Leaky 8-3/4 rear. Walk me through repair???

My 8-3/4" rear is leaking where the pig meets the axle case....

To remove the center section, I assume I'll have to pull the axles, right?

Anything else to keep in mind?

Thanks,

Greg

Yep, gotta pull the axles. Don't loose the lock on the passenger side (clip that attaches to one of the axle retainer studs). You could measure end play before you disassemble and if OK just don't turn the adjuster. Also, check the axle bearings. They have to be packed with grease as they don't get lubrication from the gear oil. The pig is heavy and makes a mess when you pull it. Remove some oil from the bottom of the housing so it doesn't drip on the housing flange. I like to use a gasket and RTV although some people use RTV only. Reassemble, push the axles back in and fill it back up.

Did you have the center section out recently before the leak started? Probally not, huh if your asking how to take it out Look very closely at the leak, make sure it is NOT leaking between a stud and the nut on it then leaking onto the center section This can happen when one of the studs is knock loose or removed and reinstalled with no sealer around the serations that hold the studs into the housing If it is leaking from the studs you may have to reseal that stud. I have been able to drain the rear end, clean the stud up real well with brake cleaner and then use thread sealer (or gasket making silicone)around the stud and between the copper washers and the center section That doesn't work all the time if that is causing the leak, the other option is to seal the stud with silicone and pull it up tight with washers and a nut, let it sit overnight or longer to seal up. If it is something else, like the gasket, repair as needed To answer your question on the axles, you do need to pull them out before trying to remove the center section Buy a factory service manul for your car before starting, there is a adjustment on end play on the axles that needs to be checked and set if needed

Just did one two month's ago When doing it remember to make sure the silicone your using stinks, found out that the tube I used was old and as result ended up doing the job again the next day JUST A FYI.

as you are pulling the axles for this it is a good time to clean, inspect and repack the axle bearings and replace the inner axle seals so that they don't leak rear end lube into the bearing area.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/12.html

pull each axle back about a foot and I'd suggest using the gasket (Felpro RDS 6583) rather than messy silicone and use eng oil on both sides of it & clean the mating faces on housing/3rd member. Get a $5 needle attachment for your grease gun & as MFL said lube the bearings. It MAY be a good time to R&R the seals if you are comfortable w that & it takes some care/practice to get em right as it's harder than it looks to get em perfect and if so when you reinsert the axles wrap the splines tight w some brown paper from a grocery bag and slip the splined end past the seal then pull the paper back out. EDIT only difficulty is keeping the bearing flange w the 5 holes coming out/going in evenly as it is not loose on the splined studs. Large screwdriver to keep it even when coming off and pin punch to tap it down/on evenly when going back in.

Thanks, guys.

It figures that 2 years ago I replaced the axle seals, but of course at that time the center section wasn't leaking.....

We'll see if the motivation to tackle this project hits me before cruising season starts.

Thanks again!!

Greg