Retrofit In Tank Fuel Pump

I'm throwing in the towel with my 1972 W200. Let it sit for a week and crank, crank, crank to get fuel into the carb. Has anyone retrofitted with a low pressure (carburetor) in tank fuel pump? Which one did you use? Anything special for a control circuit?

I have found that using NON ethanol fuel makes HUGE difference in my carburated cars ! . . . around here, that means using premium, even if the higher octane rating not required in my cars. But can let sit for almost a week without the fuel evaporating out of the carb bowl.

Just my two cents . . . .

Cheers

Hello, I've done a couple cars with an electric, low pressure, pump installed in-line that is actuated with a toggle switch. Turn it on when you're first starting the car. Not the best way to fix the issue tho. If your mechanical pump goes bad, the electric pump can pump fuel into the oil. The ideal way is to put in a retrofit style tank and in-tank pump. I'm using EFI, but you can get regulators to limit your pressure to 6-8psi for your carb. I got mine from Tanksinc.com. I assuming it's a "B" body and they do make the tank for it. Jeff

Holley has a big selection of retrofit in tank pumps but not sure they'll have anything for a W200.

If you use a return style pressure regulator, you can fit an in tank pump into your fuel tank through the stock sending unit opening. Here's a few pic's of how I attached mine to the stock sending unit. If you look closely, you can see the up-sized return line silver soldered to the sending unit ( note it is pointing away from the pump pick-up). Your return line will need to be at least as large as your feed line to avoid restriction at such a high bypass rate encountered with the low fuel pressures that you need to run with a carb set-up.

I sourced the bulkhead electrical fitting from Radium Engineering and the submersible fuel line from Harmon Racing Cells.

I run an EFI system on my '68 with a surge tank up front, so the pump pictured flows at near 0 psi and at full flow as the tank fuel circulates through the surge tank up front. This eliminates the cavitation issues associated with fuel slosh at the tank during low fuel level use extremely well.

I'm cheap and lazy, on my old carbed vehicles I just give them a shot of starting fluid if they have been sitting for over a week. It lets the engine run a few seconds and pump fuel into the carb.

Thank you, thank you!!

maybe we ought to ask why you want an in tank pump for a carbed setup? Plenty of external ones have been used for decades and way simpler to install.

That said, my 87 Diplomat had a factory in tank pump to supplement the mechanical one. It was a cylindrical pump that was essentially mounted where the pickup sock would have gone, then the pump inlet had it's own sock. It was locked up when I pulled it out and I had no idea there was a pump in there till then, so who knows how long it had been locked up, didn't seem to be needed to me.

Fair question. Frequently I don't drive the truck for weeks at a time. When I do it's either give it a drink of gasoline down the carb throat or crank for what seems like forever before it fires. Have replaced the pump, the fuel line sock, and leak checked the fuel line. I'm just tired of this and feel an electric pump will solve the problem.

No problem. I use https://www.deatschwerks.com/ for my fuel pumps these days. Look for one of the lower flow rated pumps for a carb'd application. This type of in-tank pump doesn't like to be used in a deadhead type set-up as they tend to build up heat in those applications, as the fuel flowing through and around them helps keep them cool.