Best Disc brake conversion for B-BODY

Street type parts, what is the preferred kit to put on front and rear ? Best fit, working Etc.

factory F, R, J body stuff, or is this stuff not available in any yards around you dad ?
as to aftermarket stuff, i'm leery of most kits using the common GM 1 & 1 1/8" vette master cylinders.
with that said, the kits using GM parts have the advantage of replacement items, if needed, are available at most grocery stores and craft shops.
that is, if the kit tells you what the individual parts origins are, or you can figure them out from any casting numbers [calipers] or rotor dimensions.
this probably isn't much help, but bump to the top in case someone can share their "kit" experience.

Most people will poo-poo it because of cost but I really like the Wilwood Pro Street kits.

They can use the drum spindle, save a ton of weight and include a vented rotor.

Very happy with the setup on my car.

I i have WW's on my 67 and Valiant .. I like them for those applications , not so sure about street driving a long distance ? I am looking at the SSBC ones

Check with Doctor Diff?

I'm still using the 11.75" version of this:
https://www.moparaction.com/2016/03/16/disc-main/
But with the optional slider type calipers.

it's really heavyweight, but was made to stop a heavyweight vehicle over and over.

I don't think anyone sells an actual kit with the late b body 11.75 rotor.
The kits mostly seem to default to F/M rotors which are also fine, just a little smaller.

11.75" rotors are available yet at part shops. Stock replacement and drilled and slotted. You can check them out at Rockauto, searching for mid to lates 70s Monacos ( for example )

DrDiff sell the kit done anyway, with those stock parts.

The 11.75 kit from Doctor Diff is the best choice for a street car: https://www.doctordiff.com/front-disc-brake-kit-for-11.75-on-disc-knuckles.html

Doctor Diff has repop knuckles as well as 11.75 brackets for a turn key kit. He also made a slick modification to the calipers so they can be mounted front or rear and he has the correct hoses.

Like everything it seems /.. out of stock

I'm using the 73 stock type brakes from a Charger in the boneyard and Wilwood Dyna-lites on the rear with a 1" late model master cylinder and I have a good reliable pedal feel with this setup. I have about $800 in the whole deal.

Gus

I'm all for the mopar action big rotor swap. Did it 30 years ago on my roadrunner. Really good bang for the buck and you won't likely do much better without spending a lot more. I still have 10 inch rear drums.

I did play with wheel cylinder size and an adjustable p valve.

IMHO, rear disc is more a race thing but, I am kicking around the Jeep rear disc swap also from Mopar Action.

Ive used a late 70s Volare disc brakes, as well as 2 sets from Right Stuff.

Never felt the need to convert the rears to disc or go big brake front, which requires 15 inch wheels only

The F/M/J conversion is great . . . look in the yards for mid80's Chrysler 5th Ave. . .

have stosk disc on 68 dart, @ 139 mph it stops fine. Not a fan of wilwood, don't understand how a smaller pad will stop car better. but alot of folks seem to like them.

Search for Raybestos PN 7034R or Bendix PRT1146 or Wagner BD60474 at Rockauto. All 11.75" rotors. Standard ones not the drilled/slotted thought.

22763009R and L for Centric Drilled/Slotted rotors, BUT Rockauto just have the R at this moment

I went old school and I know, what a surprise. Factory disk brake setup from a 75 Imp is just about a B body bolt in. E-brake cables took creativity but that's it. Calipers and pads swap with B body fronts. Have another one stashed.

Just ordered Dr Diff's stage 1 10.95" kit today for my 72 RR looking forward to getting it here and installed.

I bought a SSBC kit for my 1966 Dodge Deluxe 440/ 471 CC with the NP833 O.D. tranny but I haven't driven it yet.
It bolted up and bled out good but no stopping the car with them jet That car has 10.5x2.5 drum brakes on the car so hopefully it will stop good for a heavy old street car
Didn't SSBC go out of business?

WHy have all that boat anchor cast iron contributing to unsprung weight? With Wilwood aluminum calipers and hubs, THe improvements in ride is noticeable. And of course it helps performance.

For street, I doubt you'll notice the weight difference. With older cars becoming more rare in wrecking yards, I'd look at the Scarebird brackets and source your own parts.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=158