Rattle can or automotive paint for engine??

Rebuilding the engine in the roadrunner. In the past I've always used rattle cans to paint engines (duplicolor, Mopar Performance, etc) but I've never been too impressed with how the paint looks like after a year or two, seems like it lifts with coolant leaks or stains easily with oil. I was considered painting this engine with enamel in the HPLV gun in the hopes that the paint would be more durable and look better longer. Am I wasting time and money or would I be much happier going this route?

A few professional painters I know say spray gun - has more solids in it than a rattle can does.

For decades I've used pretty much every brand of rattle can paint then a few years ago a friend suggested I try some good single stage paint out of my gun. Ever since I've been using Nason Full Thame over self etching primer and been really happy. Sure holds up so much better and last for years. I drive my cars year around. Does cost a lot more. Around 80.00 per pint plus hardener and reducer and that is enough to do 2 motors. Big down size is that they are probably more shinny that the original paint jobs,

Some more motors.

Yes, those are shinier than the factories did them, but better looking.
An argument can be made that nowadays, people expect them shiny, and I get that.
I've usually painted engines with cans, and over a thoroughly clean & primed engine, they've held up fine for 30+ years.
They all look recently done, but I keep them clean.
I've also used the Bill Hirsch stuff, and it was excellent.
So, whatever you like and are equipped to do, I guess.
It's one of those debates that will go on forever.

Those do look nice!!!

I wonder if they could add some "flatner" to the paint to make it look less shiny??

I also paint all the bolt on parts with Nason gloss black. The way I see it in 10 years and 60,000 miles they will be just right.

I don't know.

I would think you could add a flattening agent, or a satin/matte clear.
But I don't know if either could have a problem with heat or staining.
I'd be curious what the top restorers - Mike Mancini for example - are doing.

I would think for a correct restoration you'd want to use an enamel not a urethan like I do. I build really nice drivers not correct cars so the shinny motors work for me and my customer.

My cars are drivers as well and I don't mind the shiny paint on the engine. I'll look into using enamel and see what folks suggest.

Thanks again for sharing your experience/pictures.

Throwing some gas on the fire here....

Graveyard Cars seems to spray their engines with a paint gun.
I have always used spray cans but have had mixed results. I've had paint lift and peel on some engines and stick like glue on others. The Mopar Performance paint used to be good but at some point, they must have changed something because the cans wouldn't spray, the color would come out uneven and I'd end up having to use a different brand.
I am going to try a gun next time I rebuild an engine.

Absolutely yes you can.

I paint engines with Urethane paint (paint gun obviously) and add flattening agent to the mix if I want it more dull/satiny like the factory look.

How much flattening agent you add affects how shiny or dull the paint ends up when it's dry.

On something that isn't stock/restored I prefer a shiny paint on the engine.

Urethane holds up far better than rattle can.

Self etching or epoxy primer than paint with urethane is what I do.

I’ve been larryLOVEit the Duplicolor paint fer years ....

Well at least my grandpa has !!

They used a gun at the factory.

i myself prefer using a spray gun.
regular enamel paints can successfully be sprayed without using catalyst and only using reducer. it won't be as durable as with catalyst but more durable than a bomb. without catalyst will leave a duller finish. i THINK the factory sprayed this way.

if you don't have access to full air pressure to use a spray gun.
you should look into PREVAIL sprayer. they are basically a make your own spray bomb setup. i have used the hundreds of times in small areas. actually they seem to spray much better than a spray bome.
most quality hardware stores sell them. i know the home depot and ace hardware store near me sell them.

prevail sprayer

I used to use Plastikote paint back in the 70’s and 80’s when they were out of Medina Ohio.
Was the best paint available, better than Direct Connection.

The DC orange ran when hit with fuel but Plastikote didn’t budge.
One coat usually covered, two coats was perfect.

Just found out they were bought by Duplicolor.

Any chance of getting the paint codes you use or is it one of those "if you look it's obvious" kind of thing.

