Radiator feedback , Wizard /Speedcooling(ECP)

Has anyone used the Wizard or ECP/Speedcooling radiators ?

ECP - https://speedcooling.com/26-Big-Block-Mopar-Radiator.html

Wizard - https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator/

What has been your experience ? Quality , lifespan , actual cooling ?

I run a 505 BB , 650ish HP 11.0:1 . In a 1968 Plymouth Satellite . Currently using a AFCO radiator , temp sits 195/200 . This worked fine on my factory block 440 and 505 but the World block definately runs warmer . I run factory shroud , 5 blade clutch fan plus a manual control 14"elec pusher fan .
It looks like the Wizard/ECP has about 448 square inches surface are compared to about 427 sq" with the AFCO . So not sure if there is enough gained for the cost , i do have to import the radiator and pay in Aussie pesos .

Thanks in advance ,

Tex

there is a school of thought that says 1 square inch of radiator core for each cubic inch of displacement, minimum.

Stock 68 383 radiator core is at 455 sq in.

You might want to double check your math, I get 487 sq in for the ECP unit, wizard doesn't appear to give the core dimensions.

No idea how the row count might affect the equation though.

Here's a link to some interesting info

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/r...fiecincy-aluminium-vs-brass-tech.250185/

No help on what you are looking at. On my 528 Hemi with a/c I have a Cold Case with dual pullers and I was very happy on how cool it runs.

I have the ECP in my 68 Charger 512 cid, COLD A/C , car runs 185ish all day long with the A/C on, down here in HOT Southeast Texas.

Does it maintain at 195 -200 under all conditions? What's the ambient temp. Does it run warmer at slow speeds. Have you verified the temperature with a thermocouple & digital meter ?
IMO There are a ton of variables involved and more information is needed before jumping on the radiator replacement.

thanks guys .
maybe my maths is not so good .
I expect Wizard is same size as stock , same as ECP . but hey ive been wrong before . They list it as factory size replacement for a 26".
Temp goes up and sits 195/200 ish even on freeway . Whether warm or cool , on cold days it is a little cooler .
I have checked with a temperature gun and it shows the heat like gauge , yes it does show a ok drop across core .
This is the 2nd AFCO i have fitted . First was in for 10 + (?) years . At start of year fan grabbed it at the strip . So i bought same unit plus a NOS ( same part number ) Mopar 5 blade fan . I do have the Jaguar short fan hub . It is 3/4"off core half in half out of shroud , shroud sealed to radiator .
CSK , i know that Texas weather , not dissimilar to here in Sydney .

Tex

PS : i have not used a tsat for at 12 years . As i race a lot and dont feel its advisable to be high rpm with a shut tstat if you cant get up to temp quick .

the Jag clutch would not keep my car running cool,it is not HD this is what worked great
Flex-a-lite 101571 - Flex-A-Lite 7-Blade Fans

Fan, Flex-Type, 7-Blade, Clockwise, 18.25 in. Diameter, Stainless Steel Blades/Steel Hub, Universal, Each, very well made high rpm blade, I now have electric fans & they work great also,

CSK ,
i did have the mopar clutch hub , came with 5 blade as performance kit , but i cannot fit it now . I had maybe 3/8"clearance before . With new radiator and new side mounts it is barely 1/4"now .
Funny i have a 17"flex a lite fan i tried , but not real keen on that on the strip .
Its just one of those things , is it bad ? not totally . Could it be better , yes . Ideally i would like 190 freeway max
I could try the VP Stay Frosty complete coolant mix . I know some guys having good results with that .
I do quite a few highway miles and daily drive it .

thanks

Tex

I use this one auto city classic radiator .

Looks similar to the Ecp. But looks closer to a stock radiator. I use it with a shroud, 6 blade 18 inch flex fan, high volume mancini water pump, 160 Milodon stat and vacuum advance never see more than 180ish- maybe 185 idling or cruising. Without vacuum advance it got up to 200-210 at 70 mph 3500rpm.

Thanks for the link , at least they are happy to ship .
I never really had issues till using the World block .

Tex

have you thought about maybe going to a good dual puller electric fan setup ?
your pusher fan may be blocking some airflow.
just a thought from an old forgetful guy.

Does the stock shroud fit?

yes i have tried that , used an Aust Ford Falcon unit .
Never had an issue till the World block , maybe a little worse again since having to fit the Jaf fan hub


Tex

The 2947 Hayden is a short HD fan clutch for a mopar

thanks
I have the 2765

Tex

I have a 26" Wizard and am very happy with it. Never overheats and the fit and finish is better than most of the aluminum radiators out there.

thanks

Tex

I have a Wizard all be it a 22" version with shroud for a stock 7 blade fan.

I had to send the rad back twice for repairs. The billet filler neck was cracked on the inside where the vented cap seals when I got it, send it back they welded a new neck on put it in filled it and it leaked like a sieve. Sent it back again and its been good since then.

As far as cooling I think I should have just stuffed a 26" rad it as it will still push to 205 when on a hot day ins top and go traffic.

I have a newer mopar performance shroud that bolted right to it. Not sure how close to stock my shroud is though.

