Holley 2245 carb flooding like crazy and stalling!!!!!

1979 Dodge B300 extended cargo van.
5.9 LA360 Holley 2245/2210 2bbl carb.

Ok I'm back unfortunately!
I was here about a week ago with a fuel pump issue... I replaced it and the van has been running like a champ but then today I was driving around on my property and I stopped the van, put it in reverse and it stalled out and wouldn't start back up for like 5-10 mins!
I eventually found that there was a ton of fuel leaking out of the bottom gasket so I figured it's flooding and that's why it stalls and then runs again a little while later after it's evaporated so upon further investigation and having taken the air filter off to get a better look I could see that the barrels are basically filling up with fuel because the fuel won't stop pouring out of the nozzles(I'm not sure but I think that's what they're called) after shutting off the engine!!!!!!!
I thought that maybe I just needed to readjust the carb because the new fuel pump is just a beast and I had it set to the old crappy pump and maybe it is related to the issue I'm having with the carb but I don't know...
I rebuilt the carb about a couple of years ago and haven't driven the van much since then but it's been running "like new" and because my daily driver is being worked on I've had to start driving the van! Some of you know my situation and know I'm really far from any store so I can't just run to the store to buy a replacement of anything and money is an issue..
I may have a spare gasket and worst case scenario I have a few sheets of different gasket material incase I need to make one but man, I really don't want to do that but I expect some of you are going to tell me I'll have to take the top part of the carb off because it looks like the problem is going to be in the bowl maybe? Maybe the float is stuck or .... Idk what it could be.....

So basically it will stall out at idle and the with the motor off the fuel will continue to pour out of the nozzles and won't stop for about a minute! It's a lot of fuel coming out of there into the barrels! Sometimes it's both nozzles and sometimes it's just one side!!!! What could it be????

You’ve got a bad needle and seat or something hung in it so it can’t shut off the fuel with your New pump. Don’t run it obviously. Now you have the fuel diluted with gas and will wash down your rings and cause excessive wear. It needs a carb rebuild and a new filter. If that does not work, vheck the fuel pressure of you pump. It may be overpowering the needle and seat. And change the oil.

I literally just replaced the oil and filter because of the new pump! This is so frustrating! I don't want to drop another $45 on oil and another filter!! I can't even get to the store!
Why a rebuild? Can't I just take the top off and replace those components in the bowl??? It was just rebuilt with new parts! I feel like the pump is causing this issue! It was running perfect!

Well, I'm pretty much screwed if I can't drive my van! I'm broke and need to get to work tomorrow! I'm going to take the top off the carb today and see what I find..... I may be lucky enough to have an extra gasket in one of the old used carb kits I used when I originally rebuilt it...
Oh! I also replaced the fuel inlet compression fitting with a new one! Maybe the inner diameter is larger than the original and it's allowing more fuel into the bowl???
Not sure how to check the fuel pressure.... I might have the necessary gauges to check it and obviously I'll have to disconnect the line from the back of the carb and attach the gauge there and from cranking it that'll tell me the pressure right??

Thanks for the help btw...

Which filter exactly?

if it ran fine after the pump change, then yeah pop the top off.
check the float, see if it sank, sometimes they get pin hole leaks and fill up. that would cause it to not regulate the fuel and you would see what you are seeing.
also if some junk got pushed into the seat of the needle that the float pushes against, it would prevent it from seating and allow fuel to do what you saw.
I would probably pull the line to the carb at the same time and see if something broke loose, or got flushed into the carb from the old bad pump.
if it just started this after changing the pump, it could be a pressure issue, depending on what pump you put in.
stock replacement shouldn't have this issue, but others may require a regulator.

It has less than 1000 miles on a rebuilt carb! It's been running great!
The pump I replaced the old one with is a Delphi Fuel Pump AMF0048 and it has a flow rate of 25 gph! That's the stock replacement from AutoZone! Ran great for about 150 miles and then this happened!
Hopefully it's just debris that's keeping the needle from seating!

