440 turbo cam?

Can any one tell me what cam to use on 440 .060 over 8.5-1 comp with twin holset 35 turbos ?

Sounds like a question for board member "feets". You might try PMing him.

You could start with the stock 440 cam for a baseline, the stock cams typically do well in turbo applications. You could also check a few of the big manufacturers for recommendations. Crower has two turbo-specific grinds for small blocks, which I ASSume you could have ground on big block blanks. I wasn't shopping for big block stuff back when I was doing my turbo research, so you'll have to check on that yourself.
Crower PN 31978
Crower PN 31978

They might even want to brew up something a little hotter than these two for a 440, although it's tough to go too mild on a turbo cam.

FWIW, I was planning on a single HX-40 for my 318. On paper it was making 400hp/425lbft at 8psi with the -78 cam, and 450hp/430lbft with the -79 cam. I've been using Ray Hall's site for tinkering. Desk Top Dyno 2000 seems to have some "issues" with turbo applications, even for a go-by.

Clair

i think my comp cams would work good!.550int,565 exh,230@.050,113 lsa installed 2 deg adv.
do you want a hydrolic?how much boost for a given hp you are looking for.blowthrough carbed?street or dual st.strip?

Check with FEETS. He has done a boatload of research on 440 tubos while building his twin turbo set up.

I laid out my cam and had Comp Cams cut it for me.
intake 236* @ .050" with .474" lift
exhaust 232* @ .050" with .483" lift
112 LSA and 10* of overlap at .050"
It's a rather interesting lobe. It uses fast ramps to hang the valve open longer and drops 'em quickly when closing. It's got a fairly fat lope peak for a non-roller cam.

I originally wanted zero overlap but that would have taken a custom blank. I agreed to let 'em move the lobes and add a touch of overlap to use a standard blank and cut down the cost. I paid $182 for the cam in 2001. I don't think the cost has gone up much since then.
It's a fairly nice cam. Smooth idle and good cylinder pressure. A side effect is better economy when not in the turbos.

There have been some advances in turbo cam technology in the past 5 years. You'll find more cams being cut with a taller exhaust lobe the evacuate the cylinders better. The duration is cut down to prevent reversion because you're not going to get any exhaust scavenging with a turbo building backpressure in the header. LSA has moved around a bit but seems to stay at 112 to 114 for most motors.
DO NOT use a blower cam. They're not the same and will not be happy when saddled with a turbo.
Unless someone is really going radical, you're not going to find many big cams in the turbo world. You simply build a mild engine that moves air smoothly. It's not necessary to hog out the heads within an inch of their lives. You simply make sure the air can get in and out with a minimum of fuss. Look at mid lift numbers and ignore everything over .500" lift. You're not going up there so don't waste your time. Those big number heads can have horrible low speed air behavior and that's what you want to avoid.

Make it smooth, mild, and cram the air in. You'd be suprised what you'll get.
My stock 906 head combo with a Torker II intake and this cam managed to crank out 657 hp and 742 tq at the wheels using a nicely massaged 850 carb, 17 psi, and alcohol sprayed through a nitrous style needle.

I don't know what it'll do with EFI. Hopefully I won't over time the engine and rattle the head gasket out like I did on that last run.

Quote:

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I laid out my cam and had Comp Cams cut it for me.
intake 236* @ .050" with .474" lift
exhaust 232* @ .050" with .483" lift
112 LSA and 10* of overlap at .050"
It's a rather interesting lobe. It uses fast ramps to hang the valve open longer and drops 'em quickly when closing. It's got a fairly fat lope peak for a non-roller cam.

I originally wanted zero overlap but that would have taken a custom blank. I agreed to let 'em move the lobes and add a touch of overlap to use a standard blank and cut down the cost. I paid $182 for the cam in 2001. I don't think the cost has gone up much since then.
It's a fairly nice cam. Smooth idle and good cylinder pressure. A side effect is better economy when not in the turbos.

There have been some advances in turbo cam technology in the past 5 years. You'll find more cams being cut with a taller exhaust lobe the evacuate the cylinders better. The duration is cut down to prevent reversion because you're not going to get any exhaust scavenging with a turbo building backpressure in the header. LSA has moved around a bit but seems to stay at 112 to 114 for most motors.
DO NOT use a blower cam. They're not the same and will not be happy when saddled with a turbo.
Unless someone is really going radical, you're not going to find many big cams in the turbo world. You simply build a mild engine that moves air smoothly. It's not necessary to hog out the heads within an inch of their lives. You simply make sure the air can get in and out with a minimum of fuss. Look at mid lift numbers and ignore everything over .500" lift. You're not going up there so don't waste your time. Those big number heads can have horrible low speed air behavior and that's what you want to avoid.

Make it smooth, mild, and cram the air in. You'd be suprised what you'll get.
My stock 906 head combo with a Torker II intake and this cam managed to crank out 657 hp and 742 tq at the wheels using a nicely massaged 850 carb, 17 psi, and alcohol sprayed through a nitrous style needle.

I don't know what it'll do with EFI. Hopefully I won't over time the engine and rattle the head gasket out like I did on that last run.

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to me the cams look cept mine has more exh lift that u recamend and more lift which i feel is better then boost heat.i can see going hydrolic but the spring pressure u need is greater so a good mech valve assy is need anyways.
i just wanted to point out the simalerities of the cams not debate them.
!.550int,565 exh,230@.050,113 lsa installed 2 deg adv.

AKA"ZOOM"