340 SB Roller Rockers

Yeah, I just happen to have personal experience with this. Unlike some, I don't post unless I have personal experience with subject at hand. I ran a complete season + with 1.6 rollers and compared to the numerous seasons that I ran with the the OEM 1.5 type rockers and the rockers that are currently installed on the car. I went from a best of 11.712 flat to a best with the 1.6 rollers to 11.698. I luckily found a rube for the rollers and sold them for about what I had in them (they weren't eBag specials either) and am still running with the MP stamped rockers.
A couple of other locals are are running with rollers on 440's and they also have gained nothing but are still running them because they have them. But you don't want to believe that so:
run what you want - beleive what you want. This exerpt from Hughes sight even if you don't believe writen words. They also wouldn't right it without back up knowledge seeing how they sell the parts. - In the late 50s the O.E.M. stamped rockers started to fail from the high spring pressure with the more aggressive camshafts and higher RPMs and so-called fully rollerized rockers were developed. For the most part, we are talking Chevys here but you've got to start somewhere. The needle roller bearings were used at the trunion because of the Chevy's problem of not having full engine oil pressure at that pressure point, like Mopars do. Needle roller bearings were used because they can operate with very little oil and no pressure, although they provide no friction reduction over a plain bearing surface. Most high RPM (14000 19000RPM) race engines use full oil pressure to these high stressed areas and use no needle bearings;they utilize a plain bearing type surface. Now this can mean anything from an aluminum rocker or steel rocker to something with a special surface treatment (conditioning) to a material like a D.L.C. (diamond like carbon) coating or some similar frictionless coating on the shaft and/or the rocker. The coated or treated rockers are definitely on the high dollar end of the group but they are the most durable and highest power deliverers, because of the reduced friction and harmonics. The needle bearing rockers are a fairly cost-effective solution but they have reduced life expectancy. All the pressure and shock in the valve train is concentrated on 1 or 2 needles at the most.


The rockers only rock in a small arc of approximately 25 or 30. If the rocker or the shaft actually rotated the needles would live longer. Here again is a conundrum. The smaller needles spread the load over more needles, but they are more fragile you just cant win! Some of the roller rockers even have needle rollers in the roller at the tip of the rocker. The unit loading is very high with needle bearings. All these extra parts are just more points of potential failure.
Oh yeah, I personally have seen them break and have little needle bearings scattered through the motor.

I will leave the debate as to whether or not there is any performance gains by going with roller rockers vs. the stamped OEM to others.

I will add that it is my understanding that the OEM may vary as to their true ratio. Perhaps this is due to manufacturing/quality control or wear over time etc. I seem to recall that they tend to vary and are oftentimes found to be <1.5.

The other consideration you may need to look at if you end up going with a roller rockers is the need to purchase a spacer kit as well. This cost additional $$ if that's a factor.

Good luck and hope you achieve the desired affects.

Thanks a lot for the good advises, MoparforLife.

Most what I'm concerned about is, as you noted, what happens if a bearing fails and loses a pieces straight into the engine. That's what I'm most afraid of. Did it happen? Is there something known?

The rattling noise I guess is coming from worn out rockers or shaft. Think I have to check this first. But they are now 30 years old. And why should I purchase a new OEM set if a Roller Rocker Set does cost similar?
Hm, I will ask a buddy if he does have a set for lend.
Cam is new, slightly hotter than stock 340, custom grinded to my car specs. Lifter & pushrods are new.

I not defenitly in need of roller rocker - I'm looking for "better than stock" because I have to change so I thought why not roller rocker.

Thanks again so far.

Yes they do break as I have posted above, I have seen it happpen, not just onece either.

You won't get a decent set of rollers for the price of a set of OEM rockers or a set of doctile iron adjustable rockers either for that matter. Like said above you will also need a set of push rods if you go with adjustable rockers. If you want adjustables get yourself a set of 273 rockers and a set of push rods for a engine with hydraulic lifters and adjustable rockers. OEM 273 mechanical push roda are way to long to use with hydraulic lifers.
If you are looking for wear on the rockers it is a going to be a tough call You will take off a cover and see that there is a large gap between the rocker shaft and the top of the rocker arm, this is completely normal and is that way new.
I would sure check out an see what kind of noise you are hearing. It could also be a exhaust leak.. A lot of people make this mistake.

make sure you dont have a new lifter going flat also

exhast leaks will make you think rockers/lifters are ticking,I chased it for yrs and it was exhast leak

It would be nice to get a set of Magnum roller tip rockers 1.52 ratio like the chebby and ferd guys have for less than $200. I'd buy 'em in a heartbeat(oops).

ok, I had this noise before and after I changed Lifter, pushrods and Cam. All came from the same shop which is http://www.buyperformanceparts.com/

I will check for an exhaust leak but I really can not imaging that it can sound that mechanical.

