Another wheel tire combo question.

69 SUPER BEE, dana 60 factory width. 15x10x5.5 BS WITH A 295/65/15. Ive searched and read and searched and read and i cannot get a definate answer on weather or not this combo is going to fit. I know the 15x8x4.5 will but what about the 15x10x5.5. Any try it? Or anyone run it? Im dead set on the 295/65 its the rim im debating.. thanks in advance guys

Also going to be using SS Springs

The '69 Super Bee's have a little more rear wheel well clearance than a '69 Road Runner and I only know that 275/60 -15 tires on 10x8x4.5 will barely fit on the rear of a '69 Road Runner/GTX and that is barely. It's no problem on a '69 Super Bee but so close on a RR/GTX that I went with 255/60-15's on the RR and GTX both '68 and '69 and could just get a finger of clearance between the tire and inner fender well. You might want to go to the A12 Registry here http://a12mopar.com/yabb/YaBB.pl as there's a lot of experience with wheel/tire combo's and '69 Super Bees.

http://a12mopar.com/yabb/YaBB.pl

Funny you should ask because I just measured all this on my 69 RR yesterday. The Plymouth will be the same as the Dodge except for the out tub and quarter.

From the rear quarter inside fender lip to lip is 74-1/2"
The tire you're using has a 12"cross section
10" wheel with 5-1/2" backspace + 1" of tire makes a total backspace of 6-1/2" OR 5-1/2" on the front spacing
So 60" axle width plus 11" (for two wheels/tires) = 71"

So you'll have 1-3/4" from the tire wall to the fender lip - probably more because yours is a Dodge

But the problem will be the inside of the tub. The original tubs measure 14" from the lip.
With that wheel tire combo you'll only have 1/4" clearance AT THE MOST from the tub.

A 1/2" wheel spacer will solve your problem but I think you could use a wheel with a 4-1/2" backspace with no problems at all.

A12 ...

What is the wheel/tire combo on the front of your Bee ??

I will say this, on my 68 Charger I have 15x10 ,4 7/8 BS, if it was 5.5 BS it would rub on the leaf spring when making sharp turns at speed because of tire flex

So a 15x10 with a 4.5 BS Will work without rubbing fender or leaf ya think? If all fails i def know the 15x8 4.5bs def works..

So your thinkin a 15x10 /4.5bs. i would assume the 15x 10 wide rim would look better on a 295/65 than a 15x8 i think.. but im pretty sure that the 15x8x4.5 is a no brainer and it does work.

What is your current rim/tire combo? With this, add the dimension of your new proposal, break out the tape, and see where it falls by comparison. It sounds like you are adding one inch to both the inside and outside compared to the 15x8-4.5bs

Of course, you can run a 295 on an 8" rim, you just have to run it at a lower pressure.

295 is 11.6 inches. On a 10" rim, this only allows 3/4" of sidewall bulge on each side of the rim. A 9.5" width rim would be ideal.

A 295 width should have a 9"-10" rim width, ideally.
I ran 295/50s on 15x8 Ramcharger wheels on a '68 RR (Hemi/4speed/Dana) and had plenty of clearance all around.
Those wheels were 4.5" BS, stock wheelhouses & springs.
Spring location is the same width - whether Belvedere/Coronet/Charger - and I'd bet the inner wheelhouse dimensions are too.
I'd mount some bare wheels & break out the tape measure and a length of straightedge, maybe a plumb bob, and verify what BS is needed.
There's been at least one member here with a '69 GTX who ran 295/65s on 15x10s with 5.5 BS without problems.
Coronets have more room at the wheel opening, of course, so 5.0 or 4.5 might center better, but a wheel opening flange is quite effective at scoring sidewalls...

NOPE 15x10 4.5 bs will hit the outer well, all these cars were built with a very bad tolerance, most these gen B bodies with stock width Diff work with a 15x10, 5in BS

I have nothing on this yet as of now. All i have to compare to is a 68 coronet allnstock suspension with stock springs and 15x8x3.75bs or a 15x10x3.75bs i need to take the tire off to verify but the tire bulges alot so its prob a 15x8 according to american racing wheels i see online. with a 29x11 hoosier slick i didnt put that on there. And the other is my 69 charger with 15x8x4.5 bs. Fits like a glove with the 275x60. But i want the 295 on this bee .. The coronet sticks to far outwards with 3.75bs.