As a side comment,
I had a vehicle years back that was all new mechanically, the motor was brand new (not rebuilt) as was the 4 row (staggered) copper brass radiator, factory pulleys, shroud, etc. It was basically all stock with no modifications. It ran 195 - 200 no matter what the speed was, the ambient temp, idling for extended periods, A/C on or off, didn't matter nor did anything i tried. After about 2 years it was totaled as it was just an old car of no real value at the time (would've been fixed today).
gauge accuracy was verified with a laboratory grade meter and thermocouple placed right next to the thermostat. the hottest it ever registered was 205 on a 100 degree day idling in traffic for 1/2 hour or so with the A/C on.
I just wanted to throw that out there for thought.

thanks guys for the extra feedback .
Im thinking i might try the HD fan hub first - cheapest .


Tex

ok
just thought a little more follow up would be nice .
Thank you CSK . I did buy the HD hayden clutch . It seems to be running about 20F cooler . Now i now it is winter here not that it gets too cold . . But its a hell of an improvement so far , as it was engine was getting quite warm in the last month or so as winter set in .. Will see how it goes on longer runs and as air temp goes up .
It would appear that with the Mopar Performance clutch and fan being 1/2"off core , factory shroud , it was ok . Now fan is 1 1/2"or so from core , factory shroud , that Jag hub would not engage/pull enough air through .


Tex

Thanks for the update , I was wondering if you made any headway with it, I also have a little trick to help keep them cool at highway speeds, let me know & I will post some pictures & explanation

CSK ,
we are kind of locked down so may be a couple weeks till i get a long freeway run . I never had issues prior till rad/fan incident so i expect it to , hope , it will also be ok then . I will let you know how it goes . Thanks again

Tex

I just installed an ACC 22" radiator in my 74 Barracuda w/440. Looks close to stock, I had to open up the mounting slots a little bit but nothing crazy. I used a reproduction shroud and did have to open up the notches quite a bit on that. Fitment on the shroud isn't great, there is a decent gap (maybe an 1/8th?) top and bottom. It's still better than no shroud and the contour of the tanks does match the contours on the shroud. A thin strip of adhesive foam or rubber weatherstripping would probably seal things up nicely. Fan is a 5 blade from a MP viscous kit with a matching clutch. I can (barely) fit a hand in between the bottom the clutch and the face of the rad, and the depth of the blades are set about perfect in relation to the shroud. So far, so good - seems to cool just fine and it's been in the 80s here the past couple days. For the money, I'm happy with it.

I have the Speedcooling ECP 26" unit in my '70 Charger. A shroud fits, not sure if it was stock for the application. I had a factory shroud in my stash that fit so I used it. It bolted up like stock.

I have a 22" core opening in my Challenger (a T/A clone I did back in 1978... was a 318 car, no A/C), and have used a couple different radiators all at 22" (typical stock designs).

Just recently, with a new 410 SB, I purchased a new U.S. Radiator (aka Cool Craft). Special ordered their "Tripple Flow" aluminum rad, having two 1" cores. I favored this brand because the tanks appear near to stock. The brackets needed slight slots opened up, no big deal, to mount to my factory original core support. The 22" factory shroud fit about 95% OK. I did notice that the rad core sits closer towards the engine, as opposed to the core support.. in other words, its not centered... having some extra space between the core support and the rad/tank.... I've decided to live with that... it could've been closer to the core support... I plan to install a top cover/shroud between the upper tank-to-core support. I painted the rad with Eastwood RAD black (after first using a primer).... looks very good overall.

While idling, driving on roads/hwy, etc.... no problems, stays cool (using a 180 thermst). I have an aluminum Chrysler 7-blade clutch fan (light weight..!) and I installed the Hayden short shaft Muscle Car clutch unit... that unit is a hassle to fit the bolts to the water pump... just barely any room.. and the face of the clutch unit sits too far away.. about 2" from the rad. The blades of the fan are inside the shroud only about 1/3 of the way... perhaps too short. But, at normal driving, its cool. (I may re-install my 6-blade large/wide aluminum flex fan w/spacer to see any difference, but... the recent racing rules have banned flex-fans... for safety reasons... I've never had any problem with it before).

I've just ordered a new Hayden HD clutch #2747... to bring the fan closer to the rad.. see if that will make any difference.

My recent dilemma is that when I do HPDE (road course lapping sessions for typical 20-minute sessions typical rpms 4000-5700), the temp goes up... way up (especially on hot 80-90+ days) ... so that I should turn the heater motor on full blast to reduce the temp a little (windows open!... hot inside car ... but not really that bad). I do have a large full width automatic trans cooler in front (fits perfect.. from a Dodge Cummins diesel PU)... all vanes are cleared and clean. I'm planning to make and install an upper cover between the grille-to-core support so to keep more air towards the rad (I see this setup on lots of road race cars, including the Posey T/A and similar vintage TransAm cars). I may also make some funneling walls behind the grille-to-rad to funnel more air directly to it.

I've considered installing a 26" wide rad... US Radiator has a setup to adapt to the 22" core opening... I just wish the engine would stay cooler during aggressive lapping HPDE sessions.... on hot days.

Maybe a cross-flow rad would be better.. even if it is wider ~26" vs 22".

just my opinion, i would opt for 26" cross flow radiator and a good factory dual electric fan setup.
your mileage will vary.