My bet is there was some foreign material in the new pump or you accidentally got something in the line when replacing the pump. I would pull the top and clean out the needle and seat. Also check the float to see if its to heavy. Composite can absorb fuel and additives and become heavy. Brass can develop a hole and fill with fuel. I still think something is holding the needle and seat open.

Yeah it's possible! You know, one detail I didn't mention is there's about a foot section of rubber fuel line that runs from the steel line on the frame to the inlet of the fuel pump and when I got the new oil and filter after the pump change I picked up about a foot of new line... Yesterday before the issue with the carb flooding I tried to replace that section of line but couldn't because the guy gave me the wrong line and the ID was too small so I just put the old one back on there but I was struggling to try and get the new line on there and because of where I live there's a ton of mudd and clay under my vehicles! I tried to be as careful as possible to prevent debris from getting in but.....It's most likely that's what happened and I got debris in the line and it got in the carb because after messing with the line is when I went on a test drive and that's when I had the issue with the carb flooding!!!! That's most likely what happened!

If I remember correctly the float is a brass one that looks like it had been repaired.... Assuming it's not debris in the bowl and incase it's the float... Can I repair the float with solder???

You left out the most important detail. What you did was your most important clue to your problem.

Ok so obviously I'll be taking the top plate off the carb today and incase I can't salvage the gasket or have a spare one can I seal it with some 90 minute gasket maker????
Like I mentioned before, I have a few sheets of gasket material for making gaskets but that's going to be a tedious task that I'd rather not get into....

I know! Sorry! I didn't even realize it until you mentioned it!!! Oh I hope that's all it is!! It's what makes the most sense!

pull the inlet line and the part that line bolts to first.
that should let you pull the needle out from that side. and see if there is garbage in there before you have to pull the top.
if you can get it cleaned up there, it will save you gasket time.

Wrong. Not on that style carb.

I have the Holley manual and I see what you mean! Yeah that may work! Thanks for the suggestion!!
The funny thing is when I swapped out the inlet fitting I noticed the manual shows it's supposed to have a filter/spring in the fitting itself but there wasn't one and I checked all my old carb rebuild boxes to see if any came with a filter but no luck so I left it as is because I had been driving it for years without it! I would've put a filter in if I had access to one but... That probably would've prevented this issue(assuming it is debris)!

Dangit! Looks like you're correct!! The needle is located just inside the inlet orifice but because of the float and needle assembly you can't just pull the needle out that way and most likely not enough space to access it properly anyway....

Main reason is the needle and seat mounts vertical not horizontal. So its at a 90 degree angle to the inlet fitting and with that being said there is no way to get it out. I do not know what manual you are using but I have never seen an inlet screen or filter on that model carb.

Sorry, thought it was a Holley manual but it's a Haynes manual on Holley carbs...
The exploded view of the carb actually refers to carb models 2210, 2211 and (model 2245 similar) so maybe my carb(2245) in particular never had one but it sure looks like a filter/spring would fit in there and if I can find one I'd like to i stall it....

Found the culprit! The bowl has lot's of debris in it as well!!!! Looks like pieces of rubber hose from the new hose I was trying to force over the end of the metal line on the frame! The rubber hose was too small of an ID!
I'm gonna syphon the fuel out of the bowl and clean it out as best as possible! I'm also going to turn the motor over with the line detached to see if more debris comes out of the line!
Any other suggestions????

I know I'll probably have to change the oil again! I estimate about at least half a cup of fuel made it down the intake!

Looks like I'll also be able to reuse the gasket!!!
Anything else I should do??

