Is crank shot images

Short story- carb float stuck open; washed engine down. All connecting rods loose; cylinders 6/8 were worst. Images are of the connecting rod cap; bearing inside/outside; crank connecting rod journal for cylinders 6/8. The main bearing caps are tight. Crank was turned about 1/4 rotation to make removal of connecting rod cap for cylinder 8. Did not need lot of effort to turn it, but then again, I'm not an expert.

A continuation. Thanks ahead for advice/suggestions. Oh, might be important: re-built in Fall'98; has 25,000 miles. Connecting rod journals grind .040; main journals grind .030 on re-build.

Lose the pictures of the rod and cap without the bearings.

Show #7 and 8 rod bearings.

A polish will clean that right up. then new bearings.

Perfect justification for a new stroker kit.

The only Crankshaft I ever broke was turned .030 on the rods & mains.

You have one that has been turned .030 and .040 and is damaged. A polish might make it useable, but how hard are you going to use it? Have you looked at all the other journals on the crank? What are you intending to do with the rods that were on that crank journal?

If it was mine, there would be a different crank installed.

The photos are #8. I see my error about confusing #6 with #7. I'll remove #7 cap; take images; post.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm relieved to see that connecting rod journals can be salvage. Feeling hopeful about situation.

It's hard to conclude anything useful from a sample size of 1 Couldn't it be equally likely that that crank had a LOT of hard use, having been turned down three times?

What about turning the rod journal down for a 2.100 Chevy rod? Those engines don't seem to break cranks constantly

Measure twice (rods I.D., all 8, and all crank journals) before deciding
I would think about having that crank offset ground down to BB Chevy rod journal size and increase the stroke and use a new set of H beam 7.100 long rods and piston made to match your desire results on compression and ring sizes. Why not go big now

Are you posting the upper rod bearing surface(that contacts the crank) or the bottom. Also what brand bearings are they?

Images of #7/8 journal; #7 bearing. Bearings shown are from the connecting rod cap(?). Lower connecting rod? Thanks again for everybody's input.

What do the bearing halves out of the rods look like? They will probably look worse.

Is that journal the worst of them? If so, you may be able to have it polished, put new bearings in it and run it. Did it spin any bearings? If it did, you are looking at having the rods resized, otherwise I would measure the inside of the rod and if it's in spec use them.

New crank time, not worth the money to fix, its used up, no more room to cut.

Elmore 353: I only checked #7/8 connecting rods b/c they were the most loose. My thinking was if 7/8 journal was the worst, then the others would be repairable.
Cudamann: I was leaning towards your thinking, but not knowledgeable enough about cranks, so I figured let me see what experienced people have to say.
Engine is getting dropped-off at an engine builder who has down some engine work for me before.

A polish will fix way worse than that, around 75 bucks around here.