Moparts
Ignition Switch??
Posted By: MoparJ
Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 06:32 PM
After checking my ignition box (tried two different ones), swapping ballasts, swapping a coil, I still cannot get the Duster to stay lit. It will fire when I turn the key, but will die as soon as I let off. I thought this may have been ballast related at first, but evidently not.Wiring all looks ok.Ign
Is my next suspect the ignition switch?
Posted By: buildanother
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 06:52 PM
It's usually not switch. Have you tried flipping key on and starting at relay with screwdriver?
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 06:56 PM
No. Previously, this was an intermittent issue, only occuring once in a while and the car would not try to start whatsoever for a few moments. After 5 or 10 minutes of trying, it would fire and run beautifully and start ok for the rest of the day.
This no run once the key is released symptom is new and now it is no longer starting, no matter how long I wait.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:04 PM
When in ign2 (start) the coil needs to be fed (full voltage bypassing the ballast) and the "point" of the ECU connector needs to be fed (4 pin ECU) plus another pin on a 5 pin (stock type) ECU. Take off the yellow "sol" wire from the starter relay to temporarily disable the starter (just to eliminate the noise/distraction and battery drain) and have a helper hold the key to "start" & you under the hood see if these 2 points (+) pri coil terminal & the "point" of pentastart connector) (3 if 5 pin) are getting fire. Sounds like classic ballast prob but not always and I had that recently on a stock 5 pin ECU truck and it was the ECU.
Posted By: John_Kunkel
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:07 PM
Check the spade terminals on the brown IGN2 wire at the firewall disconnect.
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:08 PM
The ignition box used is a Mopar Orange Box. FOr the past three years, I have used the original 4 prong style ballast, only utilizing the bottom two posts. No problems until about 3 months ago.
Starter relay was replaced about 4 months ago.
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:10 PM
What side of the bulkhead would that be on? I would search by colors, but the previous owner painted all of the firewall (including the wiring) black.
Posted By: John_Kunkel
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:17 PM
The removeable connector on the firewall side is the usual source of problems, follow the brown wire in the blue/brown connector on one side of the ballast to the firewall connector.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:22 PM
The eng side of the bulkhead, the wire going to the brown wire on the ballast plug in. I have a stock well used 4 terminal ballast and it has 6 ohms on one side (which is way too high) and 1.4 ohms on the other and with both sides wired parallel I get 1.1 ohms which is perfect as the stock 2 terminal ballast supplied w the orange box kit is 1.25 ohms. See if the ballast has continuity and if it's getting fire
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:31 PM
Quote:
The eng side of the bulkhead, the wire going to the brown wire on the ballast plug in. I have a stock well used 4 terminal ballast and it has 6 ohms on one side (which is way too high) and 1.4 ohms on the other and with both sides wired parallel I get 1.1 ohms which is perfect as the stock 2 terminal ballast supplied w the orange box kit is 1.25 ohms. See if the ballast has continuity and if it's getting fire
When you say you have both sides wired parallel, do you mean both bottom posts, or both lefts, or both rights?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/16/10 07:42 PM
Quote:
When you say you have both sides wired parallel, do you mean both bottom posts, or both lefts, or both rights?
To avoid any confusion, w the 4 terminal (double type) connector the blue loop connects one end and that is my input and on the other end I connect the brown and the green w red tracer wires together and that is my output. EDIT now I understand your Q,(with it mounted horizontle on the firewall) you'd connect the lefts (brn/grn w tracer) and the blue one on the right is already connected w the blue loop.
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/17/10 07:28 PM
Well, I swapped to another ballast and vroom, it fired up. Ran for a while, then shut it off and restarted several times. No prob. Eventually, I got it to not start again, this time, not even when in the start position. Nothing. I did notice that when I would turn the key off, the ignition would spark, as the carb would backfire from it. Eventually, after sitting, the motor fired up and ran some more. I went out this morning before work and tried to start it again. No luck and this time, it is back to running in the start position, like a traditional ballast issue. What the hell? Looks like I will have to replace another ballast before I even begin to troubleshoot more.
I did notice that while running, the ballast was very warm.
It is normal for the ballast to get hot. This is why it is ceramic (to take the heat generated). Make sure the spade connectors fit tightly.
Do you have a test light or voltmeter?
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/17/10 07:51 PM
I do have a test light. I am going to look it over again. I am wondering if the ballast is wired wrong. I will have to check it out. The weird part of the issue is the spark of ignition that I get when i turn the key to the off position at times.
I have a feeling the fix is simple, but eluding me.
What application is this for?
two wire or 4 wire resistor?
points or electronic?
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/17/10 08:37 PM
Quote:
What application is this for?
two wire or 4 wire resistor?
points or electronic?
I am running an orange box with a 4 prong ballast. Only the bottom two posts of the ballast are being used. It has run like this for a long time.
Sorry I did not read the previoust post.
I guess one question would be, Are you getting voltage in the run position at the coil?
Posted By: MoparJ
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/17/10 09:49 PM
Quote:
Sorry I did not read the previoust post.
I guess one question would be, Are you getting voltage in the run position at the coil?
I will check this once I get home from work in an hour.
If not volts, what should I look for?
If there is volts?
Battery voltage at cranking
6-9 volts with just the key in the on position.
Posted By: NachoRT74
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/18/10 12:54 AM
is clear now, you are using a MP orange box
now is happening even to Chromed boxes ( BTDT )
I hate to say and admit that from MP Since I would LOVE to keep a total Mopar car but, these are not being a very quality units latelly.
I will be changing to FBO soon... As soon arrives to my hands
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/18/10 02:45 AM
Might w some jumper wires cut to the chase and jump 12V from the batt positive post or the alt batt stud directly to the "point" of the pentastar ECU connector AND to the (+) primary coil terminal either directly or thru the ballast(after you ohm it) and if you go direct wo a ballast only let run a few seconds or so. I'm assuming the ECU has a good ground w all the changing you've did. forget the ign sw & jump the starter at the relay. All that is needed is the dist pickup needs to trigger the ECU to ground the coil pri to collapse it (the pri field). Still no go? Got a spare dist to plug in & spin it by hand & see if that triggers a spark. All this will eliminate the wiring/ign sw & help pin it down to a particular component. EDIT Let everything get good and hot as that's when "something" will start to act up
Posted By: 68KillerBee
Re: Ignition Switch?? - 03/19/10 04:04 AM
Like these guys are saying check the bulkhead. I've read through this twice and it doesn't sound like you've done that. Visually inspect them. I replaced ignition switches, ballast resistor, had the dash in and out multiple times. then I checked the bulkhead and the was the source of the problems. It sounds EXACTLY like what you are explaining. these bulkheads are a major problem area with all mopars. Like I said, my car would run fun and everything, then it would randomly do that. Even when I'm driving around it will randomly do that. check it
