Small Block Camshaft Recommendation

Looking for feedback from the forum on camshaft type/brand for a 340.

I’ve heard lately hydraulic flat tappet cams had some issues due to a lifter manufacturing issue. Not sure if that is the sole issue, but I’ve heard techs have replaced multiple canes are wiped out.

There is also a lot of discussion around an insufficient amount of ZDDP being added to oil causing cam issues.

For some, remember no car shows/racing, so we have to talk about something.

Back to the question…

A friend is in the process of replacing his 340 cam in a 70 Barracuda Convertible (NNM).

He wants a cam that is good for street use only. Below are the cam spec's for the one currently installed in the engine assembly. (wiped out cam - very low mileage and ZDDP usage). In summary a lifter failed and mushroomed causing damage to cam/engine system.

He would prefer to migrate to a hydraulic roller cam over the flat tappet. He wants something that performs similar to a stock 340 cam, but thought the current cam was bit too lumpy for his preference.

Any cam recommendations (type/brand/spec)?

Thank you in advance for your feedback.

What's actual comp. ratio?

Compression = 9.86:1

210-214 at .050 intake on a 110 lobe sep. for a little chop.

I don't think all manufactures are having cams go flat.

just my 2 cents.

I think the second smallest Crane street roller would do what he wants it to do if it was still available, but it isn't.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-699611#overview

But in a nutshell I'd try taking about 10 degrees @ .050 from where you're currently at, and would have it ground on a 112 or possibly even 114 to make it as smooth as he seems to want.

Want to hit the "easy" button?
Call Porter racing heads at (802) 951-1955 and order up a custom grind.
Ask Dwayne to pick it out and give him a credit card number, he'll have it drop shipped from the cam manufacturer.

These days I would not consider a flat tappet cam in anything unless that was the only option.

it is an expensive roll of the dice

hi

crane 272 h m v would be perfect

216 @ 50 112 lobe sep


i use amzoil 30 w brake in oil for first 1200 miles !

thev valvoline V R 1 - 10 / 30 RACE OIL


NO cam falures ever !

1800 to 3800 rpm brake in 20 min 900 rpm idle min also after brake in .


if you have to add additives to your oil you have the wrong oil !

I run this Crane Hyd roller HR-222/339-2S-12 IG in my Challenger. 9.0-1 comp (runs on 87 octane), 360, 4 speed, 3.55, 27" tire. Excellent power and driveabilty with good idle quality. LD 340 intake, 650 Holley, TT I headers and TTI 2 1/2" system, ported later 360 heads. It has been 12.79@109 with full exhaust and air cleaner in place using drag radial.
Doug

Last time I looked at roller retrofitting a 340 it was a significant expense.

Enough of an expense that a factory roller 360 Magnum starts to look like a better route.

I would 2nd that recommendation especially in light of the owner's feeling that the current cam is already a tad too hot, which I think is actually a pretty docile street cam, especially with that CR.

Either way, a move to a wider LSA would probably help here, 112 at least.

on a flat tappet, I would have Bullet Grind you the old Ultradyne H3/H5 which is 217/221 @ .050" I would cut it on 109 and put it in at 105 ICL

It'll idle with the right 340 chop but be super responsive and have broad torque.

I don't like the Comp XE's on Mopars, I think they were designed for chevy's and the heavier mopar valvetrain just makes them really noisy. IMO

For HRs you can take ~10-12 of degrees off the .050 of a comparable FT and easily make the same or more power with better idle quality.

One issue with HR's on small mopars is the 59 degree lifter bank combined with a long HR lifter makes the "less than ideal pushrod geometry a bit worse. Solid roller bodys (except Morels that seem to use the same long body the HR's use) are generally shorter and lighter and I actually prefer SR's on smallblocks.