Fuse \ Relay block

Has anyone come across an integral fuse and relay block that has a common positive buss that feeds the fuse line side , and then you can wire\ terminate the fuse load and relays yourself?
Found one by bussmann but not enough info on it to be sure it’s what I’m looking for . It’s a bare block for 100 bucks then you have to buy terminals relays and fuses . Tons on amazon but all are either pre wired or need to feed each fuse separately. I want run a single feed from batt or alt to block

How many circuits do you need ? and what anticipated amperage per circuit ?

Hit the junkyard. Look under the hoods of newer vehicles, I've pirated a few for my uses.
I like the ones under the hood of 89-92 rangers.
I used one to delete all my fusible links on my 85 D150 by running everything that used to have a fusible link in it thru the fuse box instead.
We did the same on my son's ramcharger when we deleted the TBI and went 4bbl, that one came from a 98 zx2.(escort)

If each circuit was good for 30 amps I can always fuse down. 4 relays maybe 6 or more circuits.
Modernizing my 65 and would prefer to put new loads on a new system rather than tax the existing.

Thanks for the reply.
Those days are gone here in ct . Any yards remove the parts for you . Also don’t want a bunch of splices . Want to be able to go right to the fuse or relay.
The key thing I’m looking for is something with a common positive bus bar so all fuses are powered instead of having to feed each one from a positive lug or bar

Try Grainger. Loads of electrical stuff.

Lots of good stuff here https://www.westmarine.com/electrical-distribution/

Gus

I've been searching for this sort of stuff for months. Of course you hear all the "don't buy Chinese" BS advice HOWEVER on a recent excursion through a wreckers I was looking at relay/fuse boxes in GMs 'cause they use the common square relays and I noticed they're ALL made in China.

So there's a source for cheap and plentiful relays.

Next is the relay box or socket. All the boxes on Amazon, etc look cumbersome and few have built in busses. The alternative is to use individual relay sockets and make your own panel with these. These sockets or the relays can be screwed to a piece of 1/2" cutting board to make a neat panel. Fuse blocks come in a wide variety and so do both negative and positive buss bars.

There are quite a few Youtube videos on how to make a neat panel.

And if you have really deep pockets you should look into MSD's solid state relay strips.

Lots here just need to look at each one for more options. Fuse panels

I source the components and do systems according to what it is and how much stuff there is. Typically I like to locate relays near the component it is controlling. Separate components, as opposed to all-in-one assemblies, allows for quick repair/replacement in the field in the event of a failure.

Littlelfuse/Bussmann makes nice stuff and usually have what I need. Relays and other parts are from notChina places as well.

Tons to choose from on AMZ
AMZ LINKY

AndyF mentioned the MSD Relays some time ago. I took a look back then and they have a nice form factor and some pretty interesting features. Holley just sent me an email saying that they have added some part #s and some of the MSD Relays are on sale (Holley owns MSD). Check out: https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/ There are lower priced relays with less functionality and higher priced solid-state relays. See: https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/parts/7566-4 The lower priced relays do NOT have a common input power bus. The more pricy solid-state relays like this high-current part: https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/parts/7564-HC have a single power input bus. The solid-state relays are cool because they switch fast enough to take a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signal on the relay control circuit and produce a PWM output for the load side of the relay. So if you need the really fast switching of a solid-state relay, these parts are a good option. Read the .pdf instructions at the link for each part# to get more detail. Full disclosure - I haven't purchased one of these yet but I have several of these part #s on my Summit wish list.

Leash Electronics has a lot of neat stuff and can custom make you what you need.

He's out of Arkansas.

That's how most factory stock ones are, some are always hot, others are hot w/ the key. I cut my fuse box about 10" away from the box itself, so I had plenty of lead to work with.
I then butt connected them ( bare un insulated crimps) then soldered them and heat shrunk every splice with the " good" heat shrink, the heavier walled stuff with the built in adhesive that oozes out as the heat is applied and the tubing shrinks

heavy wall heat shrink with the adhesive is marine grade stuff.
i use that a lot. as always, there are many places to obtain this from, and some are better than others.
shop around and compare brands at different places. some places add a markup to the [same] product just because you purchase from their "name".

Thanks for all of the leads and ideas.
I may do a separate fuse block and relay block

Thanks for the link. I like these https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/


Compact, fully self-contained. If you were to buy buss bars, relays and sockets and a fuse block all separately you couldn't do it for that price !!

I've used quite afew off AMZ without issue

You might be looking at the Bussman 15300 series fuse/relay boxes. They come in different configurations: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/emobility/series-15300-rear-terminal-mini-fuse-relay.html
Pages 48-49 of the catalog: https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/emobility/CPCD_Transportation_Catalog.pdf

Normally 1530(3 or 5) - 2 is the 5 Micro relay and 10 fuse base. I believe it has one positive buss to all the fuses, and another buss for the relay grounds (when triggered on the high side.)
If using non-polarized relays, the relay bus could be connected to power through one of the fuses, and triggered on the low side.

I'm not sure why Amazon is $90? I actually ordered that one from Amazon on Aug 11, 2020 and it was $39.02 back then.
Waytek is $42.85 for the 15305 (metric screws) version -2-2-4

I noticed you can get them pre-wired with the fuses and relays on E-Bay, but they are expensive, $230: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132449489662