Moparts

vapor locking

Posted By: b body idiot

vapor locking - 06/11/22 12:17 PM

I have a 69 Superbee 440 , 4spd. having vapor locking problems any ideas on fixing problem would help .
Posted By: 69hemibeep

Re: vapor locking - 06/11/22 12:33 PM

Are you using the vapor separator and return line that came with 440's and hemi's ?
Posted By: b body idiot

Re: vapor locking - 06/11/22 12:44 PM

Yes its been on the car for about 5yrs was wondering if it needed replaced. Also wondering if its because of the fuel .
Posted By: lewtot184

Re: vapor locking - 06/11/22 04:47 PM

if the return line and vapor separator are working properly then check fuel pressure and pump rod. the hipo 440's used a high pressure 2 valve pump, not the standard (383, lopo 440) 2 valve pump. the standard pump may only do 3psi.
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 06/11/22 05:05 PM

if you're using ethanol based fuel it does have a lower boiling point than traditional fuel. An electric pump out back helps as well as trying to get the lines and carb isolated from heat sources as much as possible. Especially if the line runs past the intake heat crossover. old tale says wooden clothes pins work but never tried them
Don't know about the thermal wraps but I'm a bit sketchy on them. I've requested data ( temp measurements) from several suppliers with no response whistling beer
Posted By: wingman

Re: vapor locking - 06/11/22 09:22 PM

I had good luck with the Edelbrock carb baseplate insulating gasket. They are cheap and don't add much height.

Anything you can do to keep heat from the engine from moving into the carb won't hurt.
Posted By: autoxcuda

Re: vapor locking - 06/11/22 09:36 PM

What does you engine compartment fuel routing situation look like right now?

Lines flopped over too close or touching intake, block, etc can get hot faster. Bend or support line away from heat sources.

All my metal lines in the engine compartment have heat insulation on them. And they are routed as far as possible from heat sources. I run cheap California ethanol high evaporative gas with mechanical fuel pump and no pressure regulator. Never had issue and drive in 90+ degree heat at times.

May insulated fuel line does rub across that breather tube. But it's actually made out of PVC and a long path from valve cover. It doesn't retain heat. When I replace it with a metal breather crossover, I'll put some distance between the two.

[Linked Image]
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 01:49 AM

One could try fabbing an aluminum plate that would lay over the heat cross over area running the length of the fuel line. I'm thinking a drop in plate that would lock itself in place but be easily removed at shows 9with gloves wink
Posted By: 440_Offroader

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 03:46 PM

The insulated fuel line on the small block looks nice and clean. However, the 440 has the distributor in that area, which makes routing more challenging. What kind of line insulation is it BTW?
Posted By: CKessel

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 04:07 PM

This has been a popular subject for remedies and bandaids to nullify the vapor lock issue. One poster on the FBBO forum found that the current ethanol added fuels, especially here in Cali with more added chemicals, start boiling at around 150*. Think about that. Your engine is running anywhere from 170* to 220*+ just in the coolant. Add in the extra heat from what the exhaust, external surface area of the engine, accessories etc generate to add on top of what your gauge shows. Since the boiling point of the fuel is way lower it seems the venting systems that used to work now cannot keep up with the extra vapor pressure being generated. If you are able to get unadulterated gas, that would be your best bet otherwise you'll need to see what others have done to get around the situation. Like adding EFI to your ride.
Posted By: autoxcuda

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 04:15 PM

Originally Posted by 440_Offroader
The insulated fuel line on the small block looks nice and clean. However, the 440 has the distributor in that area, which makes routing more challenging. What kind of line insulation is it BTW?


ThermoTec. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-18050?rrec=true

Aeroquip, Earls, etc sell it too.
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by autoxcuda
Originally Posted by 440_Offroader
The insulated fuel line on the small block looks nice and clean. However, the 440 has the distributor in that area, which makes routing more challenging. What kind of line insulation is it BTW?


ThermoTec. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-18050?rrec=true

Aeroquip, Earls, etc sell it too.


My concern with the above recommendations is that none of the companies responded to my requests for data on the effectiveness of their products. IE:
With A carbureted system,120 degree fuel in a steel line passes by a heat source like an exhaust manifold that is radiating 800 degree heat for 2 feet. The line is X inches away. and the flow rate is Y under the same controlled conditions
The fuel exit temperature without your product is ? A
The fuel exit temperature WITH you product is? B
Keeping in mind that with a carbureted system some of the fuel may be sitting next to that manifold while idling or cruising so the flow rate is critical especially at lower speeds / idling.

