sb water pump?

My son will be buying a new water pump for the 360 going in his '77 warlock are there 6 or 8 blade versions still available?I remember this being discussed before but I can't remember which is best?
Wasn't there a heavy duty water pump that was used on police cars back in the 80's?

I got the 8 blade heavy duty 1 for my 340 at NAPA, it was a new 1 and not a rebuilt 1. RONNIE

8 moves more fluid & 6 was used w A/C cause it had a faster pulley ratio (to spin the fan faster to move more air at idle/low speeds cause of the added A/C heat in the condensor) which made up for 2 less blades as Ma thought an 8 would then cavitate at higher rpms w the faster A/C pulley ratio moving the vanes too fast. Use an 8 & tack weld the 5 dollar anticavitation plate on the vanes & you have the best of both worlds.

yes there is a HD cooling one for police cars

8 vanes and a 5/8 shaft larger bearings

it has ribs down the neck,other is like a gatling gun...long tubes down the neck,most times will be a 6 vane

8 vanes non a/c pullys
6 vanes for a/c pullys

both move same x amount of water at idle,8 vane with a/c pully can cause it to cavitate at high rpms(marine engines),ma mopar used 8 vanes on some police cars for the added fan rpms at idle for oil,tranz,PS,rad coolers

they did more idle time/traffic than high speeds like the cruzers

correct size pully help the alt/charging sytems,I have seen cop engines with larger alt pullys before also

Where do you get the anti-cavitation plate?

I run the 6 vein with no issues at all. My temp holds 180-185 in 90 degree weather.

they both will work fine if new or good condition

very seldom do I have a heating problem thats pump related anyway

but have seen some bad things with cavitation on some offshore inbord engines and extended high rpms

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Where do you get the anti-cavitation plate?

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mancini iirc had it but you can cut a piece of round steel material and weld it to the vanes. FYI I dont think you're this far dissassembled but if so to go further you can press the impeller closer to the body (~.035") (support the shaft on the other side on your press) & mill the timing cover to reduce the vanes to the flat recess in the timing cover (or the cav plate to the flat recess) to the same distance to make the pump much more efficient and look inside the 2 large timing cover water passages and about halfway in on each one is a casting line that protrudes slightly where the mold was seperated, put a rag behind it to keep the filings out & grind them to make the ID the same. Takes 1 minute w a whizzer & streamlines that passage & you can do that now WO disturbing the timing cover. When milling the cover you will have to space the WP pulley forward to keep it aligned. Just food for thought on your next build