Stock headlight switch questions

Many of you may have seen my many threads about burning up starters and in dash wiring.

In the process of fixing all those issues, I have a question about the headlight switch.

For 20 years now I have not had "brights" for headlights.

The regular lights work, but when I hit the dimmer switch on the floor, all lights go out. Dash lights, headlights, park lights, everything. So....I simply drove with regular lights. I changed the dimmer switch, and it did not change anything.

However, In my recent search I discovered the in dash switch installed sideways and was actually making contact with my wiper switch. Maybe this was the reason why?

Anyway, finally my question. When comparing the two switches side by side, I see a tab on the new one (circled in red) is this simply a ground?

Thanks!

eightlitermopar

Just a ground tab for different applications.

I believe the circuit breaker is integral with the switch, when you hit the brights it trips, when the load lessens it switched back on. Bad breaker is what I've experienced in the past. 2¢

I am learning a lot about electrical here. Forgive my ignorance. Where is this breaker? Is it inside the switch itself? Will my changing the switch hopefully fix that issue?

thanks!

The breaker is in the switch. Headlights only are on the breaker. The park and dash circuits are on separate fuses that are controlled by the switch.

Sure looks like it's a ground, connection leads to dash frame.

Joe

that would be a ground tab for use mounted in a plastic dash assembly, such as a 74-78 C-body, or possibly an F,R, or J body.

Thanks for all the replies. I might add an extra ground wire just to be safe.

All the ground is needed for is the dome light circuit. Nothing else. If your mounting frame is metal don't waste your time.

One way to increase the brightness of your headlights, is to wire in a relay - so when you turn on the "headlights", it turns on the relay - and you wire directly from battery to a circuit breaker, then the circuit breaker to the relay contact on one side, then from the switched side of the contact, to the headlights. This way you get battery voltage DIRECTLY to the headlights. Voltage drop contributes to a drop in light (lumen) output of the headlights . . . and it is less amperage draw on the headlight switch, reducing stress on the wiring.

As to your "new" headlight switch, as was said, the circuit breaker is internal to the switch. The "additional" tab on your switch, is indeed an additional ground . . . good luck !

You should do some research about adding relays to power your headlights. That way the switch is only carrying the low current to the relays mounted on the core support near the headlights, The result is much brighter lights and a longer lasting headlight switch due to less current flowing through the switch

Gus

HaHa A12rag was typing the same idea but only faster then me

One way to increase the brightness of your headlights, is to wire in a relay - so when you turn on the "headlights", it turns on the relay - and you wire directly from battery to a circuit breaker, then the circuit breaker to the relay contact on one side, then from the switched side of the contact, to the headlights. This way you get battery voltage DIRECTLY to the headlights. Voltage drop contributes to a drop in light (lumen) output of the headlights . . . and it is less amperage draw on the headlight switch, reducing stress on the wiring.

As to your "new" headlight switch, as was said, the circuit breaker is internal to the switch. The "additional" tab on your switch, is indeed an additional ground . . . good luck !



Relays and more LED technology is definitely on my radar. As for now I am trying to track down an electrical short and just get the darn thing running again. Its been sitting for almost two years and I'm starting to go into withdrawals.

thanks for all the input!

eightlitermopar