Converting from manual brakes to power?

I'm going to convert my 68 Satellite to power disc brakes from manual drums. I already have my disc setup and am getting a new booster and master cylinder next week. The question i have is do i need a new pedal assy for power brakes, and what linkage/brakets do I need to connet to the pedal. Also, what about the preportoning (sic) valve? Thanks for any feedback, because I have no idea what all I need.

I'm not sure if this helps, but when I bought my 70 Charger in 2000, it had 10 inch drums all around. I was able to retain the same brake pedal setup when I added in a power booster and master cylinder from a 75 Dart. I used the Dart rotors, calipers and spindle/knuckles as well. Very easy swap, actually. I have heard that in some models, they have 2 holes drilled in the brake pedal lever. The top hole is for the manual setup, while the lower hole is for power apps. This is why power brake cars have their pedal closer to the floor. I believe the reasoning is that the added boost needs less leverage to function properly.

I'd like to get a firm answer on this too. I have the parts to convert my 68 charger- extra booster and master from stainless steel brakes kit that another guy didnt need-he had an original power brake car so he was upgrading, not converting

Brake pedals are brake pedals, the factory only makes 1 set for your application, all the holes are there, wether your car is disc, manual, drum, power,...however if your car is basic drum, you'll need the bellcrank assy to utilize a power booster, the power booster sits up higher on the firewall, hence the need for the offset bellcrank assy, you'll need the correct firewall plate that's behind the booster, as the manual plate only has provisions for mounting a master cylinder only,....you could modify the manual plate if you have the tooling, as the booster will cover your surgery, and whats left of the manual master hole



Here's a 70 B bodie Bendix dual diaphram booster with bellcrank (Bendix or Midland Ross booster all use the same bellcrank),.....as long as you have all the bellcrank pcs, this set-up bolts to any 68-70 B bodie pedal set, depending on what you mix/match in regards to linkage, you may/may not need bushings/redurcer bushings, as some diameters differ over the years/manufacturers parts,...but nothing a quick trip to a well stocked hardware store can't solve

Mike

Also on your swap, you may need to remove some welded studs projecting from the firewall that were used to retain the manual drum master/firewall plate assy, plus drill 2 new upper holes to accept the power boosters studs




Regarding an all drum car being converted to front only discs, the drum brake distubution block is not a proportioning valve, you'll need a proportioning valve from your donor, Finelines has new PV,...do not cheap out and use INLINE TUBING's PV, they are junk!,....you'll find that drum lines don't match up to the PV ports/thread size,...time for new lines, I usually recommend FINELINES STAINLESS STEEL repro lines,..do it once, do it right,....make sure you use the proper size disc/drum master cylinder for your application,...the drum master won't work,


Also use a new check valve on the booster, and you'll need a vacumm source for your booster, take it from the intake manifold ONLY, not of any off the carb ports!


If your going to do a 4 wheel disc set-up power or not, you don't need a PV or distrubution block,...you only need to TEE the front brake lines, left/right,...the rear brake line can come directly off the master cylinder port


Mike