Ok so I just want to be clear! The problem was debris at the tip of the inlet needle and it was my fault for trying to force the smaller diameter fuel line over the end of the metal line which created a whole bunch of shavings that made it into the carb!
It appears that nothing got into the jets and all the pieces of line settled at the bottom of the bowl!
I'm gonna get this thing cleaned up and reassembled and I should be good to go but I still have to drive 45 miles to buy new oil and a filter! There's no chance I can get away with a partial oil change?? I have maybe two quarts of fresh stuff laying around.... At least maybe that will help me get to the store and lower the risk of damaging the motor??

pull the dipstick and smell it, see how thin it is.
you might get away with it, but if it is really bad, and you judged the amount wrong, you could do serious damage.
you might be able to pull off doing a partial drain and fill but again depends on how bad it is
you might be able to judge based on how much higher it is on the dipstick than when you changed it since it was so recent.

$45 for oil change is going to look small if you end up paying for a tow, or repairing engine damage...

I actually had 5 quarts at home so I didn't have to drive anywhere but I worked diligently all morning cleaning and everything and guess what?? It's still happening!!!!!!
Before reassembling it I turned the motor over with the line detached from the carb and flushed out about 16 oz of fuel into a clear bottle and it looked good!
I slapped it all back together and it's still stalling and I looked in the carb and fuel's still pouring out of the nozzles for a few seconds!!!!!!
I feel so defeated right now!!!!!
I'm gonna take a break, eat some food and go back out there and do it all again!!!!!
I don't know what else to do! I had it perfectly cleaned!

At least now I know I can keep talking it apart without destroying the gasket! That's the only upside to this!

I know, I had 5quarts laying around and I changed it before reassembling and firing it back up just to have the same issue and more fuel pour down the intake!!!!! I'm having neighbors pick up more oil for me!

it might actually be your old line breaking up inside.
depending on how old it is.
it could be the new fuel pump.
it could be crud hung up in some part of the line that broke loose when you put it back in place.
it could also be something that was still inside the carb in the passage where it turns down to hit the needle.
just clean it up again and see what you see.

Just took the top off again and yes! More of the same freakin rubber hose shavings stuck at the needle inlet.... Here's a picture of the debris I just found!! It's just that little piece and nothing else! The bowl is as spotless as I left it!
I spent 7 hrs on it this morning!!!! I even ran 16ozs of fuel into a plastic bottle to see if there was more debris in the line and it came out clean!!!! Wish I could just put a little filter in the fuel inlet like the diagram shows!!!! At least that would prevent fuel down the intake even if it gets clogged!
I need to be more diligent with the cleaning because somehow I missed this piece!!!!
I think it was lingering somewhere between the line I tried to replace and the carb!!!! I might try back flushing that section! There may even be some more debris stuck in the pump itself!!!! Wish I could put a filter before the carb!

I don't think it's the old line breaking up! It's actually not that bad I just wanted to put a new line in! It's still the same rubber from the new hose I mangled!

you might pull the carb off the car and leave the top off, hook up the fuel line and crank on the car to force fuel all the way through.
that way you don't put more into the oil, unless you didn't change it yet.
and can catch any more stuff that comes in.

since you have a rubber line, cut it at the middle and toss a filter in there. nothing says you can't.
you might eventually go find some pipe adapters to make a place you can add a filter at the inlet of the carb.

I looked inside the old hose and yes it's bad! Looks like it's coming apart in there!!!
I'm just gonna cut the steel line somewhere between the pump and carb and install a filter!!!!!
Wish I had the filter that's suppose to go in the inlet fitting!!! That would make things easier!!!
Any objections???
Fyi incase you didn't read my previous posts I live 45 miles from the auto parts store and no I can't get a ride!
I'm lucky I have spare hose and a filter!
I'd try and back flush the pump but I feel like I won't be able to get all the debris out and eventually will get little bits working their way out over time so the filter is going to be 100% necessary!!!

This flared end is actually what's causing the debris!!!! It's sharp and every time I slide the hose over it it cuts/shaves it!!! The new line that was too small and the old line which is actually still in good shape inside!!!
If I could just go to Ace hardware ans get a barbed fitting for the carb I would but that's not an option! I'm going to look to see if I have anything that will work but if I don't I'm cutting the metal line somewhere between the pump and carb!

