2011 Ram 1500 hard starting (cold)

Good morning, friends, and Happy Friday!

I'm having some minor issues with my 2011 Ram 1500 5.7L starting hard recently. It has been VERY cold lately (last few mornings, 5 degrees, 7 degrees, and -5 degrees). I have a 3 car garage but 6 cars, so my daily driver (the aforementioned Ram) sits outside.
I've had this truck since new (11/04/11) and no issues so far. 154,727 miles this morning. I have had regular service, oil changes, Valvoline Full Synthetic 5W20, transmission serviced, etc.
Before I take this into the dealership, what do you think?

-truck is equipped with "tip-start", FYI. No remote start. I step in, pop in the key and hit the start and she usually pops off on the 2nd crank.
Last week, she just cranked and cranked and cranked 7 or 8 times before I stopped the key. Then, I tried again, and she started on the 2nd crank. Drives perfectly.
This happened a couple of more times (wouldn't start on the first attempt, cranked 7 or 8 times, then stopped, and tried again, started right up). I figured that it's because it's so cold.

This morning, getting ready to go to work, she does it again. Cranks 7 or 8 times, no fire. I stop, try again...and she still won't start! I tried 4 or 5 times and on the 5th time (or so) she fired up.
What does everyone think? Injectors? Fuel Pump? Fuel Pressure Regulator? Any ideas appreciated, I'll have her go to the doctor (Dealership) next week for a diagnosis, just thought I may get some ideas here.

Thank you!

JS

When was the last time you changed the plugs?

Been awhile, probably due (changed around 80,000 miles)

JS

Sounds like the fuel lines are draining back. Had that issue with an 89 turbo Voyager. What I did, till I fixed the stuck check valve, was turn the key on, let the pump prime, turn the key off. Then turn it on again, let it prime and fire it up. If that works for you it's most likely a fuel pressure issue of some sort. In my case it was a check valve in the tank, between the pump and the outlet that was stuck open allowing the fuel line to empty when it sat.

2011 every 35,000 miles on the Spark Plugs
Factory Copper



However I like the fuel pressure thinking

How old is the battery? Or how close is it to the end of its warranty time?
I ran into something very close to this, found out the starter draw was too high. Replacing the starter resulted in a noticeably faster cranking motor. The starting problem went away. It took a few cold days in a row before the slow cranking created a starting problem, didn't realize it was cranking slow until the new starter was on the truck.

I can second this, a free, simple, autoparts chain test determined the cause of our weak start battery killing spree was the result of a crap starter......

I agree with Sniper. Sounds like fuel drain back. Keying it up without actually cranking runs the pump in prime mode. If you do this a few times before cranking it should fill the system. If it then starts right up you are on the trail. Could be piump bleed back, leak in the lines, leaking injector. If this doesn't help a scanner with data would help.
Doug

Sounds like one of the EFI sensors are not working correctly for cold starts

Extended crank times are almost always caused by fuel pressure issues.

Agreed,

next time. just crank the key to start / on position, back off, then back to on again. ( dont actually crank it over )

See if it makes a difference

This primes the fuel system

i am no familiar with this year ram, but early minivans had a regulator in the fuel lines mounted on the engine[s] that would go bad, causing the [fuel pressure] issues described.
just throwing this out there.
is the regulator integral with the ram pump ? if so, just disregard my comment.

Thanks, everyone!

Spark plugs were changed around 70,000 miles with Platinum replacements (dealership told me they were good for 100,000 miles)
Only happened on the super cold days. As soon as it started to warm up, she starts/runs perfectly. No issues now.
At 5 below zero, hard starting. Above zero starts just fine. Will likely do plugs and fuel system cleanup this Spring.

Thank you for all the responses!

JS

Cold weather always exaggerates weak components. Sometimes it makes finding those weak parts really hard to find before they fail completely, which might not be until the next cold spell, or years down the road. .

UPDATE:

to answer a few questions from above;

factory battery (truck built 11/04/2010) lasted until 07/05/2018 at which time it was replaced with a NAPA Legend (last one on my 76 W100 lasted me 10 years)
Cranks, spins fast, so the battery is just fine.

Last week, started normally/just fine. This weekend, Saturday had to cycle the key to get it to pop, but ran fine after that. Sunday morning, did not want to fire. Cranked and cranked but no start. Cycled the key, started for 1 second and died. Tried again, started for 1 second, died.
Cycled the key some more, and she finally fired and ran normally. Then, I made some runs around town and once she was warmed up, started normally.
This morning, called my dealership and explained the problem. They are thinking fuel pump losing it's prime from sitting (2011 Ram with 155,000 miles). They are getting her in next Monday, 2/20 and will do spark plugs, transmission service and check the fuel pressure as well. Max Care Warranty with this one since I bought new, so fuel pump should be covered, plugs aren't but she's due, and one of my key fobs stopped working to boot, so I'll get this all fixed at once.

Thanks for all the replies!

JS

Not a valid test or conclusion especially on modern vehicles with computers very sensitive to low voltage during cranking. If you had put a meter on the battery and measured voltage during cranking that would have told you what you needed to know.

I tested the voltage and battery is fine, but thanks for the advice.

JS

ck amps no load and amps when cranking ?

another area to look at, is the fuse/relay box if located near the battery.
battery outgassing will play havoc with connections and wiring in that box, or any part of the harness that is close, or runs under/around the battery.
i have repaired many vehicles of all makes because of this.
just something else to ponder.
please let us know what the dealer finds.

Got into dealership yesterday. Today, they called with a diagnosis;

Fuel pump relay is failing intermittently. They are replacing (covered under extended warranty)
Water pump is leaking coolant, they are replacing water pump and hoses, along with a couple of lines, and coolant flush (covered under extended warranty)
One of my key fobs went bad (not covered, but they are replacing at my cost)
Replacing all 16 Spark Plugs at my cost.
Everything else checks out, should be done tomorrow.
Meantime, I'm driving a 2020 Jeep Compass Limited 4x4 as a loaner. So, all is well. Thanks for all the replies!

JS

still waiting on my Ram, one of the coolant lines did not come in today and the fuel pump relay is still coming as well.
If the truck shows up tomorrow, she will be done tomorrow.

I miss my Ram. Looking forward to getting her back in tip top shape.

JS

UPDATE:

Ram is back home, all fixed.
Found fuel pump relay had gone bad (was not turning fuel pump on when cranking).
Replaced with new relay and covered by warranty.
Found water pump leaking and worn fan clutch, replaced both under warranty.
Found leaking transmission coolant lines, ordered and covered by warranty but found that they are backordered "indefinitely" by Chrysler. So, had to call some other dealerships to find some on the shelf.
Replaced 16 Spark Plugs and replaced one bad key fob.
Runs perfectly once again, and aside from the plugs and fob, only had to pay $100 deductible on the warrantied repairs.

JS