While I realize it may be hard to give a clear answer as there are many variables involved but a few "Static laboratory tests" would show / prove the effectiveness of their product.
I compare them to the thermal sleeves on spark plug wires that work for a short time. They do accomplish what they were marketed to do though, and that is GET $$ form your wallet to THEIRS

The one method that does work but is a PITA to implement is to run a return line to the tank with a restricted ID that will keep the unused fuel moving back to the tank while maintaining adequate pressure at WOT.
This is why the fuel injected vehicles don't have issues. beer
Posted By: autoxcuda

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by autoxcuda
Originally Posted by 440_Offroader
The insulated fuel line on the small block looks nice and clean. However, the 440 has the distributor in that area, which makes routing more challenging. What kind of line insulation is it BTW?


ThermoTec. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-18050?rrec=true

Aeroquip, Earls, etc sell it too.


My concern with the above recommendations is that none of the companies responded to my requests for data on the effectiveness of their products. IE:
With A carbureted system,120 degree fuel in a steel line passes by a heat source like an exhaust manifold that is radiating 800 degree heat for 2 feet. The line is X inches away. and the flow rate is Y under the same controlled conditions
The fuel exit temperature without your product is ? A
The fuel exit temperature WITH you product is? B
Keeping in mind that with a carbureted system some of the fuel may be sitting next to that manifold while idling or cruising so the flow rate is critical especially at lower speeds / idling.

While I realize it may be hard to give a clear answer as there are many variables involved but a few "Static laboratory tests" would show / prove the effectiveness of their product.
I compare them to the thermal sleeves on spark plug wires that work for a short time. They do accomplish what they were marketed to do though, and that is GET $$ form your wallet to THEIRS

The one method that does work but is a PITA to implement is to run a return line to the tank with a restricted ID that will keep the unused fuel moving back to the tank while maintaining adequate pressure at WOT.
This is why the fuel injected vehicles don't have issues. beer


Did you go to manufacturers website specs? Aeroquip, Parker, etc.

https://specialtyhose.com/index_htm_files/Protective%20Sleeving%20eng%20bulletin.pdf

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3299
Quote
Aeroquip Heavy-Duty Firesleeve (Orange), per Inch

Firesleeve is great for protecting hoses or wires from heat, flame or abrasion. The thick, braided fiberglass tubing is covered with reddish-orange silicone rubber for a continuous operating temperature rating of -65° F to 500° F and short-term protection against 2000° flames.

All sizes (except 0.31") meet the fire resistance requirements of FAA TSO-C53a and TSO-C75 when properly installed. Aeroquip Firesleeve (0.44" and larger) is an NHRA-approved brake line covering.

Price is per inch. Maximum continuous length 120 inches



I don’t have a return line, don’t have electric fuel pump, run lousy gas…. And I don’t have a vapor lock problem.

Not sure I can mathematically pick out one golden egg, fail safe fix item. The sleeve is $30 and the fuel line used to bend was under $20

Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 06:56 PM

buy better gasoline scope twocents
Posted By: Sniper

Re: vapor locking - 06/12/22 07:12 PM

Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
buy better gasoline scope twocents


Answers without a solution are useless.

Some don't have the option of buying better gasoline.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 06:14 AM

Originally Posted by Sniper
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
buy better gasoline scope twocents


Answers without a solution are useless.

Some don't have the option of buying better gasoline.

I bought some really bad regular gasoline in the summer (August after 12.00 noon) of 1980 in Barstow, CA on the way to Las Vegas for a bracket race from a cheapo station, it was horrible on vapor locking, I ended up tying a rag around the gas line from the mechanical fuel pump up to the carb and sprayed it with water from my garden sprayer that I used to cool down the race car radiator between rounds. It would go about 5 miles and start vapor locking again rant puke That was a 1957 Dodge one ton truck with a race car hauler ramp and storage compartment with a later model Poly 318 motor in it.
That started at the bottom of the Baker grade on Hwy 15, that grade is right at 17 miles long to the top whiney
A old timer told me later to take wood clothes pins and put them on the gas line to the carb.help keep it cool, that work very well boogie up scope
Posted By: TimS