File the sharp edges off the fitting and use the correct size hose.. It's flared for a reason. It's to keep the rubber line from sliding off. Still needs to be clamped.

Ok, if I pull the carb off and I'm relying on the starter motor to run the pump I can only create so much pressure through the line and why have it hooked up to the carb if the debris is coming from the line before the pump? Having the line hooked up to the carb is only gonna send debris into the carb again. The carb is clean and I already ran fuel through the line using that method by cranking it with the line detached and it was running clean! The only way to increase the pressure through the line to dislodge stuck debris is to have it all hooked up completely to rev the engine and increase the pump cycles. The higher rpm's is what dislodged that last little piece.... I really don't understand why I'd take the carb off..... Besides, doing that will most likely destroy the gasket between the intake and carb! I don't see the point in that and not gonna risk it!

The filter needs to be after the pump not before the pump, which is where the section of rubber line is. Throwing a filter in there won't filter out the debris that's already made it into the pump... The filter needs to go between the pump and the carb which is one solid metal line!

I'm a little skeptical now of cutting the metal line and installing the filter because non of the ends that I cut will have flared ends and even though I planned on double clamping the hose I'm worried the pressure will force the connections apart. I'm not sure how much pressure this fuel pump makes but I also run the same risk with the filter because the only filter I have is a small plastic one that also doesn't have flared/barbed ends... I feel like this fuel system won't create enough pressure to separate the connections that don't have flared ends but I'm not sure so this plan will be last resort!

No matter if I find some barbed connectors to allow a rubber line I still have a crappy little plastic filter without flared/barbed ends and still run the risk of pressure separating it! i also don't have enough fuel hose to run it from the pump to the carb so really my only option with that is to cut the metal line and use that as my connections...

Since the carb diagram shows there's a space for a small filter in the inlet fitting what I'm gonna do is look for a small screen and install it in the fitting! That will keep the issue from happening and will be easy enough to take apart and clean out if it gets clogged!

I did that after finding it and yes I know why lines are flared... A flaring tool is on my list of tools I need but don't have it yet! I can probably make some sort of tool or contraption to flare the ends but I still only have a cheap little plastic filter without barbed/flared ends...
Do you think there's enough pressure in this system to blow the connections without flared ends apart??? It's risky but it might work!

I'm gonna look for a small screen or something to put in the inlet connector at the carb to filter out debris! That's probably my best option at this point...

If you have a fuel filter after that line you replaced it should have caught whatever you shaved off changing hoses. But at least you found the problem.
I've never had one of those carbs that ran right for too long they were always very picky with changes in weather.

I don't have a filter there and that's the point otherwise I wouldn't be in this mess! Trying to switch out one foot of fuel line turned into a nightmare because the flared end of the metal line attached to the frame was too sharp!
This van didn't run great from the get go because of the carb but it wasn't the carbs fault it just needed a little tlc and eventually I rebuilt it which had and still has this van running like new! It's a world of difference and the issue at hand isn't the carb itself, it's the debris caused by the sharp flared end on the metal line!

I have the exploded diagram(picture a few posts back) for this carb and it shows there's a cavity inside the carb where the inlet connector goes where there's supposed to be a spring/filter combo to prevent just this! I have a spring and metal screen(pictured) that will go in there perfectly and that's what I'm about to do! That's going to be the best solution at the moment! If there is more debris in the line/pump the screen will catch it and if it clogs it will be easy to clean out until all the debris is gone! It's what's supposed to be there according to the diagram!

it doesn't increase pressure based on rpm. volume but not pressure.
carbs are basically blocking the fuel pump pressure with a float pushing against a rubber needle seat.
if pressure increased it would be able to push past it. which is why holley's want a regulator to keep it under 12 or 7 psi, can't remember the number.

pulling the carb was to allow for fuel dumping without it going into the intake. nothing more. just trying to save your oil if you had just changed it already.
that gasket under the carb is usually not damaged unless you used some kind of sealant, which you should not have.

for future reference, if you rebuild a carb use chapstick on the gaskets. they don't stick if you have to pull it apart again.

and as for cutting a line, I would think it would be easier to add a filter in the middle vs getting an extra line for the other side, but that may still not make sense.

