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Didn't this get beat to death a week ago ?!?!?!?!?
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Didn't this get beat to death a week ago ?!?!?!?!?
I think it did, i do know i had started a thread not to long ago, but a week on Moparts Q&A is long gone or a good 18-20 pages away, maybe more, i think a "sticky" would be a good thing, or a "welding" section.
That being said, one consensus was that if you EVER consider doing anything heavier than body or exhaust work, you'll regret the 115/120 volt units. Even if ALL you do is body work, if you do a lot, plan on a gouge in your electric budget. I don't understand all I know about electricity, but I do know the 220 volt units are much cheaper to run. Also, as was stated previously, if you go strictly gas-less, you won't be happy. I have a gas-less 110 Lincoln and a gassed 220 Hobart. I tried using the Lincoln on body repairs because I had to work outside and didn't want to deal with the headaches of breezes and gas shield. The flux core wire, even at the lower voltage heats the metal too much and distortion was hard to control, not to mention the slag and excess splatter. I finally got fed up and scrounged a large piece of cardboard for a wind break and drug out the Hobart. I was a much happier camper. 
Quote:Sorry for the question but I have been without a computer for alittle over 2 weeks
Didn't this get beat to death a week ago ?!?!?!?!?
......some people are new, or never explored that facet of the hobby until they need to, don't know why people get their undies in bunchies over a simple question, even if they've seen it a hundred times 
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The solution is pretty simple. If you dislike duplicate questions, do not read and do not post on the thread.
Quote:Thank you I have been really thinking about signing off due to some of the know it all members on here. Some of use have only been at it for a short while and we have questions. I belive thats what forums are designed for. But I do think maybe a tool section would be very helpful.
It's like any other posts on Moparts, what classic car insurance to use, my car won't start, how to bleed brakes, who makes the cheapest....., how do I paint mt car with a brush and roller,...now thats one dead horse that rears it ugly head all the time
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The solution is pretty simple. If you dislike duplicate questions, do not read and do not post on the thread.
Quote:Could someone explain Duty cycle and what it means
I have a Century and use it quite often. It has never failed me. When I bought it 15 years ago the salesman (who I trust) of a large welding supply company said it was better because it has copper windings instead of aluminum. The duty time is a lot longer than the others at the time. Compare the duty cycle of each you are looking at, I know things have changed over the years since I bought mine. The good thing about aluminum windings it's lighter, mine is heavy.
Quote:Quote:Could someone explain Duty cycle and what it means
I have a Century and use it quite often. It has never failed me. When I bought it 15 years ago the salesman (who I trust) of a large welding supply company said it was better because it has copper windings instead of aluminum. The duty time is a lot longer than the others at the time. Compare the duty cycle of each you are looking at, I know things have changed over the years since I bought mine. The good thing about aluminum windings it's lighter, mine is heavy.
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The reason that 220v welders are cheaper to run:
A welder is basically a step down converter. This means that it takes a high voltage (110/220v) and low amperage (15A-50A) and converts it to low voltage (17v-45v) and high amperage(190A-590A).
The power company charges us by the amount of kilowatts of electricity (1000 watts) that we use.
If I'm welding using 110 Amps I'd be using 1 watt of power (110A/110v = 1w). However if I'm using a 220v welder then the equation changes to 110A/220v = 0.5w
That's why 220v welders are cheaper to run.
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The reason that 220v welders are cheaper to run:
A welder is basically a step down converter. This means that it takes a high voltage (110/220v) and low amperage (15A-50A) and converts it to low voltage (17v-45v) and high amperage(190A-590A).
The power company charges us by the amount of kilowatts of electricity (1000 watts) that we use.
If I'm welding using 110 Amps I'd be using 1 watt of power (110A/110v = 1w). However if I'm using a 220v welder then the equation changes to 110A/220v = 0.5w
That's why 220v welders are cheaper to run.
Your calculator is broken. Lets say you need 100amps at 30VDC. Thats 3000W. From 110VAC transformer, with no loss, that would be consuming 27 amps (again 3000W).
From 220VAC it would consume 13.5 amps (again 3000W)
A watt is a watt. And watts = volts x amps. Now a 220V welder may have less heat loss than a 110, but its not due to the math you describe.
220V machines are FAR more capable in terms of total output and are disreable for the work they can do, not for economy of power consumption.
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I will add that the duty cycle only will affect your work if you are welding near full capacity. Sheet metal needs short bursts or short welds at very low settings.
Welding structure like angle iron, will require longer welds at higher setting, and may get into the duty cycle.
I have a older Lincoln 100 (110v) with gas and have welded up to 3/16 mild steel, with multiple passes and yes, I did find the duty cycle and thermo protection limits..
98% of my weling is outer panels of rusty Mopars or brackets etc..
I agree--duty cycle really means nothing to me in terms of a welder. Now an air compressor is a totally different animal!!! I want 100% duty cycle (oiled unit) for that.
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I will add that the duty cycle only will affect your work if you are welding near full capacity. Sheet metal needs short bursts or short welds at very low settings.
Welding structure like angle iron, will require longer welds at higher setting, and may get into the duty cycle.
I have a older Lincoln 100 (110v) with gas and have welded up to 3/16 mild steel, with multiple passes and yes, I did find the duty cycle and thermo protection limits..
98% of my weling is outer panels of rusty Mopars or brackets etc..
also