Tie rod install issue

Ok rebuilding the front end on my 70 Coronet. I went to install the tie rod to the lower control arm. And the tie rod stud is spinning. It looks like the nut might be to the end of the threads without pulling the tie rod in. Because the hole for the cotter pin is higher then where the castle nut is now. Anyone had this issue. Am I suppose to use some sort of spacer on the tie rod? These were form a DR. Diff rebuild kit. The centerlink side had no issues. Thanks in advance.

The taper on the threaded end needs to be push down into the hole hard enough for it to be held tight while you tighten the nut, they are a interference fit that will have to be forced apart with a special tapered tool to remove them like you had to do when you took them apart.
Don't oil or grease those surfaces
Clean and dry only

Can you post a picture? From your description, it sounds like you have the nut all the way down to the end of the threads but the tie rod is still loose in the LBJ. If that's the case, you might have an incorrect part.

Or a worn socket that can happen if a car has been driven for an extended period with a loose nut on the stud

I have seen older NOS tie rod end packages that included a flat washer, with instructions that said to only use the washer if it had one on it before. Evidently there were some ball joints, centerlinks, etc. with OS holes on some cars.

give it a smack on the bottom side of the tie rod to seat the taper then tighten the nut. or at least run the nut off and see if your out of threads.

If the nut is bottoming out and not tightening the tie rod in the tapered end, you will need a washer/spacer under the nut. If you can't locate an oem washer/spacer, you may get by with a grade 8 washer. Be sure you get one with a large enough hole to fit down over at least the top 1/2 of the taper on the tie rod end. The washer will go between the top of the tapered part and the bottom side of the nut. Gene

OK finally got back out to see what's going on. It looks like I ran the nut to the end of the threads. I figured that due to where the cotter pin hole was in relation to where the nut was. Both the tie rod and lower ball joint are new. Is it ok to put a small spacer on the nut side to tighten it to spec? I hate doing this. I guess I could try a different tie rod end. Ideas? Thanks

Looks like the rod ends are being consolidated by the manufactures like the ball joints. I found out a few years ago that the manufactures started using the tapered studs from other applications so they could cut down logistic/maunfacturing costs. What you have to do is put washer/washers under the nut now as the studs can be longer and the nut goes past where the pin gets set. There is a possibility that your center link had enlarged holes but it sounds more like parts issue. Another discovery I made on the ball joints was that the stud length could be different box to box or manufacture to manufacture which made it necessary to verify the stud length on the joints if you were replacing them as singles or pairs.

Usually the ones that are like that come with washers for under the nuts.

Yup. Plus I found on the ball joints that some were a different length above the taper. Kind of like the Howe or QA1 circle track units though not loose like them.

Sorry if this is a silly question, but have you called Cass (Dr. Diff) yet?

No I haven't. I in no means meant to say it's Dr. Diffs fault. Or complain about him. I just mentioned that just in case someone had a similar issue with his tie rods. I'll just try to find a washer that will work.

Looks like the metal washer from the idler arm will be about perfect. Does anyone just sell the idler arm washer? As I only had one spare.

I am not saying that either The point I was trying to make is that since he sells the tie rods, he has probably seen this before and will help you out!

Just an update. Used a grade 8 washer to allow it to tighten without running out of threads. The pass side went together fine with no need for the washer. So My guess is the lower ball joint taper was a little loose on that side. Do you think I'll have any issues with the tie rod being about 1/4 further up in the ball joint? Binding? Thanks

nothing to worry about if the tie rod stud is tight in the taper.

Exactly. Even the washers in the box might not be hardened, and the nut will just dig through it, and you'll never get it torqued to spec.