Lower control arm coating?

Did all the B bodies get the gold coating on the lower control arms or was it factory specific?

Corey

Cosmoline... pretty sure they all got it

What year are you refering to...Early B s got a black dipped control arm...{mid 60s}

1968 cars and back got black painted lowers

1969 dodge b body. thanks guys. what is everyone using for the coating?

I used "Quasimoline Paint" sold by Resto Rick. Good stuff....

http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PntQuasimoline

JT

Same here

Krylon battery protector work well too. Some will spray with clear to cover the sticky-ness so that they don't collect dirt.

Read here: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=

I used the Krylon Battery Protector. It seemed to get good reviews and I was able to purchase it locally. Most of the tackiness dried up in time but i did spray a coat of clear over top.

Is it true that 71 and up lynch road cars were black? I currently have three of these cars and there is no evidence that they ever had "quasmoline" as a coating on the LCA's. Any input?

I started with this, real Cosmoline. 5 gallon bucket was expensive but will last for years. Around $400.00

A soak in Evaporust and a scrub with a good non abrasive pad and solvent to get back to a nice clean bare metal.

Starting with nice clean parts makes a big difference, rust pitting won't get hidden by any cosmetic coating.

The big dip up to about the outer rivet based on the original pattern my set had (it varied)

Hanging to dry for a couple days. These reflect what the finished appearance would be using this method and the same look originals had. Drips, runs, thin and thick areas etc. are the norm. I used a box as a drip catcher, a clean metal pan would have allowed for a better unused product catch all (to save it) maybe next time. Most of the Cosmoline runs/drips off but it's a slow (hours) process.

Once these were dried the surface was slightly tacky, sort of like a candle feels, not so much stick, but waxy. I used ECS's RPM product on the entire arm before coating so any bare areas will remain nice and rust free.

I have also used the Krylon battery protector with good results for drivers I've done, it looks pretty close, dries to a slick non sticky surface like other paints, etc. but it won't get by any O.E judge worth his salt. I haven't tried Ricks "Quasiline" product but he makes awesome products so I'm sure it's high quality stuff as well.

So many options.

For the OE correct I do the real stuff dip method as Scott shows, certainly the most authentic way.

Here's a pic of my "Quasimoline" paint.
I'll soon be offering a satin clear epoxy paint finish for over bare steel.