I think ill just stick with the 15x8x4.5. Instead of playin games.

don't forget to measure BOTH sides, no matter what you decide to go with.
the tolerances were so bad back then, that you could have up to 3/4-1" difference side to side, without the car in question being crashed in it's lifetime. 1/2-5/8" difference is very common.
that, and 50 plus years of potholes and other maladies, and who knows what a person will come up with that will effect tire/wheel fitment.

So in theory a 15x10x5bs with that tire sboukd work as well? I did find a nice wheel in a15x10x5bs

Not my Bee but Gary T's. His son "Little Gary" just sent me a text (Big Gary is driving his Bee now) with his tire and wheel info:

Fronts are 15x4.5 wheels with 215/75R 15 tires.

Rear: 15x8 wheels with 4.25 back spacing, tires 29x12.5

(but I did get my Y4 A12 RM21 Road Runner in a roundabout way from GaryT who bought it from the second owner in the early '90's. Second owner bought it in 1971 from a used car lot in Youngstown, Ohio. The name of the used car lot that had the ROAD RUNNER was named..........wait for it.........................it's a ROAD RUNNER .................the used car lot was named ACME MOTORS no lie

(note the mistake of RAOAD RUNNER on the '71 title )

Mike

Now I am not sure if the Charger & your car have the same room, here is an old pic of mine with 15x10 4 7/8 { call it 5 } with a 295/50/15

Do you have any pics of yours?

I bought my wheels and tires from a guy with a Charger. 15 x 10's with 5-1/2 BS. As I previously mentioned - they would fit the OP's bee with a 1/2" spacer - which is what the guy was using on his Charger. The outer wheelhouse is not an issue on a Dodge - it is on a Plymouth.

A 15 x 10 with 5" BS will work just fine - same as if you used a spacer on the 5-1/2" BS wheel.

FWIW ALL B-bodies of that era have the same frame spacing and use the same inner tubs. It's the outers that are different and the Dodges have a bit more room than the Plymouths.

Perfect, thanks everyone. Looks like ill be going 15x10x5bs..

ANYONE RUN THIS WHEEL ON REAR... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aeo-58-904550blk
AND THIS ON FRONT. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aeo-58-984540blk

It's none of my business, but did you happen to notice the "Not DOT Approved" note?

I did actually. I didnt think it would matter much. They look good. Pros and cons? I would assume they would be better than a factory steelie thats all black.

definitely not a street wheel."These wheels are an excellent economical choice for either dirt or asphalt applications. Their black chrome finish is sure to add an intimidating custom look to your race car." 5" back spacing and center hole way to big for Mopars to be hub centric.

Im assuming you mean they wont work? I liked the black chrome look. Thats why i picked them. If they wont work def let me know , i havent ordered them yet

What are you planning to put them on? The back spacing may not work. These are meant for roundy round dirt track racing not for The pot holes etc. you run across on the street. If you keep looking I'm sure you will find some black chrome wheels that are designed for street use.

69 superbee. I never gave any of that a thought. I mean its not like im going to be beating it over potholes. Or driving it that much for that matter. Ill prob just dick around , pull some hole shots cruise town prob wont ever take it to the track. I have around 700hp hemi 4spd and dot drag radials lined up for this setup. If they wont work at all or if there is a major reason i cant use them def let me know. I cant seem to find any other black chrome ones as of now . You have me looking tho. I have all the backspacing and widths all figured out they will fit.

They should be ok, Heck my Centerlines are not hub centric, I bought some hub rings so they are now

I just saw that the magnum 500 i have on my charger arent hub centric either. I didnt know that. But they havent ever given me any issue. I think ill be fine.

No pot holes on a dirt track at all....,ever. Perfectly smooth surface.

Entirely different kind of suspension and tire combo. But it is his car and if he is willing to trust those rims go for it.

