Door hinges

Is there a preferred go to for replacement door hinges or rebuild kits or rebuilder ? 65 B body
Thanks

IIRc NAPA sells a pin kit with bushings.You do have to drill to install the bushings Seems many have used them and they are supposed to be good.I have to do the DS door on my 65 Belvedere.Have 2 bad hinges from the DS. Rocky

from the dusty corners of my noodle, i seem to recall dorman, or the "help" brand repair kit for a ford truck [?] had the correct bushings and pin length[s] for most mopar door hinges, and was usually on stock at most [?] parts stores.
if this isn't correct, please correct me !

I’ll check it out .

OT of sorts but when I read the Title of this thread it reminded me of when I said to my very young something about him being perplexed at the time about something not to get worried about. I said "don't worry there are things that you just can't fix, like there are no words that rhyme with orange" to which his response was "Door hinge" well that was close enough for me to put that to rest.

Go to ForBBodiesOnly.com and look for MoparLeo. Hes in CA and rebuilds hinges. Stellar work and fair price IMO. Realize not that difficult to do if the hinges arent worn too bad but mine were and he utilized upsized pins and other details to address. If you cant find it, PM me and I will provide his email address/phone number.

I dont recommend using the bushings for the lower hinge. There is a reason the factory only put them in the top hinge. Look around for the kit with oversize pins so you dont need to install bushings. I also recommend replacing the S spring since they are almost always grooved.

Thanks for all the help

I have rebuilt many of my own hinges with the Dorman pin and bushing kits.

A good piece of advice is to spend a few dollars and get a drill bit long enough to go through both sides of the hinges when you drill them for the bushings. It is pretty much impossible to line the top and bottom holes up by drilling one side then the other. If the holes aren't lined up the hinge bushings will be short lived.

i seem to remember the oversize pins were the ford pins, but i could be wrong. [it wouldn't be the first, and i'm sure it won't be the last time i'm wrong...... ]
and replacing the spring is a good idea as well. especially since you have the hinge apart already.

If you want to send them out, member moparleo does professional restoration of them. Here's his profile and an eBay ad of his.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/users/21276/moparleo.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/141816569176

Thanks this seems more than reasonable cost wise .

Oddly enough the drivers side seems pretty good and the passenger side not .

Superbird Bob.

superbirdbob@aol.com

Care to explain why that is?

Anyone have a link to the over sized pin kit . Ford was mentioned but what year and application?

The only problem I see with the rebuild service is I would have to remove both doors and store them at the same time . Space is tight right now

I’ve read the same about the original design with lower hinge taking the major portion of the weight load. With the door open, doesn’t the top hinge bear the same weight load, though in opposite direction, as that on the bottom hinge? Ie, the top hinge is in tension while the bottom hinge is in compression. Yes, I’m sure there is a reason why they didn't design the lower hinge to be bushed. Hopefully someone can help me understand,

It seems to me the bottom wasn't thick enough to hold bushings. They had to pack springs & detention rollers into the hinges so making them thick enough to put bushings in them would make for a heavy costly hinge.

Modern cars without the detention stops in the hinges are pretty light duty top and bottom but the doors are pretty light duty also so

the only thing i remember about this, it's a ford pickup, and i'm thinking around 78 or so model year.
i'm going on my memory alone [], so if you have a pin in hand, or the hinge, i can only suggest taking it to a parts store and comparing it to what is on the "help" rack.
if you are successful, please let us know what you find.

It can be done, here's pic of set from ebay

The drivers side door on my 70 Challenger was very worn. I replaced bushings in the top and welded the lower fittings. If you look you can see where the wear areas are in the hole. Welding only the worn area helps retain the original hole location. I cleaned up the welded portion of the holes, and align-reamed all 4 pieces in place to .340". Door has no up/down play now. Also was able to fit to the quarter though I know I'll have to revisit once I reinstall the window.

Good question only reason i can think of are, the detent springs, or being lower possibly they are more prone to collecting debris
I will say in ~ 25 years of business / inspections the Lower hinge has always been the one that wears more than the top, 90% of the time excluding a few Mfr's that tried using PLASTIC bushings on the top hinge