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 10:46 AM

Most of my past vapor locking issues have led me to the fuel pump push rod. The rod over time wears on one or both ends, shortens up, and doesn’t allow a full pump lever stroke. Assuming you still have the mechanical pump installed.
Posted By: lewtot184

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 11:48 AM

both of my cars are street driven. one runs at very reasonable temps during the summer and the other runs hotter than i like. both use carter 6903 pumps and return lines. my '69 rt uses the factory style and my 65 coronet uses something i made. i do use heat insulator gaskets for both cars and neither has ever had a hint of vapor lock. the alcohol in pump gas is a real pump gas problem with no solutions. i think the only real solution is adequate fuel pressure and a way to push the vapors out of the fuel line no matter mechanical or electric pump. basically, don't dead head the fuel line.
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 01:35 PM

Originally Posted by b body idiot
I have a 69 Superbee 440 , 4spd. having vapor locking problems any ideas on fixing problem would help .


What carb and intake and air cleaner on the engine ?

10-15% ethanol fuel ?

Is the heat crossover in the intake blocked ?
Posted By: Diplomat360

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 01:40 PM

Since this setup has been working reliably for a while, and you encountered problems only recently, I am guessing that the responses so far are probably much closer to the real root-cause. However, I will share my experience with this problem since no one has mentioned this as the possible culprit so far.

Small block, mechanical fuel pump, carb bowl vent line to the charcoal can and vapour return line to the tank, Carter TQ (9800 series) carb. I had meticulously set up the carb prior to getting this thing on the engine. Point being: bowl vent was functional, etc., etc.

Well, as I got the car running and kept on adjusting things eventually that caused my fuel bowl vent the get out of whack, result being: car was a bear to start as soon as I would have it sitting for as little as 10-15 mins.

At first I thought maybe it was just my fast ignition curve with about 23 deg. initial timing, but the starter wasn't fighting me...so what's next? Well, I went back to the basics, re-checked things and sure enough found out that my bowl wasn't venting anymore. Fixed that (super easy on the TQ), and went back to enjoying the car.

No heat wrapping anywhere, just a 3/8" fuel line feeding "da beast" lol
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 03:20 PM

Originally Posted by autoxcuda
[
Did you go to manufacturers website specs? Aeroquip, Parker, etc.

https://specialtyhose.com/index_htm_files/Protective%20Sleeving%20eng%20bulletin.pdf

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3299
Quote
Aeroquip Heavy-Duty Firesleeve (Orange), per Inch

Firesleeve is great for protecting hoses or wires from heat, flame or abrasion. The thick, braided fiberglass tubing is covered with reddish-orange silicone rubber for a continuous operating temperature rating of -65° F to 500° F and short-term protection against 2000° flames.

All sizes (except 0.31") meet the fire resistance requirements of FAA TSO-C53a and TSO-C75 when properly installed. Aeroquip Firesleeve (0.44" and larger) is an NHRA-approved brake line covering.

Price is per inch. Maximum continuous length 120 inches



I don’t have a return line, don’t have electric fuel pump, run lousy gas…. And I don’t have a vapor lock problem.

Not sure I can mathematically pick out one golden egg, fail safe fix item. The sleeve is $30 and the fuel line used to bend was under $20



Yes I did, but none gave the temperature differential possible when using their product. IE:

In laboratory testing simulating typical under hood temperatures of U, fuel reached X degrees without our product

Repeating the test under the same conditions resulted in a temperature of Y or a drop of Z degrees

Nor did they respond to my requests for expected results. That indicates to me they don't know and likely haven't tested the product BUT will sell it to you frown down beer

Posted By: Sniper

Re: vapor locking - 06/13/22 11:58 PM

My 51 Plymouth is like that. Runs just fine, can set for weeks on end and fire right up. I don't use any special fuels or anything. Whatever pump swill is at the local Shell.

The interesting thing about this setup is that the factory flathead induction system sit right atop the factory exhaust manifold, the runners are nestled together as well. No phenolic spacer, no clothespins, no heat shields or anything. Mechanical pump.

