68 C body front disc conversion kit?

So my son just got a very nice original 68 Fury3 with manual drum brakes. Who makes a nice inexpensive front disc conversion for C body? Does not need to go to power, would just like to ditch the front drums and retain same spindles if possible. No high end willwood race type stuff, just a 318 Saturday night cruiser.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=255

this is the only conversion I am aware of.
it would honestly be better if you could find the 70-2 or the 73 spindles.
vans use the rotors for the 73. so they are still availble new.
dr diff I think makes the adapter bearings for the 70-2 spindles to use the 73 rotors.

I have a couple sets of the '73 disc knuckles sitting on the shelf. I took them to a swap meet last year but they didn't sell.

There's the solution right there. All the parts to complete the job are at your favorite parts store.

Those spindles will fit your drum spindle ball joints.

Kevin

F M or J body spindles and rotors/calipers (maybe find 5th Ave in wrecker ??) . . . all will fit and work . . use newer AL lightweight master cylinder . . . away you go . . . least cost option . . . or check with Dr. Diff for one of his kits . . .

The F M J parts will fit A B E bodies but not C.

Check the Mopar Action disc conversion article.

Definitely will buy a set if you’re willing to ship, I coincidentally also have a ‘68 Fury III and want to ditch the front drums. My car has a hot 440 in it and the brakes are marginal at best. Thanks!

The MA article has lots of issues in it.

Or go here, get your refreshments ready, it's a long read. Somewhere in there somebody called out the bearings and other part numbers you need:

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/fuselage-drums-to-disc-brake-conversion.23988/

or here:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1107-c-body-disc-brake-conversion/#photo-01

Short story, buy the spindles, pick up the rest at the store. The hard part, you need the specific PDB to get adequate boost. Some guys claim to have gotten good results with the drum booster. Factories are CHEAP, they don't make changes lightly, go with the right parts. No matter how expensive you go, it's still cheaper than an accident, probably cheaper than your deductible.

No issues . . . speaking real world experience . . . . and at time, these were dime a dozen at wrecking yards . . . cheap replacement parts (calipers/pads, etc), and you go with the bigger caliper bracket from "B" body, you can then go with bigger rotor . . . honestly, no issue in over 10k miles ! . . . and my car is non power brake car, no issue with a "tough pedal", very responsive and easy to use.

I would talk to Dr. Diff and check his website . . .

Found it! Post #3 has the part numbers. One of the other members is really happy with his SSBC conversion, allowed him to keep his 14" wheels.

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/73-disc-brake-conversion-to-begin-soon.23330/

Yes and I have real world experience with the taller spindle he claims is an issue, it is not, has been debunked many times yet no retraction.

What Cbody do you have an F,M,J spindle installed on?

Kevin

What C body is in the MA article?

For the record, I put them on a 64 300.

That's why they fit then. A 64 is not a Cbody.

Cbody didn't start until 1965.

Any tricks required to use the FMJ on that 64?

Kevin

Call it what you want, it was a Cbody for all intents and purposes, had to trim the tie rod length to get the toe in spec, other than that nothing serious. Spindle heights were the same.

i as well have real world experience using the FMJ spindle, probably close to 40 vehicles, and i did a 64 300 in the mix. as sniper said, the only issue [if you could really call it that] was trimming the tierod length.
i remember when i joined here, there was a big flap about using the tall spindle and "over extending" the upper ball joint. i proved to myself that was an impossibility by moving the suspension through it's entire range. [without the torsion bar installed and the bump stops removed]

And IIRC, Ebooger claimed it was a possibility, he didn't guarantee it would cause problems.

And a 64 really isn't a C body, not many chassis parts swap.

As for trimming tie rods to get toe in spec, you wouldn't have to do that on an A B E body because the steering arm is part of the ball joint, not the spindle.

.

To quote Allpar "The C body dates from 1960, but was not officially named until 1965." https://www.allpar.com/threads/rear-wheel-drive-mopar-bodies-1957-2017.228756/#post-1085222854

On both the FMJ and the 64 C body the steering arm bolts to the spindle and the LBJ stud mounts to the steering arms. Right now I cannot remember which source I used for the steering arms after the conversion. I think the FMJ donor's. I did the swap back in 94 so the memory is dim these days.

Question, are lower balljoints available anymore? About 20 yrs ago when I replaced them on a '71 Chrysler I had, I was told they weren't being made anymore and I had gotten the last pair available (in this area at least).

Just curious.

Aside from rareparts:

https://shop.rareparts.com/RP10167-...FT%20LOWER&veh=1971-CHRYSLER-NEWPORT

Finding NOS is about it. I know as mopar ran out in the 1980's they had more built, I think the quality of those suffered so won't buy them. TRW or Moog if I can find them.

PST still seems to carry them as part of their rebuild kit.
https://p-s-t.com/i-23162823-original-performance-super-front-end-kit.html#!year%3D1971%7C%7Cmake%3DPLYMOUTH%7C%7Cmodel%3DFURY%20III

at the time the whole kit from them was cheaper than 2 ball joints from rare parts. might still be.

They were hard to get 10-15 years ago but seem to be readily available these days. I don't know if you'll get any at Napa down the street but I bought a pair on ebay from a suspension supplier a couple of years ago for a reasonable $.