Furthermore I will check the Lifter again with pressing a hammer handle on the rockers while engine is running in idle.

Maybe it is a really good advise to have a look at 273 rockers. But I don't want them adjustable, keep the hydraulic lifter. Do these use cup-cup pushrods?

a small exhaust leak can sound like a mechanical tick, but it usually only happens under load. On my old 360, I did have a little valvetrain noise, nothing loud enough to be annoying, but you could hear it a little with the hood up. the rockers were tight on the shaft, no real noticable wear (egg shaped holes in the rocker, out of round shafts), but the rockers did have some freedom to slide sideways on the shaft, and I'm confident that was the sound I was hearing. some shims or light springs between the rockers, and the rockers and hold downs probably would have eliminated the noise.

setup was a comp XE262, stock pushrods, rockers, and shafts.

hm, isn't the sideplay not normal on stock rockers? they can slide millimeters sideways... After a lot of stress for my engine a few weekends ago the noise which was always there went a lot louder ( in idle but not that loud (compared to normal engine noise) in higher RPMs ).

But back to topic. I need more from your experiences with roller rockers. Are these also available with bushings insteasd of bearings. And are these worth it??

what are the exact cam specs? adv. dur, .050 dur, and lift?

unless it's quite large, you're wasting your money on roller or adjustible rockers.

I have a set of bushed stainless steel roller tipped rockers from RAS. But I bought it to be compatible with any future upgrades, the Edelbrock heads I bought had double springs on them, and I was advised they were too much for stock rockers.
If you're staying with a mild cam you don't need anything fancy. You can use stock style stamped, or mechanical style adjustable (can be bushed and ratio corrected by RAS).

Good luck,
Ran

I wouldn't run out and just buy any ol' rocker simply because it has rollers.

I was planning on running some Crane ductile 1.5's on my 383, with a roller cam that has .394" lobe lift (.591" at the valve) and uses moderate springs.

I found a couple were scored, and rather than have 'em bushed, I picked up a set of like-new Harland Sharp 1.7's that I found at a very, very good price. Not because my application NEEDED rollers, but because it was an upgrade in lift, and a good quality piece, for a good price.

But I wouldn't buy a cheap brand rocker, period.

-Bill

I would tend to agree that you could use a new set of rockers do to metal fatigue if you are runnignin with the original rockers. A set of the HD stamped (I run consistamt 11.40's with them) with your push rods or a set of 273 or other doctile iron rockers and push rods for a hydraulic cammed engine with adjustable rockers will sork just fine. DON'T Go with the elcheapo eBay type rollers to save a buck. Good rollers are spendy and I have seen them come appart.

Yeah I am up earl but usually am with chores to do. Also am home alone. Wife went to Minneapolis to help with my daughter and husband take care of our 2 year old Grand daughter that fractured her leg. Real nasty break. But any back to subject on hand-
The HD rockers are like the OEM rockers but heavier in crosssection in the pushrod area to aleviate breakage. Some write ups say this is not true but they are working for me and for many others. I run dual springs installed at 1.80 on a .540/.557 lift cam.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopper13.html
Saves you purchasing push rods too. I also have a set of adjustable 273 rockers and a set of correct push rods laying here that I may some day use but they have been here for about 5 years now and still under the bed.
Hey listen I am not telling you not to buy what ever you wish to buy. If you want to buy rollers and are more comfortable with them by all means go for it. Do what ever you feel better doing.

It seems the quality of the hd stamped rockers is hit and miss. A friend of mine has broke rockers out of two sets. Both sets were new and only had a few miles and 1/8 mile passes on them. The ones that broke all broke out the push rod cup. The cam was .509, single springs with dampers. Good luck .

today I bought Comps Roller rockers : CCA-1322-16 SBM PRO MAGNUM STEEL 1.5 RATIO

Found the reason for the noise now. Different valve stem lenghts. Intake pushrods tight, exhaust loose. or vice versa, don't know yet. But it's now repaired and will get the heads tomorrow.

Can you guys imagine that the rocker set above does cost more than USD 87o.00 in Germany??? And that was a good over...