I don't have fuel percolation or vapor lock issues. Others with similar setups do. I dunno why, unless that "contains up to 10% ethanol" is really E0. We do have one station in town that sells ethanol free gas, but I don't need to pay the vig for that as I don't have an issue.
Posted By: SomeCarGuy

Re: vapor locking - 06/14/22 12:50 PM

I have an issue with a surge at idle after driving for awhile. I suspect since this is a stone stock 69 440 car that the carb is getting way too hot for the modern gas. If I put on a thicker gasket, will the choke pull off need a likewise raise? Will that still work when raised out of the well?

There used to be a 3/8 tall spacer that came in avs rebuild kits that might do enough for me. I used one on my last car with an aluminum intake and it worked great. I tired it back to back with a thin paper gasket and the slight hot start lag went away and the engine fired right off.
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 06/14/22 03:39 PM

If the choke is currently working well and you raise the carb 3/8", the choke rod will either need to be lengthened by the same amount or a hollowed out spacer of the same thickness should be placed between the choke assy. and manifold heat well beer
Posted By: shanker

Re: vapor locking - 06/14/22 07:10 PM

I just went thru this on my wife's 74 Ramcharger with a 440. I ended up running a new 5/16 dedicated return line to the tank, re-configuring the tank, and using a fuel filter with a vapor discharge orifice to return to the tank. Here's a pretty complete write up I did on RamChargerCentral:

https://www.ramchargercentral.com/threads/74-ramcharger-36g-fuel-tank-upgrade-modification.332569


The truck would start to cut out and idling in traffic (ferry line which is 30 minutes to two hours waiting to get out on the island, Port Aransas, TX). I haven't gotten to the point in testing where I can say I *fixed* it, but if I continue to have problems, rather than insulate the line from the filter to the carburetor, I'm going to either build some heat shields to isolate it, or perhaps solder heat syncs onto the fuel line (like the little one used on computer chips). After watching a recent episode of engine masters where they tested header coatings and wraps, what I took away from that is that the insulation will hold the heat for longer if it was used on a fuel line. I get a 50* drop across my radiator with a shroud and fan which moves MASSIVE amounts of air. I also observed lowered engine bay temps after putting on the factory splash shields between the frame rails and inner fenders, I suspect that it has to do with the air being moved across the engine bay and down/out the bottom of the firewall now due to the addition of the splash guards.
Posted By: SomeCarGuy

Re: vapor locking - 06/15/22 03:35 AM

Originally Posted by TJP
If the choke is currently working well and you raise the carb 3/8", the choke rod will either need to be lengthened by the same amount or a hollowed out spacer of the same thickness should be placed between the choke assy. and manifold heat well beer


Thanks
Posted By: lewtot184

Re: vapor locking - 06/15/22 11:56 AM

if using the thick insulator gasket the choke mechanism (OEM chokes) can be adjusted to compensate for the height.
Posted By: SomeCarGuy

Re: vapor locking - 06/15/22 06:58 PM

Stuck my phone in there and got this. Could I just have the wrong pump? This doesn’t look like the “muscle car pump” Mancini has on their site.

Who has correct ones? Or if edelbrock still makes them with quality I could run one of those. They were good 15 years ago when I bought one.

Probably will need to run the thicker gasket under the carb still just because.

Attached picture 294804BA-44EC-44D9-A7EA-5FAF2A5AD777.jpeg
Posted By: wingman

Re: vapor locking - 06/15/22 07:06 PM

That's a normal looking big-block pump. Those are fine on a mild to moderate motor. I ran one for many years.

Just not rebuildable or clockable or "high flow" like the ones you see at Mancini's.

I doubt switching the pump by itself will make much difference to a vapor-locking problem.
Posted By: lewtot184

Re: vapor locking - 06/15/22 11:44 PM

do a fuel pressure test. looks like it could be a stock hipo pump but a pressure test is needed.

another thing to think about is adequate venting of the fuel tank. i did some tests on some pumps and an original hipo 440 pump pulled 19" of vacuum. in fact it pulled more vacuum than any pump i tested. if the fuel supply system isn't properly vented high vacuum in the lines can contribute to the fuel flashing.
Posted By: jlatessa

Re: vapor locking - 06/16/22 01:23 PM

As lewtot said above, fuel pressure is your friend, it raises the boiling point.

Ample pressure in the feed and ease of venting the other end will solve 90%
of your problems, my 2 cents....

