Xe262 spring question

Just stuck a xe262 in my 440 and it’s hasn’t been through break in. Have comp 911 springs but am told they are to stiff for break in. I have a set of stealth heads coming and was wondering if I can just use the springs that come on them for break in without doing a bunch of spring swaps. Pics attached with info on the two spring specs.

According to comp, neither will work.

"Always remove inner valve springs from dual valve springs or use low load springs (110-120lbs. seat load and 260-270lbs. open load) in place of higher load springs during break-in. In addition, COMP Cams® offers low ratio break-in rocker arms to give you an additional measure of camshaft break-in protection."

https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-218-224-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-chrysler-383-440.html

Those two springs are very similar in their specs. They will both be about 300 lb or a little less over the nose. Seems like either spring should work for the application, and not sure that a <300 lb spring needs the inner removed.

For some reason its stuck in my brain about flattening the cam. I know comp will say to do it one way incase they need to deny warranty but there does seem to be alot of talk on the "internet" about them going flat. I'm almost to the point of yanking it and putting it a roller just for my piece of mind.

The internet isn't going to warranty the cam regardless of how you break it in or what springs you end up running.

Comp's not going to warranty it if you don't follow their procedure, they may if you do. That cam is not really all that big, I personally wouldn't worry about it failing. I put the LA version of it in my 360 years ago with no issues.

That cam specs at max lift with 1.50 rocker ratio has less than .500 net lift, correct?
If so run either set of those springs and make sure to run the motor above 1500 RPM for the first 30 minutes
I've broke in a lot flat tappet cams, both solid and hydraulic lifters with less than 350lb. open with no spring changes or bad results . The key is to make sure the motor starts right away, NO grinding on the starter
Don't let it over heat also, I shut it down above 200+F and let it cool down to 140F before finishing the break in runs

Wiping a cam lobe can happen. There have probably been 100 pages on this forum alone with opinions as to why. Comp will gladly tell you to do 1000 things to help assure your cam lobe does not get wiped. But also understand that if you do all 1000 things, and you wipe a lobe, all you will get for you time, effort and trashed motor is a free cam, maybe.

....and I might add....that ‘free cam’ is an exact replacement of the one that just trashed your motor.