Engine R&R, do I need this?

Going to be removing my 340 and replacing with Gen3 5.7.
I have the HF 2-ton lift, do I need this leveler?
Or just a set of chain?

They're handy !! For the price I'd go for it !!

X2
Whether you're pulling or installing an engine transmission combination, or even just the engine (from the top), those levelers are money. I'm not saying it can't be done without one, but the job will certainly be easier.

I've only used one once in countless engine pulls and installs and that was a long time ago. An issue that may come up is that sometimes you need the "hook" of the engine hoist to be near the engine to get enough height to clear the radiator support. The load lever takes up a lot of this potential lift height. So I guess it just depends on your situation.

If I need the engine to tilt a bit, I just change the lifting point on the chain or carb plate hook location.

Whatever you decide, safety first!

I had the same question, with an aluminum head big block, front and rear motor plate, giant engine setback, tall and wide fabbed aluminum valve covers, and a firewall less than 1/4" away from the back of the heads. Solution was to borrow a friends old cast iron intake,add a Summit carb pad lift plate with three hoop choices atop,tape off intake ports, use an old set or cheap set of gaskets, and temporarily bolt on to the motor. No chains or brackets to mess up valve covers or any aluminum bolt holesor surfaces. Also had no firewall/chain clearance either. Didn't want to wreck a heavily ported aluminum intake either. It worked absolutely great. It spread the load out evenly and securely on the intake manifold surface of the aluminum heads. Bill

Just sold mine. Never used it. Use a carb flange lifting plate

Do not need.

It is your choice, both ways work

Yup ... just drop the engine back down into place, change the hook point, try again OR just turn the crank on that gizmo !!!

Actually, there are a bunch of things that will dictate whether or not you can use one of these.

No carb flange on the 5.7, maybe there's a spot on the heads?
I assumed I'd bolt the chains to the intake manifold on the 340.
Wouldn't mind spending the $35 for the leveler if it will work for both engines.

I have one and never used it. It took up too much height and didn't work for me. If I had an A-Frame hoist with more vertical space it may be fine.

On my engines I usually just hook a chain to the alternator bolt holes in the heads.

Easer to drop it out the bottom

Not always.

Chain or carb plate here. A buddy built me one and i sol dit at a swap meet (SHHH!)

You loose about 12" of lift height with one. If you can lift that extra foot, they are pretty nice, but very seldom could I clear the radiator support with one of those in place. Hundreds of motor swaps, that thing worked on less the 5 of them. Maybe its under a shelve someplace, but more likely, I got rid of it. Gene

It's better to have the tool in your tool box and choose to use it or not than not have it.
What guy has too many tools in his box anyways?
Copper

I did away with engine hoists and levelers.

Too much Rube Goldberg there.

So I built me a gantry crane. Works like a champ. I have a lifting eye I screw in place of the center head bolt.

Yep, that's why I don't like them.

Same thing here. Good idea, but seems to get in the way in reality. In particular on a truck where the cowl hangs over the motor. Just no room.

For lifting new hemis I took a piece of angle iron, drilled a hole on each end to bolt it flat to a head via the intake bolt hole and drilled a bigger hole in the center for the tip of my cherry picker hook, very low clearance set up so I don't have to pull hoods or have the cowl in the way, done a bunch this way with no problems so far.

Amateurs LOL

I like what you did sniper but my wood working skills are almost as bad as my cooking. Both are dangerous.

Any pics of that? Newbie looking for all the tips I can get.