A4 Silver Color - Whats close?? BC/CC

Just got some EL5 Butterscotch mixed up in a spray can for my 71 Charger (original color) and the local Sikkens dealer (Werner-Nielson in New London, Ct) didn't have a match to the original code numbers I gave them so the "Got it as close as they could".



It looks more "Musturdy" than Butterscotch.

Sorry to Hijack your thread, but the advice i'm seeing here seems to be go with a PPG brand of paint if I want to be absolutely correct.

I've seen some crappy, dull EL5's, unlike the awesome look of Bigblock340's duster in the desert sun.

This (Pic) is what i'm after, much nicer than even the original paint I see under the carpet:

Every year of A4 is different. Here is my 73 version. Too add fuel to the fire, its Speis-Heckler. Still looks great after 10 years and I really don't care for it the way I should.

I completely agree with Dave, the very last place you should try to save money is the paint. Anything else you can just unbolt fix and re attach. Paint has to be right, and has to last or every dime you spent for the entire paint and body process is waisted. I know 100's of guys who I can ask when I look at their cars after they are painted, and they are not just beeming with pride, would you spend an extra $500.00 to love your paint job? They all say YES!

IN my 35 years of restoring cars the Paint job is without a doubt the most critical part of any restoration.

I'd say paint it the color you are happy with. If your intent is to go original, then go to it....but verify that it IS the original color.
It was never in question that I wanted original and I got it. The paint's been on for 8 years, and I still have the same feeling.
But, If you have question about color, answer that question b4 you decide. There is really nothing worse than expecting something but getting something different.

This is what i used on my orig. numbers matching 69 A-4 RR. PPG DCB3696 1969 OEM A-4 Deltron 2000 Name on the can reads Chateau Silver Met. Car was painted around 1996. I took this imfo off the can of paint that was left over. The numbers may have changed. If it was me, I'd go with PPG. It will look green under some light conditions. Silver or Gray under others.

Seams like you need to make up your mind. I understand. The smaller question I had on mine. I love the 68 drk blue metallic.....but I went with orig. Looking back, I made the right choice....but I still love the other color.
PPG seams to be the ticket for duplicating colors. So BC/CC sould be the same as original.
So the question is can you live with the color for 10 years. Go there and you may have the answers.

A4 PPG Deltron and yes it does look like it has a green tint to it.

Is every year A4 really different? Any pics of 1971 A4? My '71 twister is A4 and Im really thinking about going back A4 on it.

Id say it would look great. A4 with the black stripes is what it's coded for.

Ive never seen a twister in A4. I dont recall even seeing one car at the last mopar show that was in A4. Good reason enough to go with that

So here is my outlook on color.

Before painting the car ALWAYS DO A SPRAY OUT!!! Don't just look at the color in the can or a mix stick you dipped in the can. Clear the spray out with the same clear you intend to use on the car for best results. Verify the color first do not take someone’s word that theirs was perfect who knows what they are comparing to. Do not assume that it was mixed right. If you don’t and you just rock on don’t cry when it doesn’t match and you have sprayed the whole car.

Be aware that color varied (and still does) from plant to plant and day to day for a number of reasons. These reasons can affect the color as you spray as well making a color lighter or darker. Gun distance, type of gun, fluid nozzle, reducer and reduction just to name a few. Even if it was PPG or DuPont or RM that was providing the paint to the OEM’s in the 60’s and 70’s it was lacquer or enamel and most assuredly a single stage. Due to EPA regulations many pigments containing lead have gone away and now we have many more pigments to choose from not to mention more grinds of metallics and pearls. Due to the changes in pigments and resins (the carrier of the pigment) on some colors an “exact” duplication may be challenging but not impossible. Also base clear is going to look crisper and cleaner. Why all this because now all paint companies have to try to match the old original colors. It doesn’t just swap over there’s no magical conversion that works 100%. We now have technology to help like the spectrophotometers (color cameras) but they are not a guarantee (DO A SPRAYOUT!)The European brands are a little behind the curve on this with concern to American made vintage cars. However we don't have a lot of info for old Ferrari's. This does not mean that someone with a good eye for color that knows the system they are using can not dial the color in painters do this every day in collision shops around the US. As for what brand to use if someone is going to stand behind their paint job have them spray what they are comfortable with. I have sprayed numerous products and I can make them all look good but I do have my favorites even within the brand I spray (DuPont) I have some favorite products that I feel make for a GREAT paint job. Take your time an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure or a few bucks in trial and error beat the heck out of many hundreds in redo!!!

If you have a color that’s close and you like it better than the original for what ever reason go for it! It’s your car. And if there is some characteristic you don’t like in a color or do like you painter or the paint store may be able to tweak it and get you the color you want. Bluer, redder, greener, more metallic you name it. There was an awsome T5 Bronze car that a guy tweaked in Utah last year by changing metalics and adding some pearl! Just keep track of what you do when tinting.

Sorry I got carried away.
Geno

Looking at the DuPont formula there is some green in there for the 69 and 70 formulation.

WOw Geno!! Thanks for gettin carried away!!
I like the A4 alot....still might go with the original F8.
Like I said earlier, this is my first really nice resto, and I want it to be as close to perfect as possible.
I appreciate all the info, and especially the opinions of the professionals like resto-rick, Geno, MoparMike, and whoever else chimed in.
This website is such a great help!!!
Thanks a ton guys...
Now....A4??....F8??

Went to see the car tonite, its almost completely stripped.

Thanks,

I guess if its a full on RESTORATION and it was originaly F8 you should go F8. If you are going to change up other parts of the car and keep and enjoy it go whith what ever you like better. I like both a lot if nothing else go F6 and get the best of both. Is there any color left on the car that was original to match to?