Joe
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 06/16/22 02:56 PM

Originally Posted by jlatessa
As lewtot said above, fuel pressure is your friend, it raises the boiling point.

Ample pressure in the feed and ease of venting the other end will solve 90%
of your problems, my 2 cents....

Joe


Adding an electric pump to the feed has an added benefit of not having to crank the engine excessively to prime the carb after sitting for extended periods beer
Posted By: SomeCarGuy

Re: vapor locking - 06/16/22 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by lewtot184
do a fuel pressure test. looks like it could be a stock hipo pump but a pressure test is needed.

another thing to think about is adequate venting of the fuel tank. i did some tests on some pumps and an original hipo 440 pump pulled 19" of vacuum. in fact it pulled more vacuum than any pump i tested. if the fuel supply system isn't properly vented high vacuum in the lines can contribute to the fuel flashing.


My tank has lines going to the vent(s). Checked under there one day looking for a fuel leak. Saw they have newish rubber hoses on all the lines back there. When the tank is filled to the point of the deadman stopping the pump, I then can get an overflow out a vent, at least best I can tell.

This car appears to have multiple vents compared to what I remember on previous cars. Other ones I had ran the vent up into the frame rail and only had one best I can recall. This is a CA car and I’ve never had one before.

Maybe run the tank down and blow air through the vent lines?
Posted By: jlatessa

Re: vapor locking - 06/16/22 06:12 PM

Two things I thought about after my last post, if you have the three nipple filter/bypass,
check the vapor bypass outlet nipple, it's supposed to have a restriction, .060 if I remember.

Many of them came with no restriction, mine did (aftermarket), I had to solder it closed and drill the appropriate
hole through the solder.

Too large or no restriction will lower both pressure and volume to the carb.

On a Cal. car, I don't think the tank was vented to the atmosphere, so depending what you did with those 4 nipples,
you may have to drill a hole in your cap.

Joe
Posted By: 72 RR DUDE

Re: vapor locking - 06/16/22 09:32 PM

I had a 72 RR with a 440 and had the same problem and tried all kinds of stuff. Till it was all said and done the gas cap was a non vented cap so I drilled a small hole right in the center and no more vapor lock!!!
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: vapor locking - 06/16/22 10:26 PM

Carter still makes muscle car pumps that are probably a lot better than any other aftermarket OEM stock pump replacement pump aretwocents: up:
Summit sells them: scope:
Posted By: SomeCarGuy

Re: vapor locking - 07/14/22 07:30 PM

I put on the edelbrock heat shield 3/8 spacer. Think it said it was actually .32 thick. Choke seems ok unmodified. I found a weird little heat shield sandwiched in there I couldn’t see before. It was an open piece on a stock dual plane. The new one has a divider down middle. Vacuum picked up on inch with the new one. Engine actually sounds little different too. I was able to screw the mixture screws in a half turn. Unfortunately it has the surge still based on my pulling it back into the garage for the day. Hot start seemed a bit easier.

I got a .595 drill bit and my new vapor separator bought from mopar mall is about that size. The old one that came in the parts box with the car has a HUGE orfice. Not even close. The shop that did the work for the last owner did some pretty shaky stuff, if they matched that, I might well have found the culprit. So next order of business will be to change the one they put on.

Also I grabbed five gallons of race gas and added a gallon, plus about 6 fresh 93 a couple weeks ago. Car seemed to do better, but still has an issue once throughly heat soaked. Like after a handful of hard runs and then town driving.

Might end up with a 180 stat. They had a 160 in the car that I didn’t care for so I put a factory 195 in. Maybe lowering under hood temps would help with this.
Posted By: ThermoQuad

Re: vapor locking - 07/14/22 07:44 PM

You guys always kill me with your some of the troubleshooting ideas...but don't stop trying
What is the under-hood temperature at the base of the carburetor with the hood closed after driving the car and all is at temperature??
You would be surprised.....
How hot does it get at the base of the carb after a heat soak?
I have to think it's hot hot under there, just because the temp gage says normal means nothing till the temps are checked.
Proper running engines do not require band aids
Posted By: PurpleBeeper

Re: vapor locking - 07/14/22 09:06 PM

Good General Advice - Do whatever you can to keep heat away from the fuel. Carb spacers, insulated fuel lines, move lines away from headers, etc. If you have vapor lock, a mechanical fuel pressure gauge will start going down, down, down until the motor quits (I've had a lot of experience with vapor lock). Once the motor cools, it will fire right back up. FYI-I got myself home one night with a cup of Burger King ice in a shop rag placed on top of my center carb...got me home.
Posted By: Dcuda69

Re: vapor locking - 07/15/22 12:58 AM

Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by autoxcuda
Originally Posted by 440_Offroader
The insulated fuel line on the small block looks nice and clean. However, the 440 has the distributor in that area, which makes routing more challenging. What kind of line insulation is it BTW?


