2.4 multi-air & 3.2 V6 ?s

Looked at a couple 2017 Cherokees with this engine, 100K & 113K odometers.
They both had a ticking sound @ idle, sounds like valvetrain or direct-injection (which I don't know if they have).
Both seemed well-maintained, clean oil, looked like they were clean inside the engine from what little I can see through the oil filler hole.
Both drove fine, though one had a bad engine mount, allowing the engine to rock back about an inch or so.
Think I'll avoid that one, though otherwise I liked it...
Is that ticking normal for them ?

One I haven't looked at yet is a 2016 Cherokee w/V6, any issues with them ?

Google search of 2.4 ticking shows every answer - from normal valve actuation for them, to having to replace lifters or actuator assy on the older 2.4s.
My old Breeze's 2.0L had a somewhat lighter ticking, went 320,000 miles before I sold it - maybe not directly comparable with its cast valve cover, which dampens noise vs what appears to be tin on the 2.4 MA.

3.2&3.6 engines 2014&2015 had cam issues,usually replace cams&rockers.my wifes old t&c with a 3.6 has 319k miles,no motor problems at all.

My wife drives a 19 Cherokee with the 3.2 V6. She has 112,000 on it so far. We bought it with 25k on the clock. I think the dealer we bought it from got it at a rental car company auction. The only engine problem we've had is the oil cooler started leaking down in the valley and onto the ground. My friend who is the service manager at a dealership said it's a fairly common problem. A few years ago, that part was back ordered from Mopar and they were forced to use some from a parts store. All of those vehicles came back in a year with leaky oil coolers again.

We had an issue with the gear box when it was still under warranty. It started leaking fluid. Not sure what the exact issue was but a part was replaced under warranty. I noticed some odd tire wear and the rear suspension bushings were shot and replaced at around 80k. Normally you have to replace the entire knuckle in the back on each side.(not cheap) The dealership found some aftermarket bushings that worked, so they replaced the bushings instead of replacing the entire knuckle.

I change the oil when the dash indicator shows around 30% life left. Letting it get down close to 0% would be putting way too many miles on an oil change.(a lot longer then I would be comfortable with)

We have 3 of the 2.4s in my family. A 2016 Chrysler 200 we bought new, now with 80k miles on it . My oldest t daughter bought a 2015 Dart near new with 5000 miles on it. ( Now a little over 100k ) and the most recent add we bought youngest daughter a 2016 Dart with 113000 when we got it.

None have any kind of tick that Im aware of. I just changed the oil in the 2016 Dart yesterday. That one uses a little oil ( im told a common issue on the 2.4 ) But hers is the only one of the 3 that do. Shes put a little over 3000 miles since we bought it. And it was 2 qts low.


Be advised when they get low on oil ( or coolant im told ) they will stall at times. Found that out just recently.

Thanks - that ticking concerns me, if it's not a universal characteristic.
Some forums say it's normal and nothing to be concerned about, but I'm not so sure about that.
Especially if some don't do that at all.

Many understand ticking differently.

The 2.4 can have a bad lifter on the ex side or it could be one of the solenoids on the intake side of the multi air brick.

Some tick a bit everyplace like a 318 with no oil all the time but if its a isolated tick then id be concerned.

I have several 2.4s and have had zero problems and not even the oil use problem where they have the recall for a flash that makes less vacuum on deceleration.

I like the 2.4s, hard to mod but I had a crank offset ground and some new pistons made. Still SLOW but faster then other 2.4-s.

They are a bit complex to work on and costly to fix. I almost think if I were smarter id of avoided the 2.4 because when trouble hits its a pain and costly even for parts.

I change oil full syn. every 3k but repurpose the like new oil in my mower and other things.

Real world multi air.

Ticking noise could be from the purge valve. Normal on first start up. You would be able to put your hand on it to confirm. Just my 2c's

These 2 ticked almost like a solid-lifter car, though a more tinny sound.
Uniform & constant sound, didn't change with temp or use.
I decided against pursuing those 2 vehicles, and bought something else instead.

Has it been your experience that the fuel economy of the 2.4L is near “World’s Best” ?

Fiat made a big deal of MultiAir when it first came out.

Then the MultiAir - II system was bragged on by Chrysler and Fiat:

https://www.wardsauto.com/technology/chrysler-s-new-multiair-ii-engine-put-test

sample quote

There are four valves per cylinder, and the electro-hydraulic MultiAir system, pioneered by Fiat for infinite variability in controlling the intake valves, has been optimized for fuel economy and performance, MacFarlane says.

The intake valve event now allows more internal exhaust gas recirculation, he says,
“so we have a longer duration in that inlet on the opening side;
you get more internal EGR for fuel economy.”

MultiAir II “simultaneously controls the opening and the closing point for the valve event,” MacFarlane says.

“With MultiAir I, you had to pick the opening or the closing – you couldn’t pick both.
So this allows what we call hybrid mode,
where you control both the opening and the closing of the inlet for a very short duration,
and you can put that inlet anywhere in the cycle.”

end quote

Is it a really thrifty engine
compared to prior 2.2L to 2.5L engines?

My wifes 2016 Chrysler 200 can pull low 30s mpg on trips. 2.4 auto .
IF I keep my foot out of it. But even at 80 mph plus over long distances I can get upper 20s with no problem. At 100mph the car rolls easily .

Ive never had a 2.2 / 2.5 get anything over mid 20s tops

To my amazement im getting a steady 36mpg with the 2.4 stroked to a 2.8. It was the best power increase that could circumvent all the non adjustable systems. But the 36 is with light foot and everything set in economy mode. It will drop to 25 if im beating it... its still slow as heck but faster then other 2.4s

I did put all the aero parts on the underside that helped and to offset having no grille shutters and the open hood and functional 2.5 inch air inlets where the fog lights were oem.

It was a semi rough car when I bought it but had the great feature of having the only SRT paint code put on a dart PLC Hemi Orange that matches my charger and close to my EV2 cars so its turned out to me a great parts runner and overall fun car for very little money.

These are actually rims made for the 200 but they are 1/2 inch wider at 18x8 then the best optioned dart rim and the centers all swap out and bought at $100 a rim shipped when mopar dumped them it was a easy choice.

I can certainly see why you would want to use the very best oil and change it frequently.

Did Chrysler rate it a FlexFuel engine?
Seems there is a chance that widely variable intake cycle might do better with the more oxygenated, lower BTU per gallon E85

https://pearsonfuels.com/flex-fuel-car-check/

Oddly it seems that Jeep Cherokee 2.4L are FlexFuel
but Dodge Dart 2.4L may not be?

Difference basically boils down to some extra sensors, computer programming differences and maybe injector changes. Why one is and the other isn't is likely driven by CAFE issues more than anything else. My work truck is flex fuel capable, mileage sux on E85 though.

My wife's 200 is flex fuel,
'Neither one of the Darts are though