Epoxy primer Help

Hi Guys,

I have my 69 RR at the blasters. I need some help with which epoxy primer to use. I was going to use the Nason full poxy 491-10 but after reading up on the product I have found that it is a lower line from Dupont. Also they recommend using there Nasson paint with it. Not sure how good that paint quality is. NAPA sells the Nason brand. I want a really good quality product. I also looked at Basf ep 569. Any input would be great. This will be a nut and bolt resto. So I don't mind spending a bit extra.

Omni works great . Its PPG's cheaper line . I've used it for about 6 years.

My car ended up with PPG DP epoxy primer.

A painter I know really likes the SPI epoxy primer along with their clear coat.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I would contact Southern Polyurethane Inc.

Their epoxy primer is awesome.

It block-sands so nicely.

Personally I'd go with the PPG DP Epoxy, I've sprayed Dupont 2K and Chroma P, PPG, and Glasurit paint lines over the DP with no issues...the Nason and Omni lines should be avoided, poor quality performing products

Thanks guys for the quick responses. Any part number on the PPG DP. I have the part number for the SPI brand.

PPG DP should have a number after it like DP90, DP50, ect. The 90 is black and the 50 is light grey. I believe they also make it in white, light blue, light green, and red. The cost should all be the same

Get the tech sheet and read it before using it. There is a 30 minute agitation period before you can spray it.

I wouldn't use omni If it was free, pretty low quality

Ya it looks like cheap sh!t

WOW!

It looks great, I typed that it is low quality, meaning the longevity is not as good as a premium product. A good painter with a proper operating spray gun can get most any paint product to look good.

Question is how long will it last? When do you want to do it again?

This one was done 14 years ago and still looks the same.

I think PPG DP Epoxy line is one of the best on the market. But if you're on a tight budget and want a good Epoxy for cheap find yourself some Commercial Performance Coatings CRE. It's PPG's heavy duty industrial Epoxy. I was told it's a different division of PPG (not automotive) that makes coatings for salt water applications (like sea boats), but they share a lot of the same technology as the Automobile line. And because they don't have the overhead that the Automobile division does they sell the CRE for less. It's about half the price of PPG DP around here. An old PPG rep told me the CRE Epoxy was just the old DP Epoxy formula with Lead still in it, but they have now taken the lead out of it too. Don't use it as a sealer because it's thick like the old DP Epoxy was. And don't think you're going to sand it down very easy. This stuff is like trying to sand a rock. It covers about twice as good any other Epoxy so you'll need to spray faster then you're used to. I use it on bare metal when I want a bullet proof lock to keep rust out. Here's the spec sheet:

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Products/Commercial-Coatings/Commercial-Performance-Coatings

http://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProductCata...49-9D6199CD6DCB

But if I was you I would go with the proven PPG DP Epoxy. It's regarded as one of the top automobile Epoxy's on the market and has a great reputation of holding up well long term. I have only been experimenting with the PPG CRE for about a year and it's really impressing me, but I can not tell you for sure 100% that it's as good or better then PPG DP. However, if it was a price issue (as PPG DP is about $400 a gallon with hardener) I would most certainly go with PPG CRE over the cheaper lines of Nason or Omni. I've shot a lot of PPG Omni line for my sign company and it's okay. There's worse out there, but there's also better.

I agree with CODY. Either PPG DP line or the industrial line if you are on a budget.
I've used the industrial line for OE restoration work, as the products work great to mimick the finish of the original "DIP" procedure that Chrysler was famous for when doing underbody refinishing.

Nason has less solids in it.. When spraying it you create a fog of paint that sticks to everything in the shop...

Bottom of my car has it... Would never use it again... Not because of how it turned out but the huge mess it made at the painters...

Thanks guys for all the info. I am going to stick with PPG.

I have been a bodyman all of my adult life, and now teach the trade. Of all of the epoxy primers I have used, SPI is hands down the best. From adhesion, sandability, work time, etc. SPI is the one to pick. Many, Many pebble beach cars have been done with 100% SPI products.

All this coming from a lifetime DuPont guy, and you know how they are!!!

If you have any questions please ask and I will be happy to answer.

(I've got some DP-40 under some Standox color...


It was sprayed in 1993...

It's doing real well...

Was a different formula in 1993. Current product is lead free. I liked the old stuff but haven't used the new. I have heard from more than a few that the new LF is not as good. I personally like the SPI.

Yeah, we know about the 'tweak' of the modern...


The longevity will not be there...

Be it paint, glass, or re-pop parts...

I wouldn't use the new lead free ppg epoxy. It's non sanding and it pretty much sucks because of that... same with omni, nason etc. Maybe as a sealer, but not on bare metal.

If you want good epoxy you can sand, use SPI.

That's because its designed as a NON SANDING EPOXY PRIMER. Its only purpose is to protect the base metal from corrosion and give a solid base for top coat materials. It was never designed to be sprayed down heavy, or to fill.

If you're looking for a sand-able primer, there's fantastic primers on the market for sanding. But they don't work as well as top end Epoxy primers when it comes to protecting from rust. V Prime DPS3051 is one of the best sanding primers for holdout and gloss retention that I've found. You'll crap yourself when you see the price per gallon, but don't clean that crap off yourself as you'll just be crapping yourself again when you see how fast and easy it sands.

I think what he meant is that SPI works well as a sanding primer. Also, for those that think SPI is a cheap product, several multi-million dollar Pebble Beach cars are 100% SPI from start to finish. This car is 100% SPI

This is not a comment specifically about any brand, but I've found really talented painters can pretty much make any product look good. But for people like me who some would call average, using really high end quality materials makes it much easier to get a beautiful result.

SPI hands down.

I'm sure they call it non sanding because of how crappy it is!

I do epoxy then put the fillers on and then high build primers... so what do I do with non sanding when I try and do body work over it? I know I end up with clogged sandpaper.

You can buy and use all you want, but I won't use it if it's free!

Epoxy , fill primer , then filler.

*Start with a Sandblasted surface that is clean- or D.A. sand with 80 grit and clean. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!

* Spray SPI epoxy, 2 coats with proper flash time in between. Wait 24 hours.

* Apply filler directly over un-sanded epoxy- fresh epoxy and filler have a death grip on each other

* After filler work is done, spray 2 more coats of epoxy to seal it in.

* before your 7 day window ( SPI only) is up, spray primer filler over project


By doing it this way you are ensuring proper moisture protection on either side of the filler. Epoxy and filler have a death grip on each other and making this " epoxy sandwich" is the best way to prevent rust from forming under the filler.

Any questions please ask away! I do this for a living.

The only negative of spi for me is cold weather... you must keep it above a certain temp for 24hrs. Otherwise it's all I'll use once I'm out of the leaded ppg I stockpiled

As far as doing 2k primer or putty directly over the non sanding ppg, you still end up sanding into it and ruining a lot of sand paper. You can get epoxy for half the price that will do the same thing.