Procedure to start a vehicle after sitting for approx. 1yr?

For those of us that put away their Mopars in October, then bring them back out sometime during the spring (more like summer in MI), what steps do you like to check/perform before turning it over?

I've had my vehicles sit as long as 5 yrs (garaged)....I change the oil/filter, antifreeze,fresh gas, fill the carbs with gas thru the vent tubes, and I fill the engine with oil just before I light it off, so as to flood the cam/lifter valley area....never had an issue with the 10 vehicles I've owned over the last few decades .... I just started up my daughter's "new" to her, 1961 Fury/Bev that sat for 20 yrs in the owner's garage untouched, last year, granted it needed a new tank/lines/fuel pump/carb,....but the motor turned and fired right up with zero issues with a new oil/filter/ and antifreeze after a generous block flush..zero issues for the motor.

MikeG

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I put Mine away in late October with drygas run through the system..take out the battery...lower the visors..put some decon on the carpets and all around the garage and cover. Come April I install battery and fire the beast up. Run until warm and then change oil and filter. Same with snowblower and lawn mower. Never a problem.

I put mine away in Oct...got it out in May. Check oil and anti-freeze, install charged battery and fire it up. Done it like that for well over 25 years...zero issues.

I just charge up the battery, check the fluids I can, put some fresh gas in, put a splash of gas down the carb and fire it up.

Of course that assumes you stored it properly, which is what the question ought to have been.

Put some gas in a Coke bottle, dump in carb, start. One more time if it stalls

Thank you for the feedback thus far.

Wanted to ask the form about removing coil plug from distributor and cranking a couple times, then reinstalling plug. I'm told this step helps to bring some oil up before actually starting, but does that cause engine engine/system damage? Thoughts?

I’m not a big fan of that as the engine is still fighting compression. Taking the plugs out and spinning it without compression is beneficial, but more work. With the plugs in I want it to fire as soon as possible.

^^^ Agree.
A couple other quick light-off tricks are carb cleaner or starting fluid sprayed into the carb.
With a remote starter switch & key in run, you can light the car off standing next to it.
Don't look into the carb while doing this, though...

When mine has sat for a while I like to pull the distributor and intermediate shaft (I take quick pics of location of both with cell phone for quick re-assembly) and use a hex priming tool with a drill to get oil throughout the engine first.

NONE! Some will say a bit of cranking may help by priming the oiling system but other will say it's going to take the same number of revolutions whether it's running or not.
However then again the lower end is not under the same load while cranking as it is running, but the lifter to cam interface is not getting lubed,

So, the correct answer depends on whether you are a democrat or republican? LOL

On a more serious side I don't know anyone that has done anything other than hit the electric pump, give it 2 or 3 pumps and hit the key, or crank till it gets fuel while pumping until it starts.

You forgot a very important step as some have already mentioned, check and CHARGE the battery

I check the charge by turning the key. If it turns and fires, charge good. If it don't turn, charge the battery.

Kevin

I disconnectthe batteries when parking for extended periods. Current one in my 38 I believe is about done after ~ 12 years

I don't do anything except reconnect the negative battery cable and fire it up. Never a problem in over 40 years.

I like to prime with a drill on a nice engine. If it’s and older hi miler just start it up. Yes charge batt and fill the float bowls first.

Cranking with coil wire off to get oil pressure is counter productive, just start it is a better idea. More RPM and quicker oil pressure.

Next time you have the intake off, pour 5 quarts of oil in the usual valve cover filler. It does not flood the lifter valley, it runs down in a few areas and the rest of it is dry. Along with most of the cam lobes.

if you are changing the oil anyway, i have a pressure tank i fill with oil and 45psi, then attach the outlet hose to the oil pressure switch/gauge tap, then push the needed quantity of oil through there.
it seems to work, as there is instant oil pressure upon start up. as i always do, the filter is filled before installing it.
however, i have often wondered just how the oil goes through the engine passage[s] using this method, and if it works like i hope it should.

It won't unless the engine is rotating. Even then you're still lacking the splash oiling for the cam lobes and lifters

i forgot to add, i rotate the engine with a ratchet and socket on the crank damper bolt.
you are correct about the splash oiling on the cam and lifters.
next engine i have on the stand, i'll have to remember to try this with the intake off, to see what happens.

I turn the key on, wait for the EFI system to prime, scan the digital dash to make sure everything looks good, flip the switch to prime the oil system, then hit the starter.

I connect the negative battery terminal, turn the key to "run", let the fuel pump fill the carburetor,
pump the throttle a few times and fire it up.

Sometimes I might get fancy and pump the throttle from under the hood, with the air cleaner off, or might hook up
a battery charger for a few minutes.

Did this with the flat tappet iron head 440 that served me well 1990 to 2001. Pulled to upgrade with nothing wrong with it.

Just a year or even season at that... check the fluid levels, stick a battery in it or charge and hook it up if it's already there and turn the key like normal.