Quick Electronic Ignition Conversion Question

I just ordered up a Pertronix ignition set for the stock 318 in my Satellite.

For a stock 318 should I upgrade the coil (Pertronix recommends its Flamethrower) or will the OE-style provide enough fire?

I'd highly suggest the Ignitor 2 and the flamethrower coil and get the Epoxy version so you can mount it horizontle in the OE bracket

If your using a factory Chrysler point type dist, (not a Prestolite) go with the Ignitor II set up pn# PNX 91381A and use the Flame thrower II coil they offer it in black or Chrome, epoxy filled is the prefered coil pn# for black epoxy coil is pn# PNX 45111,.....the factory coils don't offer the same ohm rating or turn ratio that the Flame Thrower II's offer, the factory coil will actually diminish the HallCell out put, and shorten it's life,...I do recommend you lose the ballast resistor,...it's a weak link not needed, there's no mods to the dist. it's a pure bolt in deal,....you'll gain an extra wire from the dist, black to neg side of the coil, red to positive side of the coil,...just confirm that your IGNITION lead from the bulkhead going to the coil (usually blue) is on the positive side of the coil,...when you get your kit, DO NOT remove the green tape from the magnetic pick up, it's there for a reason, if you want to keep the ballst for "looks", gut it out, and solder in a #10 wire inside it,...installing the Petronix in car, will rephase the timing +/- anywhere from 5-15 degrees BTDC or ATDC, so the car may not start at first, so reset/check timing, some do's/don'ts, do not run soild core plug wires, it will destroy the HallCell, don't leave the ignition key on in the IGN. mode for more than 20-30 seconds without the engine running, as it will destroy the HallCell, if you need to trouble shoot the vehicle in ignition key mode, remove the red lead from the coil, do not install the Petronix kit on a well worn dist, purchase a new/rebuilt/or rebuild the shaft bushings, no not set the air gap of the HallCell with anything metal, use the PLASTIC feeler gage supplied in the kit (.040 IIRC) run a good COPPER terminal dist cap, not an aluminum terminal, I'd also recommend the Petronix Flame thrower black 7mm plug wires.....you'll find that Bosch Platnium plugs (single or multi tips) are the hot set-up for the Petronix (the same plugs that the factory MP/ electronic Ign or MSD can't fire, never mind run)...follow these tips, you'll be rewarded with a faster starting system, hot or cold, no ignition break up in the 6000 RPM range, no more carbon tracking in the cap, no more pitted rotors,


I installed the first of many Petronix kits back in 1990, I've yet to have/experience a failure, you'll find that plug/cap/rotor changes are extremely few and far between

noted, will order the Flamethrower

dayclona, why do you recommend bypassing the ballast resistor? Would that not leave an open circuit?

Dan,


The ballast is a weak link in the system, you could wire your Petronix to work with the factory ballast, but the voltage output will be dimished, just like factory, the Flame Thrower coils have an internal ballast built in, but it's a true 12 V system to the HallCell,...keeping the factory ballast will drop the voltage down to 9 volts on the HallCell, dimishing performannce, to eliminate the ballast you can simply just connect the two ballast wire bayonets together with a double ended stak-on, or if you want to retain a "factory" look by retaing the ballast on the firewall, just "dummy up" the ballast by soldering a #10 wire inside the back of the ballast,this way you complete the circut, but now have 12 volts, rather than 9 to the HallCell,.... but remember to gut the ballast's resistive coil winding inside, just solder the wire to the terminal ends,....the Petronix kit gives you 2 choices in wiring,...but IMHO I feel you'll get the best optimized system by eliminating the ballast's function from the system, and having a TRUE 12V system,....it's a very noticable performance and reliability increase that you'll see when converted properly

Mike

If you still want the look of the ballast on the firewall simply solder a appropriate gauge wire across the back terminals (backside).

Looks stock and no ther mods required.

Pertronix recommends removing the ballast

good info here, very helpful

Stock Mopar Coil and never a problem for last 8 years

I know that one advantage to the pertronix system is being able to run a wider plug gap. What do you guys recommend stepping up to from the .035 factory setting? Maybe .040? Car is sig car, 360/904, 9:1 slugs, factory 340 cam, eddie performer intake and 1406 (600 cfm) carb.

roe

start w .040" & if it isn't missing at the end of the quarter (or city block ) you're good & try .005" more. keep it simple, if it starts/runs better w more gap then you're good. I would extend the rotor blade tip w solder as a large gap there is wasted spark energy that is better put to use in the cyl and I would check/adj (if needed) phasing. Get each subsystem near spot on

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I installed the first of many Petronix kits back in 1990, I've yet to have/experience a failure, you'll find that plug/cap/rotor changes are extremely few and far between

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What he said!! I have always used them in my points to electronic conversions and they are worth every cent!