Broke an axle.... again....

So years at the track I broke a stock axle, no big surprise it was 40 years old or so... Replaced the axles with Strange axles and today I snapped another one, on the street. Was fooling around and did a half hearted burnout, just enough that it hooked hard and bang... I haven't torn it apart yet but I suspect I twisted it off at the spline as before.

So now I'm torn, do I buy axles again or just bite the bullet and finally put a Dana in this thing.

If I was still employed it'd be a no brainer however I'm on disability since cancer surgery, chemo etc...

Needless to say money is an issue. Considering Dr Diff for a new Dana, anyone have an idea, what the dimensions I need to give him are for a 67 B body, stock width, I do have Caltracs and Mono leafs on the car.

My 8 3/4 has a Detroit Locker but I don't remember how many splines it is I also have no idea how I got the broken stub out before, I know I didn't pull the pig...

This stuff was a lot easier before but these days just cutting my grass kicks my butt so I'm trying to come up with a plan I can actually manage on my own...

Just looking for suggestions, I really just want to replace axles but I also need it to hold up to my stupidity...

67 Coronet
400 Block 500" stroker, 10.8 compression
Bulldog heads (yes I'm the guy who bought the only set they sold. Yes I'm know they sold more, at least 1 more set I'm sure... Lol)
Cam is ~630 lift, .263 duration
MP M1 single plane
CRT trans
Dynamic converter ~ 3800 stall
Det Locker 4.30 gears

Thanks!

How many years did the replacement last? If you get 10 years out a set of shafts is it worth the swap?

Do they make bigger splines for 8.75 axles?

Those 30 spline axles can only take so much. Usually a 3200 pound car will start twisting axles when you get into the 10 second bracket. We replaced our 8 3/4 with a Dana 60 (35 spline) and never had a failure since, car now runs 10.0's at 133 mph.

Pretty sure 35 spline axles are the same weather they are for an 8 3/4 or a dana. So no upgrade there.

I would just replace what you had maybe they offer a better version now (better material). It surprises me a good after market axle would fail with a half hearted burn out on the street.

The 3800 stall is the issue. Lowering the stall would help. If that's not an option the dana would be the way to go. A cheaper option would be to get a 9 1/4 axle.

What tires are on it? If you have some sticky ones on it and it's just a street toy what about more of a street tire. Letting the tires spin is a bit easier on diffs and axles. My B'cuda with a 470" stroker, 4 spd and 8.25(3:73) has held up well.....it don't hook worth a damn but the diff/axles live fine. I don't race it so I don't care if it hooks. Does hella nice burnouts though

Just reading the history, this is what I think:

1) axle #1 - old age gets everything
2) axle #2 - stuff happens

I'd put another axle in what you have and motor on, especially with the financial situation you say you are in. Sometimes I think there is a tendency (and I'm not immune to it either) to start replacing major components after a failure when the actual problem was a minor component failure.

Call Strange, they may warranty it. If they say "No" all you're out is a phone call

I bought and used a set of Strange Engr. 35 spline axles and spool in my old pump gas Duster, I also added a steel cap on the driver side for increase strength and proactive to prevent breaking the stock left cap.
I had ladder bars with coil overs and that car went low tens a lot before it twisted up that 8 3/4 housing bad enough to rip the welds off of the ladder bar mounts on the passenger side on the starting line
I bought a junkyard Dana 60 out of a pickup and had it cut down and reuse those Strange 35 spline axles with a new dana 60 3 seris 35 spline spool, no more problems after that
On your deal if you do decide to swap to the 35 spline parts make sure and buy a steel cap and have it installed on the driver side

Some here have said that competition axles don't do well on the street.

Many years ago I called Strange to order some a-body axles, and the lady said they don't recommend their axles for street use, or anything involving lots of cornering with a spool.

No manufacturer will warranty a 30 spline axle against breakage.

Your only other alternative is a 35 spline spool and axles.

Replace the axle, I'd consider going back to a stock one if the car is mainly used on the street. Then back off the cal-tracks a bit, let spin on the street. You will have more fun, and the car will like it better, just watch the tach more closely. If your going back to the strip, tighten up the cal-tracks to hook again.

I know and I'd never ask about a warranty on 12 year old axles anyway...

Will be contacting you soon...

I'm about 30 north of the city, so not that far. If you need another pair of hands putting a 60 in drop me a PM. Could burn a Saturday or Sunday.

Thank you for the offer!

So I think I'm going to roll the dice on axles again. The Strange shafts I broke were a "Street axle" they sold years ago and I see they have "Alloy induction hardened shafts" that they recommend for street use now.

When I replaced my axles 12 years ago, the new Strange axles were slightly too long and had to cut about 1/2" off the spline.

The housing is all original to the car so I ordered axle lengths to fit a stock housing but if I remember correctly the Locker has a spacer / button in the center between the axle shafts. The original stock axles worked fine with the Locker though,

So is it the "Green Bearings" that caused the issue or did I just get unlucky and get the wrong length shafts the first time?

If "Green Bearings" caused the issue I may go back to tapered bearings.

I'd like to not have to cut the new axles again after I order them...

First comment, you got 12 years out of the Strange axles? Wow, what did you expect to get? I think that is pretty good. Second comment, as to spacers, I thought that when you retrofitted with the 'Green' bearings you removed all of the centering pins as they are no longer needed AND they may preload the bearings. Finally, as an example, with the AMC 20 differential it is common to have to shorten the available axles, Mr. Chop Saw is our friend here. Cutting something off the end is not unheard of.

I'd recommend a set of Moser axles. I've seen a bunch of broken Strange axles.

Not sure about that spacer, was never told it wasn't needed...

I have 750 passes on my Strange 35 spline axles. Previous car had 1500+ on Strange 35 spline. Current car weighs 3350. 60fts are in the 1.2x range.
Doug

Mine are 30 spline and the car lives on the street, went to the track twice since I broke the first axle, probably not taking it again.

These axles have ~ 2000 street miles on them. Blew up the 470 about 10 years ago, put a sick 383 in after that and the 500" motor went in a month or two before the cancer diagnosis (2019) So 2019 and last year the car maybe had 50 miles total.

Finally got it running right late this spring, so not much time on it this year either...

I don't see 30 spline axles available on DR Diff site so looking at Dutchman.

Anyone had good or bad experiences with them?

I tried to find out where I had read that and can't drag it up. So I have to file what I said under hearsay or BS.

The centered floating spacers in all the early posi in both 8 3/4 and Dana 60 were used to help set the endplay up on the Timken tapered roller axle bearings
You don't need to worry about setting the end play correctly with ball bearings on the axles like the Green bearings are as long as it has some end play your good in my book ,
Been there done that

I'm also a Dutchman axle dealer. They now offer a 4130 cr-mo steet/strip axle.

Thanks, never really thought about what that was there for but it makes perfect sense.

Now can I get it out without pulling the center section? I'm guessing not...

And if I do have to pull it I think I'm going to re-gear it, 4:30's are fun but I'm thinking 3:55 or 3:73...