Headers for an F-Body Small Block???

A buddy with a Volare wagon asked me what headers would fit on his car with a 360 LA small block and I've never messed with F-Bodies at all so I figured that I'd ask here.

He said he's looked online and couldn't fine a clear answer so I searched on here and didn't really come up with one either.

Any recommendations out there for brands that fit and clear?

F bod….. that have the X torsion bars? Or old school longitudinal ones?

Yeah they have the crossway torsion bars, most headers I see for Mopar though fall into 2 categories. "B E A F J" bodies and truck/van. So any that fit an a or b body should fit that volare. When I put headers on my diplomat (same suspension setup) I had no issue finding a set that fit.

Not cheap but TTI makes headers for them.
Dougs D453 are another good choice.
Both do not hang low like other brands.

I would think ( hurts when I do that though) that Doug's D- 453 would be the ones.
Call and ask.

Not to go too far off topic but is there any header manufacture that kind of generalizes what type of power increase or power characteristics their headers produce? Years ago I was talking with Jere Stahl of Stahl headers of course and he told me that he worked a lot with producing the best power and torque for where the buyer was going to use, drive or race the engine he was making them for. Jere said that he used to go to circle track races and with a radar gun record the speeds in the corners and somehow calculate the rpm engines were running (don't know how he did it but that's what he said?) then talk to the drivers and I think he said he only found one driver that ever knew exactly what rpm he was running. He used a similar approach at making all of his headers and that's why he used the term “Total-Tuned” Headers. Is there any header manufacture that gives any kind of type of power or even a hint of type of power or power increase information? The only place I ever see this is with motorcycle 2-stroke expansion chamber exhaust pipes where you can get a pipe that will give you more bottom power, or better mid-range power or more top power for road racing or even motocross. Seems to me about the only info for headers is fitment. So when fitment isn't a big issue like a rail or fender well cutouts does the manufacture say "these will give you more mid-range power, or 10% increase in power or do they continue to say nothing but "they fit XYZ model from x year to y year?". In 1969 I put a set of Hooker Headers on my stock and new '69 383 Road Runner and they knocked 2 tenths off of my quarter mile times with no carb or any modifications. Same deal back then no header manufacture made any claims but fitment. I don't get it. As here in this thread the replies seem to be more about fitment than performance. Sorry just ranting a little or maybe the two cups of Death Wish Coffee talking

Mike

I thought A body ones were supposed to fit but sometimes need a bit of tweaking to clear steering components.

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We've been using A-body headers for years. A mini starter helps with some clearance. The biggest issue with the 'cheapie' headers of any brand is the flange, so we cut them in two places and use Remflex gaskets and have had no issues.
Rather than mess around with moving the gas tank for duals, we use the T/A style mufflers and exit just before the rear wheels. The only down side is there is almost no room for resonators, which they kind of need unless you like the rumble.

Have him check or forfmjbodiesonly, if he hasn't already.

Thanks for all the replies, at least I can tell him something.

I feel TTI and Dougs have the best designs for the F body. They both are not cheap. The cheaper headers will fit and some will have issues. Like I said the cheaper headers have the low hanging tube on the drivers side and the spark plug access is poor on some brands. Save yourself the trouble and go wilth the better headers if you can.

Correct on the TTI Headers being great choice. I've had two sets on M body cars which are same design as F and they fit great and are quality design and leak free. Yes expensive but well worth the leak free design and no headaches. Use Remflex gaskets with them

Way too many variables to even guess. Proper sizing is left to the builder, as it should be.

Hooker used to make a set specifically listed for F body Mopars. I used them on my M without any need for clearance. They were cheaper though and the cheap ones run three of the primary tubes under the steering link on the driver's side. Depending on the condition of the roads where you live the risk of those tubes kissing the road is quite high. Didn't take long for it to happen to me in Michigan. Only thing that stopped it from happening was installing a pair of Firm Feel 300# torsion bars.

I’ve owned my Aspen R/T since 2000 and in 2005 I put TTI step up headers on listed for B-body and they’re a great fit and still work great on the car. It’s a 408 Stroker and we tested it on the dyno with these headers and a 750hp carb and it pulled 537hp/540tq. Tried a 830 carb and 1 7/8” headers and pulled 550/550

Overall, E/B body headers tend to fit well. In my particular Aspen wagon application the TTI step headers are the same as E/B body. TTI and some other A-body headers use a separate #7 tube which goes out and around the frame rail and slips into the collector. The TTI F/E/B body headers are all one piece.

77DragracerR/T - Your dyno test showed higher peak numbers with a bigger carb and headers. I'm curious what the average HP and Torque was through the operating range between the 2 tests. ("area under the curve").
Not sure what's normally used, but perhaps average the numbers in 500 rpm increments from 3,000 rpm through the peaks.


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TTI lists these for F body

https://www.ttiexhaust.com/TTi340.htm

Have the tti 340BE headers on an Aspen RT. Fit is good.

I've used both of these in a '80 M-body coupe (Diplomat):

1) #78050, Headman Headers
2) #5901, Hooker Competition headers

Both were 1-5/8" primary pipe diameter. I liked the Hooker pipes better...the flange was thicker and perhaps the tubes as well. They were heavier w/o a doubt.

For my W2 stroker build I selected:

TTI #340BEW2-17835C0 , 1-7/8" primary tube, un-finished, 3-1/2" collector

...but I haven't tossed the combo into the car yet, so no hands-on fitment results to report.

FYI - I have long time ago gone the route of the Lokar cable setup for both throttle and kickdown, so I didn't have to make some of the adjustments to the support/pivot rod that I remember doing in my first Mopar ride, that being a '78 Plymouth Caravelle (M-body, Canuck).