17 ' wheels on a 1971 Challenger convertible

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Width and backspacing for 17 inch rims would be the same as for any other size of rim. If you have a 14 inch rim that fits properly then just order 17 inch rims with the same width and backspacing and your tires will be in the same location.

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Yep but you probably want to go wider as 14" wheels were very narrow.
Should be able to get away with standard back space. As far as how they look that is a question only you can answer for yourself as opinions are like butt-wholes every one has one and they all stink

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Also on another subject: Anybody put a fuel injected GEN 3 Hemi in their muscle car? How hard was it? What did you do for wiring? Did you use fuel injection? This is my next project.

Thanks
Sanman

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I have asked this a number of times and still wonder why no one has put together a book on the subject. There are a couple of magazine articles on the subject but like many they tend to publish the "highlights"
Companies like web page and web page have been helpful in providing info. But generally I have found people just give you a blank stare here.
Swapping the engine to my knowledge will need special mounts, the engine of course, a decision on what type of trans you want to use each has its benefits and problems. A special oil pan, special fuel tank, special headers or Jeep exhaust manifolds. Possible oil filter relocation. Wiring is usually obtained when you get your engine, IF you are getting a scrap yard pull. Make sure to get all accessories and mounts, and all of the wiring and the computer. Buying the computer separate runs like $2K or the kit with wiring at about $4K or a crate engine (5.7) at $7.5-8K). So basically the parts IMO are still too high to make it worth while on a lot of fronts. A crate 360/390 is $5K and that is 30hp more than the crate 5.7 and $2k less.
So you wont really get a lot of information from most on this swap. It appears to be more of a jump in and see what happens type of thing.

A little off subject but I was interested in doing a procharger system and all of the magazines make it look simple and highly recommend the Supercharger store. I told the guy there I wanted a 30-40% increase in hp on my 440 he said the kit was $7-8K! Still again not a feasible "modification" IMO. For that price you could get a 522/600hp from CME and they build the whole thing (no parts chasing)

Just my 2 cents

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Width and backspacing for 17 inch rims would be the same as for any other size of rim. If you have a 14 inch rim that fits properly then just order 17 inch rims with the same width and backspacing and your tires will be in the same location.

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Do the name "butt ugly" ring any bells????

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Most of us don't like fat chicks- so what's your point?

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Rims
American Racing Torque Thrust M's
Front - 17x8 with 4.5" backspacing
Rear - 18x9 with 5.9" backspacing

Notes - The rear 18s are running 3/4" wheel spacers to keep the tire off the spring. The axle has 3" studs to allow for proper lug engagement with the thick aluminum wheel and spacers. Also, that particular wheel has a different size hub for the 17 and 18. The 18" wheel will NOT fit on the front without modifying the hub on the car, or the wheel. I stumbled upon this when I got the 18s first and I wanted to just try them on the front.

Tires - Nitto 555
Front - 255/45/17
Rear - 295/45/18

Suspension
Front ride height - 24 1/2" from the ground to the center of the wheel well.
Rear ride height - 26"

Front suspension is stock torsion bar suspension. The rear has super stock leaf springs with 1" lowering blocks. (~about stock height)

Rear clearances - 1/2" from the tire to the leaf spring, and 1/2" from the tire to the 1/4 panel. 1" for the same locations, but to the actual rim lip.

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Mine are 17 and 18s, but sharing specs.

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Rims
American Racing Torque Thrust M's
Front - 17x8 with 4.5" backspacing
Rear - 18x9 with 5.9" backspacing

Notes - The rear 18s are running 3/4" wheel spacers to keep the tire off the spring. The axle has 3" studs to allow for proper lug engagement with the thick aluminum wheel and spacers. Also, that particular wheel has a different size hub for the 17 and 18. The 18" wheel will NOT fit on the front without modifying the hub on the car, or the wheel. I stumbled upon this when I got the 18s first and I wanted to just try them on the front.

Tires - Nitto 555
Front - 255/45/17
Rear - 295/45/18

Suspension
Front ride height - 24 1/2" from the ground to the center of the wheel well.
Rear ride height - 26"

Front suspension is stock torsion bar suspension. The rear has super stock leaf springs with 1" lowering blocks. (~about stock height)

Rear clearances - 1/2" from the tire to the leaf spring, and 1/2" from the tire to the 1/4 panel. 1" for the same locations, but to the actual rim lip.

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Mine are 17 and 18s, but sharing specs.

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Rims
American Racing Torque Thrust M's
Front - 17x8 with 4.5" backspacing
Rear - 18x9 with 5.9" backspacing

Notes - The rear 18s are running 3/4" wheel spacers to keep the tire off the spring. The axle has 3" studs to allow for proper lug engagement with the thick aluminum wheel and spacers. Also, that particular wheel has a different size hub for the 17 and 18. The 18" wheel will NOT fit on the front without modifying the hub on the car, or the wheel. I stumbled upon this when I got the 18s first and I wanted to just try them on the front.

Tires - Nitto 555
Front - 255/45/17
Rear - 295/45/18

Suspension
Front ride height - 24 1/2" from the ground to the center of the wheel well.
Rear ride height - 26"

Front suspension is stock torsion bar suspension. The rear has super stock leaf springs with 1" lowering blocks. (~about stock height)

Rear clearances - 1/2" from the tire to the leaf spring, and 1/2" from the tire to the 1/4 panel. 1" for the same locations, but to the actual rim lip.

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