'Single stage urethane with a hardener is the gold standard paint for this type of application. Engine must be primed for this to work well. Acrylic enamel or a ceramic engine paint both with hardener are also good choices. Regular old spray bomb enamel type paint is the bottom of the barrel. It is like potted meat v/s a steak. If you are hungry enough you will eat either, but there is no comparison to the good stuff.

As far as a correct restoration goes, I have no idea as I don't care about that in the least.

PS I have also read about people using equipment paint with success but have not done so myself. I would only use one designed to mix with a catalyst or hardener of some sort if I chose to try it.

For my Street Hemi Orange I had them mix up EV2 without the yellow metallic.

That's exactly what I use in urethane, with or without flattening agent added.

Great information. Thanks for sharing!!!

All paint no spray cans or guns..stays nice for years and it self levels
https://youtu.be/NI5rdp0R15o

Thanks! If you have any more, keep them coming.

MP Turquoise on the 440....

PPG 3116 enamel without catalyst on the low deck/raw aluminum heads

PPG Shopline 3116 Single stage catalyzed Urethane on the Hemi

3116 was recommended by Steve Dulcich circa 2001, later on I found out it was the
exact formula MP used on crate engines for many years.

TBH I preferred the coverage of the old enamel the PPG store doesn't want to sell anymore, and
will give the Hemi one more coat + will probably clear coat it with some kind of high solids
clear.

When I run out of 3116 I'm probably going to generic/industrial Omaha Orange as used on various municipal
truck applications and so on as it's more easily obtained in enamel and will use a catalyst.....

They all have their ups and downs, it seems I can more easily get a thin, slightly dull OE looking finish with
spray cans than I can with a gun and higher quality paint, but the higher quality paint lasts longer and looks
much better.

I really like and have been using Duplicolor Engine Primer Grey (DE1612) and Cummins Engine Beige (DE1638) - used it on my 440 to gain another 10 lbs of torque







- Sam

i've done the buy paint and spray it on and rattle can. pro's and cons either way you go. last two i did was plastikote rattle can and it did what i wanted. i'm not sure there's any paint out there that will 100% protect against hot anti-freeze or hot alcohol gas. best bet is to be pro-active with leaks.

I painted my engine first with Mopar Performance paint and got some gasoline on the intake. The paint started to blister. So I stripped the engine again. Sprayed a 6" panel with the Mopar paint and took it to a PPG paint store, They took a digital picture of the panel and mixed the color with their industrial paint mixture. Reduced and hardened required. The color was perfect to the panel, and nothing effects the color; gas or oil. Got it all for $90 with enough for two engines.

All mine are single stage urethane out of a gun. Have some that have been painted nearly 20 years and look new. Just did my race car block and heads. The small block was done in 2003
Doug

All my engines are painted with Dupicolor Hemi orange engine enamel. I hit them with light coat of self etching primer first. Then spray orange. No complaints. My Charger 440 Six Pack engine has been in since 2007 and the Challenger Hemi since since 2017. Roached Runner 383 engine is no installed also.

Great subject and Happy Christmas.

I only see one engine paint available for us Limeys!
VHT enamel.

I always put it straight to metal, and a lifetime later I find they have hi temp primer...

It also says “cure at 200 degrees for twenty minutes or run engine”

That would explain why it never lasted lol...

I’ve always used duplicolor engine enamel.

Where did you get that B&M super charger?

I found that 8 years ago on Craig’s list NOS complete, B&M cast the manifold. I will be going with a 671 in the summer time. This little 162 runs out of steam on my 408.

Bill hirsch paint is amazing. gas resistant I've sprayed it or used a foam brush on cast iron.

You don’t need high temp paint. Normal car urethane will standup to anything. You can even bondo up parts to make them smooth. Notice the missing Indy logo on the head and valve cover. No pits in the intake. Yup it’s bondo, 9 years and counting.
Doug