Ziebart Removal

I have been in the coatings industry for years and have done alot of work with ziebart dealers. A heat induction unit work best with a putty knife. See if a local body shop or Rhino Linings dealer will rent you theirs.

The stuff they give you for overspray works to soften it. Surprise its just kerosene

took mine off complete with air chisel set at low psi knocked that stuff right off .

Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate it very much.

This will work


Seriously, what about diesel?

I second the Steam cleaner as the ultimate factory undercoating removal tool. I like the fact that you don't remove anything but the undercoating and grime, the original paint and primer remains intact unless you actually try to remove it as well (which you can).

With aftermarket Ziebart drilled and squirted into doors and other inaccessible areas dipping the car would be about the only way you'll get rid of it all.

.02

Probably the best way doing it at home. I've seen Scott's car first hand and his blaster did a good job getting all the crud off the bottom of his car.

Another option is dustless blasting. (One note. If you go with the dustless blasting option don't do it at home. Creates a big mess that has to be cleaned up. Do it at the vendors location.) We went with that and it took us two days to clean up the mess.

In the early 70's I was given a test kit for Tectyl. It was made by Ashland Oil part of Valvoline. The guy gave me test metals. One bare and one coated with their product. I was instructed to sit them outside for 2 weeks. Of course the bare metal rusted and the coated sample did not. After 2 weeks he I was instructed to scrape off an area of the coated piece and put it back outside. The area I scraped off never did rust. The claim was that the product penetrated the metal. It sure seemed to. The Ashland Oil rep. mixed up a case in aerosol cans to match my silver 68 RR at the time and gave it to me. As a daily driver in Pa. winters it never did rust where it was applied. He said that Tectyl is chemical name of what was marketed as Ziebart. I recently had a 69 RR that had a very rusty trunk floor, upon removing it I could still see and smell the Ziebart in the frame rails. They were still perfect. I cannot offer any advice on how to remove it if it did penetrate the metal.

I've had luck with a putty knife and propane torch. But expect wear and rear to any paint underneath.

THIS!

I have done it this way with two vehicles. The quickest and cleanest way to do it. The stuff comes off in large chunks.

Ziebart is different than undercoating in that it is more like a heavy film coating. Sometimes it can remain gummy for decades. When I found it on my car I was happy to leave it in place. I would agree with those using gasoline or something like it to soften it. I have never seen it thick enough or dry enough to scrape or chisel it off.