Most likely not DOT approved because they don't have a "safety bead" that prevents the tire's bead from moving inward for instance if you hit a pothole so yeah if he wants to then you takes your chances, I wouldn't. And people always think those safety standards are just only for the person's vehicle and their safety and not for the innocent other drivers, passengers and pedestrians WHICH THEY ARE. Hit a pothole, break a bead seal, lose control, hit a school bus, yeah extreme but yeah what if, then how much did it really matter if you were running not DOT/FMVSS compliant components on your vehicle? Just saying.

The 58 series has safety beads. And dirt track is huge in my area and those tracks are rough and their wheels take a pounding.

Speedway has more info on the wheels, 58 series.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aero-58-104550-58-Series-15x10-Wheel-SP-5x4-5-BP-5-Inch-BS,92087.html

Good to see that Black Sheep post - that's the wicked-cool car that came to mind.

Dirt track wheels are a consumable; they take a beating from everything, including other cars.
Back in my Sprint Car days, we replaced a barrel or two often.

I'm not sure that's black chrome on those wheels, but I didn't read the description.

Yessir its black chrome. Alot diff looking than the normal chrome. I think im going to buy them. They do have a bead seat and yes they arent hub centric but most aftermarket wheels arent even my wheel vintiques mag 500s i just found out arent either. So i dont see a valid reason why not use them. I think they decent and differnt than what anyone else runs. If they dont look that great ill buy somthing else.

Okay that's good but why don't they have a DOT approval?

another thing to consider, the dirt track lug nut seat is 45 degrees, while all street wheels have a 60 degree lug nut seat.

Im not really sure, but im not real concerned about it. From what i read is it supposedly costs ALOT of money just to get that approval. So maybe they dont feel the need for it, who knows. Im sure they hold up just as well as any steel wheel made by wheel vintiques. Says on there about street use is to how to properly balance them being lug centric. Even wheel vintiques seem cheaply built and there not hub centric either from the ones i seen and used. Its not like alot of the parts we use on these cars dont say not for street use , for example double pumper carbs specifically say race when most others say street,as well as exhaust components. And im sure ppl run racegas in their cars on the street when there not suposed to. Or open up a set of cutouts and or run slicks. I believe those steel wheels will be just fine. Especially the weight capability that it states. Ive seen what these type of wheels go through dirt track racing and those guys dont trash can them after every race, they take alot abuse. Im not racing my car everyday i drive it. And i certainly wont be driving it everyday either. Just to car cruises and mildly play around on occasion.

All of those non-compliant things you noted are emissions related and not safety or Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) regulations or requirements for street or on-highway use. Regardless if it takes "a lot of money" to certify the wheel for DOT approval I wonder what's not in compliance??

I realize it says off road use only BUT then again why does it say this.

Installation Tips

For off road use only. The following must be considered when using Aero wheels for on highway/street use when the wheel/tire assembly is being balanced. Aero wheels are lug centric, which means they are built off of, and must be balanced using, the bolt circle and NOT the wheel center hole. Improper use of a tire balancer that centers the wheel on the hub bore, not the bolt circle, will result in an incorrect reading for rim runout as the center hole is not in the perfect center of the bolt pattern. The only machine capable of performing a lug centric balance is the Hunter GSP 9700 with the flange plate bolt circle adapter and no centering cone.



So apparently if they would even mention this then apparently there safer than you think. That justified it enough for me. If there would be a major issue then that would have been left out entirely. I dont think they would even risk it by saying that if their wheels werent capable being on the street

Thats my take on it anyhow. I think they will look decent. Ive seen some hideous looking combos out there but i def have the sizing correct so we will see how they look once mounted.

Here's a link to finding a shop that has a Hunter GSP9700 in your area : https://www.hunter.com/find-equipment/

Seems like the Hunter GSP9700 should be available in a lot of tire shops.

Unless you can get your wheels and tires from Tire Rack

"Tire Rack uses Hunter 9700s exclusively here at the South Bend store (warehouse).
They can detect the condition of the wheel and the tire separately, but with the tire mounted on the wheel."

