TA steering box output shaft key location

Hello,

Anyone have a pic of a TA steering box output shaft key location? Had an issue with my box being centered when installed. After the front end alignment the tire would hit the frame turning in one direction but not the other. Need to figure out if my output shaft has the correct key location. A guy who rebuilds them had multiple with different key locations and I'm wondering when I had it rebuilt 20 years ago they put the wrong on in mine?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On the T/A box, the "Fast Ratio" factory pitman arm has a keyway ... so.. it'll only fit on the box correctly with the splines. However, I've heard the aftermarket fast-ratio pitman arms do not have that keyway which requires you to determine the correct location... they should eventually fix that matter once and for all.

The hitting of the tires against the frame rail (typically at the rear of the tire) is common for lots of Mopars... not that bad of an issue.... pending the rims and tire sizes that are being used.

You should also be installing a longer C-Body Idler arm... (~1970 Fury, etc)... so to correct the turning radius each side (the factory never did it correctly... an oversight that allowed one side to turn more than the other side when using the T/A box with its longer "fast ratio" pitman arm. (NOTE: ALL aftermarket "fast ratio" IDLER ARMS, as advertised by the sellers, etc, are simply ~1970 C-Body idler arms... always has been, always will be... never "created" or designed by anyone.)

When I put the car together 20 years ago I centered the tie rod ends (using the old one as reference) to have the same threads showing. When driving it there it drove straight but my steering wheel was at the 9 O'clock location. They adjusted the tie rods as far as they could but still couldn't get it fully straight. By doing so that's what is causing the tire hitting the rail. I talked to the local guy who rebuilds Mopar boxes asking if the input shaft could be clocked by a tooth to fix it. He told be no and this is why I was wondering if there was a special output shaft (being there is only 3 teeth on that shaft) for the TA box that has a different/ special alignment location because of the fast ratio. I've been wonder also if the guy 20 years ago who rebuilt it in the first case put the wrong output shaft in it?

When I bought this car I bought in a box. Bare metal roller all parts in boxes. When restoring it I found on just about every part he gave me where B-body parts. Looking at them they looked correct but at that time I was unfamiliar with the differences with the part numbers etc and the importance of them. I was scratching my head for 3 years being I only had the weekend to work on it because it was located 4 hours from me. Also being the first car I restored. This box is the last item that needs to be corrected. I will be at Carlisle and plan on trying to figure out and will have the access to get what parts I need.

I'll look into the C-body idler as well.

Just a thought .
When i had my b body ps box redone here in Aust they replaced the input shaft with an Aust a body input . Its master spline was nearly 90 degrees out . I simply removed the master spline in the steering wheel hub to recentre it . No problems .
I have my own workshop and do my own alignments . Pitman and idler should be straight ahead , set / adjust everything from there .

Tex