4" stroke windage tray fitment

360 stroker. will the std windage tray used with the 4 main bolts with the long shoulders fit? Were there 2 different windage trays? thank you for your time.

Depends on how mucc stroke.

There were two windage trays in production, when the 360 came along the spacing between the main bolts was different so they made a windage tray with that spacing. The aftermarket ones generally just use an oval hole to accommodate the two different spacings.

As with any windage tray installation you always check clearances to both the crank and the pan, even on a stock stroke setup.

4" stroke crank/stock rods. someone has a set of those 4 long shouldered main caps & I wondering if I should grab em if this setup will fit EDIT main cap bolts I meant to say

Every windage tray kit I ever bought came with long shouldered bolts. So unless these are even longer than those I dunno?

A 4" stroke is about .25" more clearance needed. The later MP kits that fit either style mains came with washers to adjust the tray height for clearance to the crank. I would measure the pan depth and see if adding another 1/4" would cause any issues. But I don't see why you couldn't just space it up more with your current bolts rather than buy some other ones.

The stock 360 windage tray will work fine with a 4.0 inch Mopar brand stroker crank with decent forged steel after market rods
I'm not sure about the same size aluminum rods on a stock rod journal 360 4.0 inch stroker crank fitting with the stock windage tray or not

Fwiw I had a Milodon pan and windage tray with a 4" crank and had to trim the sides off the tray as it rubbed when the oil pan was installed. You could hear it rubbing when the crank was rotated by hand despite it looking ok before the pan went on. Stock windage tray may fit fine? As mentioned check everything.

I will start measuring/checking. thanks guys

Similar to Neil's reply, I recently also used a Milodon windage tray with my new stroker ... there was lots of interference with the SCAT H-beam rods I used ... had to pound out and radius every throw on the windage tray... also set the adjustable height by using the Milodon studs into the caps. I spent at least 20 hours making the Milodon windage tray fit before I was satisfied... also the drain slots needed to be modified for extra rod clearance.

are those (4) long shouldered main cap bolts still available or is their a substitute?

...I was under the impression that tossing a windage tray on a 4" (or larger) stroker setup was a bad idea...meaning, you would gain much more by going to a deeper pan instead. No hard evidence, just reading the on-line stuff, but that seems to have been the general common thread.

I am curious, b/c I have all the parts here to toss a windage tray in my 408 build, although based on what I previously found when re-thinking this approach I gave up on that idea.

I forgot to mention that I like and build crankshaft scrapers for all my motors, BB, SB and hemi, that will be shifted above 6000 RPM
I shoot for .030 to no more than .060 clearances on steel rod motors, more like .090 on aluminum rod motors at room temps between 60 to 90 degrees F

I havent yet read anything yea or nay about em on a 4" stroker but I will check further. yes crank scrapers get good reviews & I had forgotten all about em, thank you

I used a MP tray kit on my 318/390 Stroker. Took a bit of massaging with the stock pan.

I too was told, by my engine builder, that using the Milodon roadrace pan required no tray. I had bought the tray that goes with the LA roadrace pan and ended up selling it after I dropped all the other parts off at his shop.The bolt kit for that tray, sold as BBC kit, was obviously not needed either.
I believe he said that no tray was needed on deeper pans and it maybe it was because of the the baffles, I don't know. It was about a year ago and I've got CRS syndrome.

Keep in mind... IF you actually road race, or do HPDE/HSAX/AX competition events, then the constant throw and sloshing of oil within the oil pan -- stock or Milodon style of design (i.e: pro-touring), will definitely be helped with control by using the windage tray. In other words, IF you actually DO NOT perform hard manuevers with your car (road race, HPDE/HSAX/AX)... then you could consider not using any windage tray.

it'll be corner carving in the circle burner. I would likely use a stock type pan with some welded in baffles around the perimeter of the sump. it is a claimer motor so you dont want to go too crazy with expenses but with the virus I think there will be very little if any claiming.

Welded horizontal baffle plates (front, rear and both sides) in the stock oil pan will do just fine... it was the single best engine mod I ever did.. about 40+ years ago when I started autocrossing. Too bad MaMopar didn't have it as a factory stock design.

I started adding acceleration and deacceleration baffles into all the SB motors I built for drag racing and hot street driving after seeing a stock 1970 340 motor loose oil pressure at the end of the 1/4 mile after letting off of the throttle