monday or Friday guy making the tag??

Does the fender tag VIN match the body numbers?

Yes sir

I can certainly believe you. My first GTS Dart had some quality control issues of it's own. It was a stripe delete special order car: tx9 on red interior. The front fender emblem on the left side was correct GTS and the right side emblem was Dart.

Interesting,
So then what color do you paint it, the original color on the tag or f5?? Lol, the drivers side has been repainted at some point, it's most def f8 as my new paint I got matches it real close, and is pretty much black and white to matching the rest, but nowhere close to the rest of the car or like I said the original from the factory paint color. Strange....

Anything other than F8...

There have been reports of painters at the factory 'clearing the paint in their guns' from the last car shot just to use it up.

It may be difficult to document though.

Look behind places like the master cylinder / brake booster as the case may be & other areas as well.

F8 is a beautiful color, so is F5.

Bingo...


The world has MORE than enough dark, medium, and light green poly Mopars...

Dare to be different...

Spray it OO...

The last 69 RR I had was a parts car. The tag was red but the car was painted white from the factory. I posted the tag info on here before.

Hmm, so not the 1st time apparently.
I have a factory paint 69 r4 340 swinger, a 69 ev2, 340 swinger, and this 69 green 340 car, what to do..... already have the f8 paint, I think I will just try to tint what I have to match the factory stuff closer.
Barry I have checked all the unpainted factory spots, all looks f5.
I don’t have any of the factory numbers stuff, but I still like to make them how they were if redoing or as close as possible to some extent.

It would be cool to see photos of the areas you found if you can?

We all love seeing the oddball factory stuff.

Barry,
I have never spent the time to figure out how on my apple products.....
Or I would

Dang.

It would be awesome to get photos before the paint covers the details up.

I have a bunch of pics and will take more, and try one of these days to make it happen. I’m just doing the motor compartment, rf fender, and the trunk lid for now, I have an app driving to hot august nights this summer, if I paint the whole thing I will never make it lol.

If you are talking about capturing and sending pics on an iPhone - take the pictures then send them to yourself via email then open on your computer then save then upload to moparts. Or use your USB - attach the phone to your computer.

Todays paint mixes will not match perfectly. It's takes a good paint mixer to get it right. The paint stores have spectrometer cameras
that can in your case take a pic of areas on your car that still have the original paint and come up with a mixing formula. The camera only needs at least the size of the coin of a quarter to take a pic.
Also, request the mixer do a "spray out" on some cards to see how it compares to the original paint spot. You may need to pay a little extra for this but it's well worth it.
Also, what plays into the game here is adjusting the spray gun that will be used to spray the car. Adjusting fan width, air pressures, distances of gun to paint surface, speed of gun movement. All the above will affect
how dark or light the paint will come out.
I just had this issue recently when I had to match an imron paint color
because no one sells imron anymore. I did a very good match with an Omni single stage. I tuned my Binks spray gun to those adjustments stated above. About 30 to 45 minutes of trial and error I got the paint looking like the imron color.

I agree they do not match, I have had the camera deal done also, had basically the same results on another car, not matching, at the mercy of the mixer in that situation, that place is a joke tho lol, We have done some spray out of this color I'm dealing with now, going to mess with it more, as well as order some f5 to check against.

Here is something to think about.
Back in 1969, how accurate did the color come out when the car was painted at the factory?
I bet if you lined up a few of the cars next to each other, that were freshly painted at the factory with that color some would look lighter or darker. Maybe there were variations in hues from car to car with just that one color. Maybe, the batch of paint was running out and more had to
be made to finish the rest of the cars that needed that particular color?
Which brings us to the next question; which car had
the correct color match. Probably none of them.
There are so many factors that affect how a color comes out.
Even those paint chips are slightly off from sample to sample.
I'd say if you can get 80 to 90 percent accuracy in you're mix
you are doing good.

Is this the UDF upper door frame paint color that got spread around more? Is the interior green?

Yes, there were variations in color back in the day just as there are variances now. I still recall how some B5s were bluer than others, for example. Ten years ago PR4 red, PS2 silver, and others were all over the place, and we'd tint accordingly from our bank of toners, record & spray out the variation, and keep that data in a notebook for future reference.
Like gasoline, the chemistry has changed in 40-50 years.
Ink-printed color samples differ from actual paint.
Colors vary in different lighting, and almost always at different viewing angles, takes some effort to balance that out.
It's hard to find a painter who truly wants and understands how to nail a color, and some systems are harder to work with than others.
Every once in a while you can start with a more recent color and tint from there.
Plan on taking some time & committing some expense with a talented painter if you want it right.

factory painted cars were very consistent in color when "NEW"

ran into the mistaken (EF8) UDF paint VS. (FF4) exterior paint from a very experienced Chrysler painter

& mistakes happen

how low is the VIN number?

Was T3 interior, which since I don't have any numbers running gear I am changing to black.

I agree, this color has a lot of variances with light, I did borrow my buddies sun gun, as well as had him look at what is going on, he agreed, told me to go through his new stuff and find a color and tint from there, I did find a new color that is way close, and as luck has it is even a Chrysler color. But...... I just want to use my single stage that I got, didn't want base clear on this car as I'm going to use it, don't want it over done. I'm going to order the smallest amount of f5 and see what that looks like, before deciding.

2598xx

Sort of off topic - I was shopping for a new Challenger, and to see some of the obvious mistakes in new paint was pretty wild. Saw a number of b5 Challys where it looks like the painter started the gun right in the middle of the rear qtr panel. Had to see it form the side with diret sunlight on it. man was it ugly, and definitely a new vehicle w/o a repaint. I've had other older Chrysler vehicles with paint drips and sags from the factory or gobs of seam sealer on the lower body just painted right over, or pinholes in the B pillar bondo/lead never filled.

Email the camera photos from your phone to your home email address, then download and save to a file on your PC. You can then post them from home.

Previous owner of my '69 440 M-code Dart GTS (stripe delete) says the paint code is F8......I feel it is F5, (not trying to hijack. Just wondering if the OP's car is similar?)

here's a '69 door with both F5 exterior paint & F8 UDF paint

I have a 68 Charger tag color says TT1 medium green. Tried to match the color and it is definitely FF1 light green. Had FF1 mixed and matches almost perfect. Car has most of its original paint.Checked it against the trunk and jam color.
[img:center]https://imgbox.com/Tl7x2J07[/img]

Thanks for trying to help, but..... my phone is my computer.

I think yours def looks a touch lighter.

Paint the car to match the tag. The F8 and the tag will speak for themselves. If you go with the F5 and ever decide to sell, then the F5 and the "story" might be hard to sell.
F8 is BEAUTIFUL!

Beautiful car, that is my exact car minus the vinyl top and the wheel lip trim.
I am leaning towards painting it per the tag anyhow.

. I agree. Go with what’s on the tag

The RR I bought was painted white with red pinstripes. It was coded on the tag as R4 red. Somebody missed it. Did not have a build sheet. It may have been different.