90* Oil Filter Adapter

So what is the best angle to the block to mount the 90* filter adapter on the 340 in a Challenger ? any pics. or thoughts ? Thanks Kevin

are you using headers or factory manifolds ?
if it were me, i would mount the exhaust of choice on the engine first, then decide what position the 90 degree adapter would work best with your oil filter of choice.
this should be done with the engine in the car to see if the torsion bar may be in the road as well.
for trial fit, leave the gaskets out so you can rotate the housing with ease. when satisfied with the position, make a reference mark on both the housing and the block, then remove the housing and install the gaskets.
just how i would approach this installation.
your mileage will vary.

^^^ this

Well, that is pretty much what I did. I'm using the stock cast iron manifolds. I plan on breaking it in on an engine run stand so I'll have to make sure when installing in the car I watch it.
By the way does anyone know what the torque on the hollow center mounting bolt should be, what about using thread locker on it ??? Thanks, Kevin

Here are a couple pics of survivor motors showing the angle that I saved from earlier posts on this topic. The close-in shot shows the alignment casting markings on the adaptor and the block. I installed one recently and used this gasket set. I don’t recall the torque but I think I followed the FSM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274465065689

Thanks Floyd, thats what I was after. I was wondering also if those could be some " alignment " casting points. Kevin

Put it where it fits.

I had a small block in a tube car with a midplate and plenty of room and rotated the thing 180* to tuck it up along side the block. Worked great. Not going to affect how it works.

I know this isn't responding to the question, but have you considered a remote mount? Best thing I ever did on my Diplomat Police car which had one of those adapters. I ran braided steel lines up front with quality an fittings and it's 100% leak free and I can run a larger filter mounted vertically so no spills and I can completely fill the filter during oil changes. So much better. AND it moves it away from the heat of manifold/header.

Larry, when running those lines, did you experience any loss in oil pressure ?
a long [long !] time ago, i did that same thing, but used a spin-on adapter and had some hydraulic hoses made up.
the engine lost about 10lbs at both hot idle and rpm [if i remember right].
i solved that by a couple of washers in the bypass spring.
i'm thinking the made up hoses had something to do with that, but being so long ago, i never tried to find out why that happened.
since that time, i have never done another remote filter install, so from time to time when someone does a remote, i'm tempted to ask this question, but i never do.
just asking an "old man stoopid question of the day".

Stock adapter: just clock it to where the filter access is best, and/or least amount of spillage.
On my SB race motors I ran remote filter for several reasons, used -10 plumbing, no problems with oil pressure.

I did not lose pressure. Fair question to ask. Car did have a factory oil cooler with smaller lines but no noticeable drop in pressure.

the hoses i used at the time were made to fit the adapter's threads, which were 3/8npt [if i remember correctly]
they were pretty big, and hard to rout because of how stiff the hydraulic hose was.
if i were to do it today, i think i would use only the amount of hose necessary to get to where the vehicle tin started, allowing for engine movement, then go to hard line of a reasonable size, say 1/4 or 5/16".