cooling system upgrade options

my 1966 Satellite
A recent purchase so I dont know much about the engines internals. Its a 383 and am told compression is in the 9.5 range , Stealth Aluminum heads . car will run on regular unleaded to problems so its not to high Timing is set in the low teens range as baseline
But car runs 200 or better, and get into the 220 or more range in traffic. It will cool down slightly once moving steadily. But stays in the 200-205 range . Far to hot for my taste. Ive tried 3 different thermostats , from a standard 180 stant, A high flow Mr Gasket and lastly a 180 Stewart Components and none have made any difference . And ambient temps have been in the 80 to mid 90s range. I currently have no thermostat in it and made no change what so ever


Ive found out the car has an aluminum water pump hsg from MP , And that the radiator is a 22 inch Champion and it has zero provisions for a shroud

Is there a better choice for a radiator and still keep it 22" and add a shroud out there

up grading to a larger 26 is an option if I have to as a last resort ,,,I just dont like the look that comes with it and still keeping the stock 22" opening
. Keeping it stock OE looking is not factor on this car


My other 2 cars ( one Hemi, one 440 and both 26" radiators ) have a Stewart Componets 180 in them and they run right on the stat fi moving, but creep up a tad to maybe upper 190s range in traffic but cool right back down once moving steadily

the first thing i would want to know is, what fan are you using, and what ratio is the water pump to crank [pulley sizes] ?
sharp looking engine compartment by the way.

Fan is a lighter than stock fix blade style.
Blade size and shape is similar to OE stock.

Pulleys are original and stock sizes for a non air car.

I could see fan being an issue at idle.

But not a factor at cruising speeds

one thing you could try is making up a cardboard piece that would go between the radiator support and grille/hood latch support.
this would block whatever air is/may be blowing over the top of the radiator, forcing it to go through the core.
it would be simple to make, cost nothing but your time and a couple of pieces of duct tape of your choice.
it might be just what is needed.
just throwing something out there for you to ponder.

Step 1 is to verify your readings preferrably with a digital thermocouple or RTD.
Second is to realize all radiator/ cores are not created equal.
I've lost thousands ( like 5 or more) of $$ and way more hours than I like to admit to chasing the exact issue on a customers 22 in equipped R/T.
Final Solution, a Glen ray core in the same radiator. POOF, heating issue GONE!!!!
both at idle and cruise in 100 degree temps.

I'd want to verify readings, as stated, using heat gun and/or mech gauge.
(You may already have a mech gauge from what you're saying.)
Also verify coolant flow through system after a flush.
Verify the cap is proper pressure, and seals & holds pressure.
You can try a few things:
Make sure all the air in front of the radiator has to pass through it, as already noted.
(Early Bs had a rubber flap to aid that.)
You can speed up the fan with a smaller fan pulley.
You can fab shroud brackets, and Speedway has some universal shrouds for $50 or less IIRC.
Increase the ratio of water to antifreeze, say 75/25 vs 50/50.
A 26" in a 22" opening doesn't look bad on a non-OEM application, but I'm not thinking you need to do that.
My 512" Duster went from 200-220 temps to 170-180 temps by speeding the fan up and adding a shroud.

I have this radiator from ECP in my Savoy with a pretty hot mill under the hood and it stays at 180 and creeps up to 190 in traffic sometimes in 80 degree heat. I haven't installed a shroud yet but I'm sure that would help my traffic cooling. I have the 180 Robert Shaw stat, 1 to 1 stock type pulleys, and a 7 blade thermo clutch fan.
edit, also have the Flowcooler HV water pump
https://speedcooling.com/product/26...5o_yg-gIVIP7jBx2hQwR5EAYYASABEgIUmvD_BwE

Gus

Thanks all for the replies so far.

I have to make a last minute trip to KY this week. So it will be late next week before I can get back to it at the earliest

And I want to open up the water pump and the pump hsg to verify no issues. Then ,,if all is good probably change radiator to something better flowing and capable to install a shroud

I have a 22"champion 3 row on my 600 hp hemi and it cools it fine. Factory radiator ran hot. I have an alum pump,180 high flow stat,fixed blade fan and half shroud. It attaches with 4 plastic bolts that goes between the cooling fins. No problems in 10 years.

You could find a stock 22" radiator and send it to Glen Ray and get the maxi cool mod, then do the normal stock stuff like a 7 blade clutch fan and a shroud. You don't need any thing fancy for your set up. I have a stock set up for a 528 Hemi and it doesn't get hot.

On this particular car. Im leaning much heavier towards an aftermkt / aluminum radiator.
Partially for the look and partially for cost and time frame. This car is no where near OE stock.
Last i talked to Bob at Glenray he was 4 to 6 months out to have a radiator done.

If i can cool it down with a nice aluminum rad and save some time / money. I will go that route

There are a couple places selling aluminum radiators that mimic the OEM contours.
Might even accept an OEM-style shroud.
An add-on trans cooler might also help, plumbed "before" the radiator.

I put a Cold Case radiator in my big block Dart. Works great and the factory shroud bolted right up to it.

These have been recommended by a few others with good results
In either 22 inch or 26 incb should i decide to upsize

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293394774126

That looks like a nice rad, I would go 26" though

Gus

By a high quality factory replacement radiator and install a factory shroud.

hi ,

raise your base timing to 18 deg and add a fan shroud !

then retest !

Seems a few years back people on here were saying some of the aluminum housings were made funny and didn’t flow right. Can’t remember the specifics. I’m not sure a shroud will solve all of what you want as going down the road should bring the temps down to what the system can hold.

Start by purchasing a good temperature gauge and then check that the new gauge reads 32 degrees F in stirred ice water,
and 210 to 211 in boiling water ( 212 degrees only if you are at sea level)

Only thing uglier than unpainted aluminum heads on a Mopar is a big ol' unpainted aluminum radiator. I got a custom brass radiator from US Radiator. It's painted black and looks stock'ish, but the core has tighter fin placement. A factory shroud and clutch fan combine to give excellent cooling even with an A/C condenser in front of it.