ThermoTec. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-18050?rrec=true

Aeroquip, Earls, etc sell it too.




The one method that does work but is a PITA to implement is to run a return line to the tank with a restricted ID that will keep the unused fuel moving back to the tank while maintaining adequate pressure at WOT.
This is why the fuel injected vehicles don't have issues. beer


The reason fuel injected engines don't suffer vapor lock issues is because of pressure...not the return line. Most late model injected stuff is returnless fuel injection.
Posted By: TJP

Re: vapor locking - 07/15/22 02:04 AM

Originally Posted by Dcuda69
Originally Posted by TJP
[


The one method that does work but is a PITA to implement is to run a return line to the tank with a restricted ID that will keep the unused fuel moving back to the tank while maintaining adequate pressure at WOT.
This is why the fuel injected vehicles don't have issues. beer


The reason fuel injected engines don't suffer vapor lock issues is because of pressure...not the return line. Most late model injected stuff is returnless fuel injection.


valid point bow wink But one cannot put 45+ PSI to a carbonmaker beer
Posted By: MoonshineMattK

Re: vapor locking - 07/15/22 05:22 PM

If any of my cars sit long enough for evaporation to empty the carburetor I spray brake cleaner into the carb before cranking. Fires right up. Might have to spray it twice but it saves the starter.

I think its good to crank a while to get oil pressure anyway if the engine has been sitting for a year.
Posted By: MoonshineMattK

Re: vapor locking - 07/15/22 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by lewtot184
another thing to think about is adequate venting of the fuel tank. i did some tests on some pumps and an original hipo 440 pump pulled 19" of vacuum. in fact it pulled more vacuum than any pump i tested. if the fuel supply system isn't properly vented high vacuum in the lines can contribute to the fuel flashing.


Agree, tank venting is important.

I've seen several cars over the years that had the factory fuel tank venting altered and it caused the tank to pull a vacuum causing the car to stall.
Posted By: MoonshineMattK

Re: vapor locking - 07/15/22 05:26 PM

Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by Dcuda69
Originally Posted by TJP
[


The one method that does work but is a PITA to implement is to run a return line to the tank with a restricted ID that will keep the unused fuel moving back to the tank while maintaining adequate pressure at WOT.
This is why the fuel injected vehicles don't have issues. beer


The reason fuel injected engines don't suffer vapor lock issues is because of pressure...not the return line. Most late model injected stuff is returnless fuel injection.


valid point bow wink But one cannot put 45+ PSI to a carbonmaker beer


Hot fuel at high pressure in the fuel line will be hot fuel at atmospheric pressure soon as it enters the float bowl where it can boil.
Posted By: poorboy

Re: vapor locking - 07/16/22 12:23 AM

Originally Posted by MoonshineMattK
If any of my cars sit long enough for evaporation to empty the carburetor I spray brake cleaner into the carb before cranking. Fires right up. Might have to spray it twice but it saves the starter.

I think its good to crank a while to get oil pressure anyway if the engine has been sitting for a year.


I sure would not recommend spraying brake cleaner into a motor. Brake cleaner produces poisonous gas when it burns.
Posted By: MoonshineMattK

Re: vapor locking - 07/16/22 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by poorboy
Originally Posted by MoonshineMattK
If any of my cars sit long enough for evaporation to empty the carburetor I spray brake cleaner into the carb before cranking. Fires right up. Might have to spray it twice but it saves the starter.

I think its good to crank a while to get oil pressure anyway if the engine has been sitting for a year.


I sure would not recommend spraying brake cleaner into a motor. Brake cleaner produces poisonous gas when it burns.


I've heard that before. We've always used non chlorinated brake cleaner. Must be why I've never had a problem. Evidently chlorinated brake cleaner can produce phosgene gas.
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