Yeah I get it, I appreciate the suggestion... I might have to do that because I did put new oil in it before the last fire up which dislodged one piece of debris probably from the pump and I did get more fuel down the intake but not as much as before so this oil still might be good idk... My neighbors did bring me more oil though just in case!

Cutting the line in half and adding a filter there was what I was saying not getting another line... I hesitate to do it because I'm not sure if there's enough pressure in this system to cause the non-flared ends from being blown apart! I don't have a flaring tool and either way the filter I have doesn't have barbed ends so it would be the same risk of the connections coming apart because of the pressure!

Here's what I ended up doing... Based off the diagram and the filter that's suppose to be in the chamber behind the inlet fitting I in order put a spring, washer, stainless steel mesh to filter debris and a cork gasket that came with one of my carb rebuild kits and sandwiched it all with the inlet fitting... I've provided a picture! I did my measurements so nothing in there is being squished!
I know that will only keep the larger pieces out but those are the ones I've been finding stuck to the tip of the needle!
In theory this should work and prevent the issue from happening again but I'll take the time to take the carb off like you said because I'd hate to do all this and have more fuel keep pouring down the intake!!!!!
Hopefully I don't break the gasket!
I hope this works!!!

Also, the washer I put in there is a smaller diameter which might help restrict flow if that's even relavant?

Nope. You're talking maybe 5psi. Won't blow the hose off. Not so sure your screen in the line is a good idea either though. A filter between the pump and carb is your best bet. Done that many times myself.

What could go wrong with the screen??
There's definitely more debris in the pump and line because I just cranked about 8oz of fuel into a clear plastic bottle and I see more little bits of rubber! I doubt my screen "filter" will work!

Ok well if there isn't enough pressure in the line to blow the connections apart the best thing is to add the real filter!
I'm going to cut the metal line in half and integrate a filter with some rubber hose and hose clamps! I don't see any other solution in my current situation!

Find out where the rubber pieces are coming from and fix that first. If you are scraping rubber off the hose going over that flared end you are using the wrong size hose. Just sticking filters on without curing the issue will just have you end up with plugged filters and the same trouble.

I've already identified the source and the solution! Mentioned it already a number of times!

Then why did you post this?
"There's definitely more debris in the pump and line because I just cranked about 8oz of fuel into a clear plastic bottle and I see more little bits of rubber! I doubt my screen "filter" will work!"

Update: It looks like I fixed it!!! I appreciate everyone's help!!!!
I cut the metal line between the pump and carb and added a nice little filter incase there's anymore debris! Cleaned the carb, flushed the line, replaced the rubber hose after filing the flared metal line and It's running like a champ again and no more fuel pouring out of the nozzle!!!! That filter will keep that from happening again incase there's a little piece of rubber lodged somewhere! Feels good to be able to drive again!
Thanks again everyone! I really appreciate your help! Hopefully I won't be back here for a while!

Just a quick little update!

Drove 50 miles round trip yesterday with no issues and I see absolutely no debris in the filter!

It looks like the arrow might be pointing in the wrong direction.

Keep an eye on that filter, sometimes the vibrations can make those fancier filters come apart.
It's surprising there wasn't one around the fuel pump to begin with.

Glad you got it sorted. A couple of things, not a fan of that filter. The clear section can break, when you go to town next, I would get one of the plastic semitransparent filters. They don’t fail and you can still see if there is fuel in them. Also, just to clarify on fuel pressure. If you increase volume through the same size orifice, pressure will always increase. In a mechanical pump there is a check valve that limits output pressure.

i too, am not a fan of those clear glass filters, as i had one fall apart on my 38 plymouth coupe with an E58 small block/727 combo.
luckily, it didn't catch fire !
if you want to see anything, as was mentioned, get one of those plastic [almost clear] filters.