Now waiting for photos

Mike

Awesome thanks man. Itll be a bit yet gotta get the quarters on and a bunch of things yet. Ill def be posting pics, in fact i may start a whole new thread of the restoration and post all the pics.

So i ordered the wheels. Aero said the 50 series would be better because the weight rating on the 50 is 4000lbs vs the 58 at 3500lbs.
So here are the part numbers

Front -- 50-984540blk 50 series black chrome 15x8 5x4.5 4” backspacing.
Rear-- 50-904550blk 50 series black chrome 15x10 5x4.5 5” backspacing.

They gave me a name of a dealer Day Motorsports in texas. I called they special ordered them for me said about 4 weeks.

I wanted to try 275/60-15's on the rear on 15x8 wheels but chickened out and went with 255/60 15's on 15x8 with 4.5 back spacing. I think I would have had just enough room for the 275/60's on the GTX but I'm okay with the look and ride of the 255's

I found this pic online. They have a better looking color with a real pic. I think itll look good on a 69 bee F6 green  with a black sixpack hood.  I ended up special ordering  the 50 series instead of the 58 series due to a heavier weight rating. But this pic i found looks better. Itll be something diff instead of the wheel vintiques black one everyone else runs and or the same style wheels that everyone else has seen for the last 50 or so years..

don't forget about the lug nut taper.
dirt track wheels are 45 degree seat angle, while street wheels have a 60 degree seat angle.
it would be a real pi$$er to have the wheels come loose and booger up the lug nut holes from using the wrong nutz............
you did say you were going to get some hub centric rings ?

Yessir i saw you mentioned that so i looked into it and ordered the lug nuts. As far as the hib centric ring ill get it once i get my new axles ordered from moser if i need to.

Good looking wheel, definitely lends a NASCAR vibe; especially if the car sits low with a bit of rake.
Hopefully the center has enough ID for Mopar applications. May be time for fresh spindle dust caps !

A12, I run 275/60s on 15x8/4.5BS on both of my Road Runners, plenty of clearance.

if i'm not mistaken, [not that i have EVER been before ] those wheels have the basic 3" or slightly larger, center hole that most wheels have to fit a bunch of different hub sizes.
Mally, glad to see you got the right nutz coming. it's also a good idea to get the wheels in hand to measure the center hole for the hub-centric rings.
those center holes can vary quite a lot from brand to brand and style, so best to measure and see.
something to keep in mind about those rings. unless you get custom rings made, you might have to get rings that are "close", then chuck them up in the lathe to get them to size.
i have had to do that twice. not a hard job, but you have to watch tightening the lathe chuck so you don't deform the rings.
also, almost all of those rings are measured in mm, so you will have to figure out what size they are. [i'm not a mm fan. just too old to fiddle with the conversion math. ]

Yessss thays my exact thoughts. Then i thought about if i am ordering custom axles from moser i could have them made to fit the center bore ? Just a thought

I think it gives a nice look, plus ita different. Something you dont often see. Which i LOVE being different but still have the somewhat old school look.

those wheels have a 3.09" center hole Mopar uses a 2.82" hub. wheel center 78.5 mop hub 71.5. I think these are the rings that come closest to you will need. Looks like the size goes from 78.1 to 79.5
https://www.amazon.com/ZHTEAPR-Centric-78-1mm-Aluminium-Hubrings/dp/B085T8XMG1/ref=sr_1_1?

Awesome i screen shotted that from the link, now when i order my new axles can i have them made with the correct center to fit tjose wheels? Im going with moser.

Did you end up mounting wheels yet ? I didn’t read the whole thread. I have a 70 super bee with 29x15-15 mickeys on the back of it with 15x10 wheels, I can’t remember the backspacing but they fit nicely, and look good to these eyes. I don’t think you’ll have trouble.

Nope not yet i ordered the wheels. 4 to 6 week wait for them yet. And i havent ordered the tires yet.

you might want to search out the tires now, while waiting on the wheels.
since there have been buyouts in the tire industry, there may be problems obtaining the tires you want.

Ill check i was going to get a 295/65 in a mickey thompson or hoosier. Ill have a long while yet till im ready for those. I have some on it now to move it around

Barrett-Jackson Houston this past weekend