0-40 Synthetic oil .. what’s your choice ?

... and why ?

Mobil 1, cause you can get it just about anywhere and the price isn't to high, compared to other syn oils. Besides my 95 Neon engine went almost 500,000 miles when a piston broke which wasn't the oils fault.

Signature Series 0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil Amsoil. Meets SRT specs and well rated.

I use Mobil 1 in all my late model stuff. Good prices at Walmart....the ONLY reason I walk into that craphole store.

Mobil 1 0w-40, why? Seems to me that Mercedes, BMW, VW/Audi have done decades of testing and development with that brand and that viscosity. Yes I have a couple of them ferrin cars and use only that with no bad results......so far I even use it in several big displacement V-Twin motorcycles and one 1000cc 4-cylinder "flying brick" also with good or is that no bad results.

Yup, Mobil 1 . . . Usually can find it "on sale" (walmart ? Canadian Tire (for use canucks) ) at half price for the 5ltr jug !

Lotsa recommendations from B13 guyz ...

Now correct me if I’m wrong .... since I’ve never used M1 .....

Isn’t M1 a darker blend of oil ? I kind of prefer a lighter color oil so you can tell the condition of the oil with it getting darker with age and contaminants..... aka blow-by.

Thoughts on that observation ?

^^^

I'm sure there are other acceptable oils on the market. However, I've been using the 5w30 Signature in my '02 WRX for years and believe it's a high-quality oil that holds up well to modern performance engine demands. I know Mopar says to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 in my new 1320, but it'll get Amsoil when I change the oil & filter the first time.

Just use vasoline. If you worry about oil condition and contaminants get it analyzed.

I agree. I have been using Mobil 1 0-40 fully synthetic in my 2013 VW GTI as soon as the dealer stopped providing no-charge oil changes at 36,000 miles. I now have 150,200 miles on the car. Because I commute a lot, I change my oil between 8-10K miles. The reason I trust the product is that several years ago I tried an off-brand fully synthetic oil (factory weight spec of 5-30) and the engine had burned a full quart by 6000 miles. I know my engine and this wasn't normal at all. Switching back to Mobile 1 resolved that issue. To this day, I can go 10,000 miles on an oil change and burn just over a quart in that time.

I'm sure there are better oils than the Mobil 1 I'm running, but I can get the 5 quarts I need for under $30 and the better oils would cost me more. I'm pretty impressed by it and have no plans on changing.

Haven't we had this discussion before, right after you bought that scatty-lac?

OMG Doc, this is like the 6th time you have asked about 0W40 synthetic oil.

SRT engine oil ... what-da-fugg !!!:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2771138/srt-engine-oil-what-da-fugg.html

Your choice for SRT warranty engine oil ? .....
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...-choice-for-srt-warranty-engine-oil.html

SRT spec engine oil ?
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2884459/re-srt-spec-engine-oil.html

Is this an acceptable 0-40 SRT oil ?:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread.../is-this-an-acceptable-0-40-srt-oil.html

Any SRT oil deals out there ?
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2987596/any-srt-oil-deals-out-there.html

…and now he’s in search of “a lighter colored oil”. Can’t make this stuff up folks!

I am SO sorry... I didn't mean to be an enabler!

Hey man. Be cool! He needs the lighter oil so he can use any left over to try and rejuvenate old tires.
He may Beez Retired but do want to Re_TiRe

aLoHa all .... some peeps and have been busy !

And to THE ABOVE ... ^^^^ .... 340TQ ... who used the word REFRESH on that trailer tire post ......

Eat my shorts ....

I’ll BE BACK ....

Mr Gasser... what spec does your fave brand of lUbrIcAtIoN qualify for

Pink chickadee and Mayor Wheeler, dealer, SQUEALER.....,

PINKster .... THIS discussion? How so ? I have asked for specific so-called SRT oils previously. I ask in the here and now for just 0-40 syn opinions ....

Now to the Mayor ... AGAIN - this topic is diff ! ... now I’m flattered that you follow my posts and topics so closely.... but I AM SURPRISED that you didn’t mention all the topics about the pillow pimp ??!!

Carry on !

Red Line Performance or Amsoil Signiture. Both cost about the same.
https://www.redlineoil.com/0w40-motor-oil
https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-0w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-azf/

For low cost, Castrol Edge or Mobile-1

Speaking of cost, Mobil 1 can be had for $53.00/12 quarts if you buy the box with plastic bladder inside with spigot. That's $4.42 per quart before tax.

