70 Charger headlight door problem, elec.

It's been on the road for 6 years, and everything has been fine up to now.

Doors quit working a few days ago and I did a couple of voltage checks at the motor
and the relay assembly. When I rewired the car, I put the relay asbly into the engine compartment
and used a Bosch relay with the little canister type, two connecter "relay"? attached with a tie wrap
just to make it easier to service.

No voltage to the motor with the lights on, and just trace voltage, (3 or 4) to the little canister terminals.

Where do I go from there to figure this out?

Thanks,

Joe

Edit, I guess I should patch another Bosch in, but I've never had one fail before??

What relays are we talking about?

Headlight doors just use one, and is triggered from light switch, hence inside the cab since must be before the floor dimmer switch.

Headlights relay upgrade themself would require two, one for each beam (although could be wired diff, but that's the standard one) and that one could be installed on engine bay, althought I installed mines into the cab between floor dimmer switch and bulkhead for a cleaner view into engine bay without relays.

So, if the doors are not coming up and headlights are working, problem is on doors relay, motor or motor wiring... or lack of ground at relay or motor.

I must add, the headlight doors relay even is triggered by the light switch is SOURCED by the Run circuit and in stock from gets a circuit breaker on this line. So, still if the trigger signal is not working, relay should still be sourcing for some of the circuits. If no one of both wires for open or close the doors is live with ign key in RUN, you can get a relay failure, circuit breaker failure or this source is broken before the relay/breaker.

Thanks all, Natcho, I found your schematic on the 3 wiring options, I used #3 and ordered
another 5 pin relay, but after looking at the wiring and the initial test I did,
I think we've lost the 12 V supply.

It's been awhile since we drove at night, and we've done some alterations to our wiring in the interim, so
we'll start there.

Thank you all,

Joe

First Nacho, sorry for misspelling your name, second, since I moved the headlight door breaker and relay next to the headlight
upgrade relays when we rewired, why don't I tap into the 12 V wire going to the low beams for door initiation?

I'll just terminate the old wire....

Joe

Don't forget. There is always the manual knob on the motor to open and close them in case of emergencies.

Yep, thanks

Joe

relay must remain into the cab because the trigger is before the floor dimmer switch. If you tap the trigger into the low beam signal, door will close as soon you put high beams... if the relay is being sourced of course.

Also, the 12 volts power should be tapped into a keyed circuit... run or acc. Originally is onto the run circuit, to allow to keep doors open while in acc for beams adjustment or replacement without get doors closed as soon you turn off the lights

there is no reason to move to the engine bay

( don't worry about the name misspeling LOL )