Fastest way to get "better" output is to use a relay to feed the headlights - I think it's 1 volt drop, reduces light output by 10 lumens ??? . . . at any rate, you wire the relay to be "turned" on when you turn on the headlights, and then have a feed from the battery, thru a CIRCUIT BREAKER (don't use a fuse, because when it operates, you won't have ANY headlight until you replace it. The circuit breaker will trip, cool down and come back on . . .), to one side of relay contact and then other side of contact to the headlights . . . really makes a difference ! And, you have virtually NO current draw through the headlight switch.
Light output drops exponentially with reductions in voltage. It is not linear.
You DO NOT want to draw power for the headlights at the battery on a OEM wired muscle era mopar.
I never use circuit breakers on the kits I sell. It's all in the design of the system. The bad side of auto reset circuit breakers, they will continue to turn back on and cook things.
Relays and a set of halogens bulbs makes a HUGE difference in performance. Here's an example with the same halogen lights. Notice the dash light improvement as well.