Tremec experts? Keisler guys maybe? ...AGAIN!

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I built a wicked 351 windsor Mustang and he put a tko 600 in it. Have problems hitting 3rd gear at 7200 rpms, called tremec and they said we were over revving the engine and it aint gonna go into 3rd that high of an rpm. We've got it stuck in 2nd many times too. Put a shifter with adjustable stops on it to prevent that, but still missing 3rd on the spray aint pretty, thank God for rev limiters. Doubt ya did any damage, but be easy with it.

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The biggest issue when going from a 4 speed to a TKO is retraining yourself how to shift a 5 speed.
On a 4 speed, when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, you push the stick up, over and up again. If you do that with a TKO, you will have the same results you experienced. The gates are so close together on the TKO, you literally have to re-learn how to shift. Next time, when in 2nd, simply slam the stick straight forward and it will automatically find 3rd on it's own. On my Mustang(with a TKO) I use this technique and I do not miss the gear ever. I use the palm of my hand at about the 7:00 position on the ball and slam it forward from there. Practice this technique under normal driving conditions until you are comfortable with it and then try to power shift it. I think you'll see an immediate difference right off the bat.

Also keep in mind, the TKO doesn't like shifts upwards of 6000K so my technique may or may not work if you are attempting to shift above that limit.

Let me know how that worked out for you.


Richard
Tech Support

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my shifter is red anodized.

how much will this cost me?

note: this is not a keisler kit, and I haven't sent any money to Keisler--I put this into a big block Dakota, which Keisler does not make a kit for. I only put keisler in the title since they seem to be the most experienced TKO folks on the board.

glad to know that I didn't damage anything and that it happens to others too.

now...how much is that newer shift mechanism?

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I know you are not our customer, as I have said in the past, I am here to help any and all who need it regardless if you purchased from us or not.

The external shift stops are made of billet aluminum and sell for $49.95. Pretty cheap when you consider that it will prevent you from over shifting the transmission and possibly(not likely) damaging the transmission in the process.

I have 24 of them in stock and can ship anywhere you want.

I didn't see any instructions when I was looking for them but it is simple to setup. Keep in mind, this only works on the red Tremec tower. When looking at the top of the shifter tower, you have 2 straps with 2 starhead screws in each, holding them down to the tower itself. You will remove both straps and the black ring underneath it and install the billet shift stop. When you remove the 2 straps, there are 2 springs, 1 under each strap, be sure to leave those in place. bolt the billet shift stop down and you are done. To set the stops correctly, with the engine off, put the transmission in 3rd gear, back the head of the bolt out(towards the shifter stub) until it just contacts the stub and then lock down the nut so it cannot move. Next, put the transmission in 4th gear and do the same thing. Back the head of the bolt out(towards the stub) until it just contacts the stub and then tighten up the locknut. You are now done. Replace the shift handle and go drive it.

Let me know if I can answer any more questions.


Richard
Tech Support

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i have a tko500 in my b body no problems banging 1st to 2nd however, as richard stated 2nd to 3rd takes a little practice. i only rev to 5800 so i have not had any shifting problems. as a matter of fact i spoke with richard today about my shift tower and he is sending me a 3rd gen shift tower. he's been the best to contact and work with at keisler. thanks again richard.

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superbirdclone....I packed up your tower yesterday myself and turned the paperwork into accounting. It will be shipping today.

I went one step further and bolted the tower to a new base plate for you. This way, all you have to do is remove the 4 bolts on your baseplate and pull the tower and plate up and off the transmission. Put a bead of silicone on around the edge of the new base plate and bolt it back down.

As I said on the phone, this new tower will solve your issues you told me about as well as feel night and day different from your current shifter. This one is much tighter and is spring loaded so that it will give it a more positive feel and crisper engagement when shifting.

Let me know how it worked out after you've installed it and drove it.


Richard
Tech Support

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here's another question for you...Why is my TKO easier to shift when I DON'T use the clutch, than when I use it?

if I shift without the clutch, I just have to wait a split second for the RPMs to come down and it shifts like butter. smooth, almost effortless--just no fast powershifts when doing this.

but if I use the clutch, the shift effort is much higher, and that's why I jammed it in 2nd gear the other day--I was putting some "grunt" into the shift and put a little too much into it.

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hmpf, ok. I just wondered because it was such a dramatic difference compared to other modern cars that I've driven--they are all equally, if not actually easier, to shift with the clutch than without. so when this transmission was the opposite, I didn't understand why.

but then again, the newer cars that I'm refering to, all made less than 200 hp and had wimpy transmissions.

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dangit. I did it again. I have proven to myself that I am clearly an idiot who should reconsider his choice of hobby.

I overshifted again...ok I thought, no big deal, I'll just yank it out of gear, afterall, shifting too far, too hard got it there, surely a good tug on it will pop it out of gear. yea, and straight into 1st gear again.

anyway, after much yanking since I was too lazy to pull over and try to fix it correctly, something let go.

here's what I found: (see attachment)

it's off the 3/4 fork and is easilly replaceable.

problem is, where did the missing tab go? what's the easiest way to fish it out of the gear box? or should I remove the tailshaft?

I looked down and cannot see it anywhere, even after draining the fluid. how do I get it out of there without dropping the transmission for a dis-assemble? (if there is no way, then I'll drop the transmission for a disassemble and maybe a syncro upgrade at the same time.)

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Looks like you broke the 3/4 shift dog. If the piece is on the bottom of the trans, the only way I know to get it out is dis-assemble the trans. You might be better off sending me the trans, and letting my guys fix it. I will also install the shift stops and set them while it's here. Let me know if you are interested.


Richard

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estimated cost and turn around time for that? I'd like to get it fixed as quickly and easilly as possible. I can throw a new fork in there in about 5 minutes, and just need to work on getting the tab out.

but, I'd have to ship it both ways, so that's probably $200, plus the $50 shifter, plus labor to disassemble, reassemble, set up, etc. this sounds like a quick ticket to spend $500-$800

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Shipping from Ohio, probably around $60 each way. 1 hr labor time at $69 and $50 for the shift stop installed comes out to roughly $240. Just an offer for you that's all. I am willing to ship it under our FedEx account to save you money. My guys can tear down a TKO in less than 20 minutes. Besides that, if we do the repair, then it is warrantied if, gosh forbid, something goes wrong.
I am just trying to help out, like I always do. Let me know.

Richard

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are you telling me that I need to drive this truck like it's a bently?

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These kind of Bentleys tend to be driven hard.

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that's actually not too bad.

what about turn around time? how long will it take you to get to it, once it gets to your shop?

I suppose I'll make things more complicated, if I'm paying someone to take it apart, should I upgrade the syncro's while I'm at it? I've heard about having these "pro-shifted" ...something to do with the syncros that makes them much easier to shift. I read in the other thread about the iron vs bronze syncros, and RPMs are not a factor...my big block stroker has a hydraulic flat tappet cam, so I run out of revs at around 6200, and I'm running a stock electronic ignition with orange box, which supposedly will only fire 6000 rpm worth of spark. do I even need upgraded syncros?

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