However, 0W-40 "European Car Formula" for a Mopar muscle car? Don't sound right to me.

Comments like these are so misplaced. Why doesn't it sound right? Let's try to remember European vehicles have their version of economy and their version of "muscle". They have a very consistent and long standing tradition of producing high horse machines. In my opinion, if its manufactured to a degree thats approved for vehicles like that, its certainly good enough for our American iron, more than likely better.

Also, I think I have read somewhere, they had to change it to this title and change the formulation to meet the euro spec 100% synthetic mark, which is different than a "fully synthetic" motor oil.

[/quote] Why doesn't it sound right? [/quote]



Not sure why this is important, but

1. My Mopar was made in USA with some Canadian parts. Not Europe.

2. I don't use 40 weight oil.

There ya go.

Glad I'm not the only one who noticed.

Oil and Mypillows

one can conger up some mighty horrible images with those two thoughts ! ............

Oh yeah and none have to do with sleeping or cars

Today's modern engines are designed to use light wide range visc.oils,I don't use such light oils in higher milage/older engines, depending on what vehi/time of year I'm changing oil I use 5w/30-10w/30 or 10w/40.

Common practice used by many, many people. Unfortunately with the tolerances these engines are built with, you cannot do that. What i mean is, if it were a situation where you had to lets say, add a quart, it probably wouldn't affect the engine, but the MDS system doesn't play nice with "common grade" oils.

I have no idea what doc's aim is here besides he loves any kind of attention. He has asked this question multiple times and has gotten the same answers.

It's a misconception that today's engines are built with tighter tolerances, we just went thru this discussion of this on the P15-D24 site and the old flat head 6 actually has slightly tighter specified tolerances than the 5.7 Hemi.

But you hit on the real key issues, the MDS is picky. My SIL had the oil changed by some quicky oil change place and his Ram started getting error codes. Related to VVT and such. He took it to the dealer and they quoted him some stupid price to replace a bunch of hard parts. He called me and I talked to a bud of mine that is an expert mechanic and not someone who slept in a Holiday Inn Express. First thing he did was shoot me the TSB on this issue and step one is to change the oil and filter and retest. Turns out the oil change place had used a different and smaller oil filter than specified and who knows what oil they actually put in it. Once my SIL changed the oil and filter himself all was good. So we learned several things, do your own oil changes, that dealership is a rip off, and it's good to know people that actually know something.

Not just an MDS issue, but its has hydraulic driven timing components as well. Ive made the comment about these engine tolerances before after watching a snippet from a chrysler tech training video in regards to the 6.4. Instead of wasting time arguing, im more interested in reading the forum discussion. If you could, please post a link, I would appreciate it.

something similar happened many years ago when my brother inherited his MIL's Buick. [i forget the year, but i'm thinking it was a mid 90's model]
at that time, i was servicing the whole family's rides, plus my own, as i had done for many, many, years.
the oil that had been used for all those years was Wolf's Head 10-40. [my brother's good friend had a franchise for Wolf's Head products]
the Buick was always serviced by the local dealership, which used bulk purchased [unknown brand] 10-30.
anyway, after the first change to the 10-40 Wolf's Head, the Buick's valvetrain developed an unusual noise. i tore that apart and inspected everything except spring pressure, and could find absolutely nothing wrong.
so just for an experiment, i got 5 quarts of 10-30 Wolf's Head oil and changed out the 1-40 that was in it. that oil only had a few hundred miles on it at best, so it was saved for the lawn mower.
and as you have already guessed by now, that engine QUIETED down, and sounded like it always did !
so why did the 10-40 make the valvetrain noisy, and just changing to 10-30 of the same brand make it quiet again ? we have no idea, but in that particular engine, from then on until my brother sold it, 10-30 was what we used, and no noise was heard from it again !
so

In the mid-1990s I got interested in how camshaft profiles affected “dynamic compression ratio.”
This led me to “Rhoads Hydraulic Lifter” design and eventually led me to read the US Patents.

I never before realized how complex hydraulic lifters really were.

Lube oil really affects hydraulic lifters, and hydraulic lifters affect “real world” camshaft affects, especially when hydraulic are worn and old, and camshafts slightly affect fuel economy and torque.

It is all way more complex than I first imagined.

New engine “break in” is not what I assumed it was.