Muscle car oil

how old of a cam? I think most of those 20-30-40 year old cams have been replaced by now. so unless the cam companys are still using steel that was smelted eons ago, how is $8/quart oil going to help?

It's not the steel material that's the issue, it's the lubrication properties of the oil, and the fast that many of us are running more aggressive cams than stock. Plenty of guys are wiping new cams, so why take the chance?

at $8/quart? I'm sure todays cam/lifters with the micro-finishing on them, and the porous nature of the metal that they are using easily compensates for any 'lack' of zinc. also, who much of an advantage is say 1000ppm vs what?? 1500ppm in today 'high' zinc race oil. not trying to start a pissing match. just curious.

Lar, Rotella DOES NOT have the zinc that it used to have. It used to be the old stand-by in regards to zinc. (ZDDP) It now has the same amount of zinc as any other typical oil now. Someone I know now has a very low lift cam as a result of Rotella.

The two oils that I've looked into are the Valvoline VR and Joe Gibbs. I went with Valvoline VR because it's not synthetic. It seems to have enough zinc, and it's relatively inexpensive too.

Warhawk, the new cams still have a tendency to wipe lobes without a greater amount of zinc than the standard oil contains. I'm not a chemist just a guy that's been building engines since the mid 60s and I will not break in a new motor or cam without adding zinc to the oil. So far I have only lost one cam.

I used the Valvoline VR1 20w50 last change, it looked pretty thick but seems to work well, ie good pressure, and lower valvetrain noise.

Valvoline VR1 20w50 is what I run. I have had oil samples of it new and used in my car. It has 1100 to 1200 ppm zinc from the samples I have had taken.

Well greatly appreciate the comeback. I myself run GTX 20w-50 and have been very happy with it. I just dont buy into all the hoopla about some of these oils. My oppinion is if you keep it changed often you wont have any trouble. Thanx guys.

Hey Big, I agree about not buying into hoopla, but please make sure you read up on and understand about zinc and ZDDP in oil. Sometimes, the hoopla is intended to cover up the fact that the zinc level has been cut back. Our cars were designed and built with flat tappets, and oil always had sufficient zinc to protect them. About 5 years ago, zinc levels in typical oils were reduced, to protect catalytic converters in newer cars. At this time, problems started showing up with the older cars. The problems are usually in the form of mysteriously failing camshafts. Changing your oil frequently won't compensate for the fact that there just isn't enough of this specific lubricant in the oil. Eventually, the current API standard will be replaced with another, and zinc levels may drop even lower at that time.

In my experience, and this is strictly anecdotal, but the less forthcoming an oil manufacturer is about the zinc content of their oil, the less zinc their oil contains. Conversely, if the oil is advertised as containing sufficient zinc, and as suitable for older cars, this is usually a good sign. Again, this is just my opinion.

I was going to post the same thing

Personally I prefer Amsoil products and use their Dominator series oil. But whatever your preference is, this bulletin outlines the issues with most common, current motor oil. Comp Cams and other companies have provided similar information.

Amsoil tech bulletin on oil and flat tappet cams.

Amsoil source and added info.

Since synthetics are not recommended for break-in, I'll continue to use my old stock of conventional oil but still add a zinc additive for insurance. Then switch to high zinc Amsoil.

I think the Valvoline VR 1 20/50 has or close to the highest Zinc content for off the shelf Oil at your local parts stores , but if you want some Oil with all the good stuff in it use BradPenn Oil , they also make a Break-in Oil. The BradPenn also has more Zinc in it than the Joe Gibbs Oil if I remember right.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

whats your motor worth? it don't matter what it cost if its what your engine needs to live! zinc is the key, i don't like $55 a case either,but i'm not taking a chance to save $20. jeff57

But like posted earlier in the thread. Dont you think todays cams are made from alot better materials than the used to be?

It doesn't have anything to do with how good the cams are made, it's still very demanding metal-to-metal direct friction versus the rollers in all modern engines. The need for zinc has practically been eliminated in these modern motors. For the rest of us, there is a quick solution: specialty oil (or additives) that contain sufficient zinc. It's that simple.

Oil provides a barrier between moving parts in an engine. It keeps parts from rubbing together thus reducing heat and wear. Without this barrier engine parts would be welded together in no time.

Older cars with flat tappet cams need Zinc. Period. Most modern oils have reduced zinc because of roller cams and alleged damage that zinc causes to catalytic converters.

I can never understand guys that will spend a fortune on paint, tires, motor builds, etc and then act like they won the lotto when they find a sale on Wally world oil.
The oil is the blood of your engine, of any engine for that matter. Find the right oil for your application and use it.

I used valvoline and took out my comp cam and lifter after about 15000,...I'm now using brad penn oil....get it for about 40 a case

Fact vs Opinion click here to read up on some oil analysis. Better than opinions and misinformation...

The OP specifically asked for opinions...although in this case, most of the opinions stated are also fact.

I'd heard the hydraulic flat tappet cams required more zinc so I always dumped the VR1 into my 440 at every oil change. Then I heard that even VR1 might not have enough zinc. When I rebuilt my engine I installed a flat tappet hydraulic Lunati cam and lifters.

You'll never believe what I did next. I called the cam maker! Whoa, right?

VR1 is adequate.

And if you don't want to run 20w-50 you can get some of the local parts stores to order cases of the other weights. Valvoline makes the VR1 in 10w-30 and 10w-40. My local O'Reilly will order cases but AutoZone won't. You also have to find the right person at these types of stores because, or course, some of the people are new and clueless.

Where do you find the ZDDP additive?Is that the actual name on the label?Is the Comp additive the same thing?

i ordered 2 cases of VR1 10-30 from O'Reilly's while building my 440. only $4 per quart

Well just told my wife I gotta run a roller cam now.

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And here is a Brad Penn analysis I had done over a year ago,only way to be sure.Go compare,most others aren't even close.

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I would not use anything else............