Starting restoraton on my 68 Coronet RT need input...

If your going to do a stock type resto I would say the absolute best thing you can do is go to the shows and take lots of pictures of ORIGINAL unrestored cars. Don't bother looking at restored cars if your really striving to get it perfect. I have about 5000 orig pics and some really good ones of a few Coronets. Let me know if you would like a copy. Good luck, theres lots of great advice on this board so keep us posted!

OK 1000 plus pictures, bag and tag eve rything, organize what needs to be redone,redo and rebag and tag in finish section of shop. thank you for info.

Where do I get this Resto Ricks book, does anyone have any literature they want to sell, I'll have to replace lowere quarter sections, and a couple floor pans, typical B Body. I have had this RT for 25 years, and have purchase two more over the years so i have plenty to go back on, but will still take lots of picks. Thanks.

Thanks i might nee some of them pic, Ill let u know when i get to that piont, appreciated.

I would add to the above:
- after removing window/door assemblies, reassemble the parts and take pictures of them for reference.
- keep 3 separate notebooks. One for parts that need to be purchased (missing, broken or worn out), one for parts that need to be farmed out for restoration (guages,interior, etc.), and one that notes repairs needed to the body, suspension, and drive train as well as general observations of things wrong or that you would like to change.
This way you can keep an eye out for the parts on list one while you are working on list number three and you can schedule the work to be farmed out on list two as money permits so everything comes together in a timely manner.

I took lots of pictures of my car and yet still find areas where I forgot to get a picture and had to ask someone to help out.
The best rule: assume you will forget everything.

Here are a couple challenges we encountered when I restored my 69 Super Bee:

*body parts - make sure to test fit trim and bumpers BEFORE painting the car. Make sure all these parts fit and line up. Same with the quarter panel end caps. If you are having a shop do your bodywork, take them all this stuff and insist the test fit everything before painting.

*interior metal - you know those metal panels that are right below the rear side glass? Test fit those as well once the bodywork is done prior to painting. I installed them on my Bee, and closed the doors without thinking about it. Sadly, the inner door metal colided with that rear metal panel and chipped them both. This could have been easily avoided if I had the body shop test fit them and make appropriate adjustments.

*Install the dash, pre-loaded with all wiring and parts BEFORE installing windshield. Ooops!

*Test fit windshield and rear window before painting. Test fit the chrome window trim as well.

*If you are installing new floor pans, make sure the drain holes are drilled before painting.

*Insist on receipts for EVERYTHING

*Ask a lot of question on this website. The answers come quickly. People here know these cars.

*Re-use/restore as much as possible before going down the aftermarket route. Resto parts are generally really good, but originals tend to fit the best.

*Don't get cheap on the plated parts. Pay more for the best work you can find. I had a terrible experience with my chrome shop.

*Ask and demand. If you are dealing with shops, know exactly what you are getting into. Demand receipts, and demand that the work is done properly the first time. Ask loads of questions. Shop around until you find the right people.

*Get an original service manual for your car. If this is too costly, find a re-print. A thousand photos is fine, but the manuals can really help when you are putting things back together.

*Careful with the mods - I made a few modifications to my car - a high torque starter, electronic ignition, and a few suspension upgrades. My car is a little more reliable, but feels like a proper 1969 car. Those are reversible modifications. I also changed the color of my car. That is not as easy to change back. Make sure if you do any major changes, you do some major soul-searching beforehand.

*expect to pay double or more of what you thought it would cost to restore your car.

When bagging parts, I slide in a 3 x 5 card describing any special ways the part or fastener came off. I also use the card to keep track of the parts when they are out for replating.

Well, this may open up a can of worms but..

I restored my 70 Coronet from scratch (basket case).

If I had it to do all over again.
I would NOT disassemble the whole thing..

Why?

Fact #1---- always remember this..

Over 90% of all cars disassembled for restoration
NEVER get reassembled....

Having done one here's what I've learned..
(the hard way)

1) Cars which are completely dissassembled
almost always overwhelm their owners.
Why...because its not a car anymore,
its a stripped chassis with literally
hundreds of parts, bags, boxes, assemblies,
sub-assemblies, laying around the house/garage
workspace etc...

You won't realize how many pieces are on a car
until you dissamble one completely and re-assemble it...

In the event life gets in the way
sickness, divorce, job loss,
an assembled car can easily be manipulated
i.e moved, stored etc...

try moving a disassembled car!!!!


So here's my suggestion

1) Take a complete inventory of the cars current state system by system and write down clearly on paper what it is you want done to make that system
the way you want it...

then put a cost next to that system...
For example:


1) fuel system - replace carb, replace fuel lines
2) exhaust system - replace entire system/hangers
3) brake system - complete overhaul, new lines
4) starting system - new battery/cables/starter
5) charging system - new alternator/vol regulator
6) ignition system - convert to MSD... etc..
7) Cooling system - recore radiator, new hoses..
8) Engine long block - reman from Jasper etc..
9) Transmission - reman from jasper etc
10) Rear end - new bearings/seals rebuild 3rd mem.
11) Electrical engine - new harness
12) electrical dash - new harness/ light bulbs
13) electrical body = new harness
14) chrome (Treat this as a system) rechrome all
15) Glass - replace scratched front w/s
16) interior - replace seats,carpet,h/l. door panels, dash pad,
17) Sheet metal - panel by panel whats wrong
- front fender R
- front fender L
- Driver door
- Pass door
- Driver quarter panel
- Pass quarter panel
- tail panel
- hood
- rocker panels
- trunk lid
- top
- trunk floor
- engine bay
- frame

18) weatherstripping - repalce all with soffseal
19) wheels & tires - 4 new tires 4 new rallye rims

The total cost will shock you!!!

Do not remove ANYTHING on that car that isnt absolutely necessary...for that system/thing
you want to do...

Start with one system.. like the exhaust system
etc...

Do not do anything else until that system is 100%
done the way you would want it to...

Don't be in a rush, don't be surprised if it takes
5 times longer than you expect and cost 2-4 times as much!

Hope this helps
Best of luck

You are right about the issues if about selling, divorce, etc., so a restoration is a commitment. But, I think you are wrong not to disassemble the car. After all, restoration is about restoring the car. That means starting with the shell, and going from there. You can't do that if you start hanging exhaust, brake lines, etc. I think if you are organized and disciplined with taking pictures and notes, then the reassembly is easy. I also found it may be easier to restore some components like dash, rear end, etc, when you take them off the car. Then set them aside until the body is done. Then its a matter of bolt up.
You are right about moving projects, but again, if you have commitment, it shouldn't be an issue.

I think all the advice has merit. My advice would be to remain committed to just one project at a time. I let a crazy "practice painting" project side track me from my barracuda project. I learned a lot on the practice project; however with hindsight I would have enjoyed learning on the real thing.

What every you figure your budget to be to restore the car........take it X 1.5!

It will always be more than you expected!

A serious "restoration" has to be completely disassembled in my opinion. However if you are just trying to get a driver car to look better then option #2 might be the way to go.
Either way will require commitment and money especially if you have to pay someone else to do the work.
Restoring a car is not a project for quitters so if you are prone to give up easy save yourself some aggravation and don't start.